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Bronco to purchase?

bmc69

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The body on the '75 appears to be very restorable compared to many I've dealt with. I see a PTO shifter..does it have a PTO winch on the front?
 

hyghlndr

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What does this mean "Hand Control Throttle"

Basically a cable you pull out that is like applying the gas pedal but keeps a consistent level of throttle. Usually used when the Bronco had attachments that needed powered - PTO winch, hydraulic cylinders, etc. In short rare maybe, special or of any real value = no.
 

Skytrooper15

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If I were you I would go to " Dennis Carpenter Ford parts " and get an idea of what all of the different sheet metal parts look like to see if you want to tackle a job this big.Download his online catalog for 66-77 Broncos and to me the 75 does look more solid as most agree on and if you can't weld now is the time to learn.I am not trying to slight any other vendor that also sells Bronco sheet metal but DC has a great illustrated catalog. Good luck
 
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BroncoBub

BroncoBub

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The body on the '75 appears to be very restorable compared to many I've dealt with. I see a PTO shifter..does it have a PTO winch on the front?[/QU

Looks like at one time it did. Not on there now though.
 
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BroncoBub

BroncoBub

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Basically a cable you pull out that is like applying the gas pedal but keeps a consistent level of throttle. Usually used when the Bronco had attachments that needed powered - PTO winch, hydraulic cylinders, etc. In short rare maybe, special or of any real value = no.

Thanks for the info on the cable.
 
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BroncoBub

BroncoBub

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If I were you I would go to " Dennis Carpenter Ford parts " and get an idea of what all of the different sheet metal parts look like to see if you want to tackle a job this big.Download his online catalog for 66-77 Broncos and to me the 75 does look more solid as most agree on and if you can't weld now is the time to learn.I am not trying to slight any other vendor that also sells Bronco sheet metal but DC has a great illustrated catalog. Good luck

I can do that. My sons the welder and I do some also but, he's a lot better at it. He's also the mechanic in the family as he rebuilt my Trans Am engine and rebuilt the 4 speed transmission.
 
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BroncoBub

BroncoBub

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Here are the Marti reports for both the 77 and 75. I went ahead and purchased both .

Comparing the two, the 77 has more options? Now, how much of those options are still on the truck? I know the power steering is not on it. Not even sure if it's original engine (drive train)? As for as that goes not sure about the 75 either. I guess its just a crap shoot.
 

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gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
As mentioned from here the 75 might be in better shape. But if you have to replace the same panels on both I would go with the 77. As long as the correct ps box is there, pumps are the easy part, especially with better options than the stock Thompson pump. I would pass on the tires for that price as well.

As mentioned the 77 has some items that are nice enough that many upgrade too. You get to decide which would be a better fit for you. Body work or mechanical work? ? Close critical inspection by you or maybe someone on this site would be in order.

Looking forward to what you decide to do.
 

Cortez

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To me the 75 looks better. The key areas that I look for is the body line seam above the rear quarters and the 77 was loaded with rust there. The second key location to avoid rust for me is door posts and if the 77 has rusty seams you are likely to be also replacing door posts. The 75 looked much better in both of those areas...which means you could slap a new quarter panel on it without having to replace the upper quarter or door post which both would add risk of having to brace the body so you don’t change dimensions. Also look at the windshield hinge area.
 

AZ73

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Definitely the 75. It has significantly less rear quarter panel seam rust.
 
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BroncoBub

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Looks like it will be the 75. Beside the guy with the 77 sold it without even giving me option after we talked for the last three days. Anyway, he finally told me it didn't have a title. the 75 does. Stay tuned another restoration thread will be started when I get it.

Thanks for you guys help...

Bub
 
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BroncoBub

BroncoBub

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Well, another bronco owner


How do you tell if a bronco was originally a half cab? The marti reports says it had a back seat.? The owners tells me it was originally a half cab.
 
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Slowleak

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How do you tell if a bronco was originally a half cab? The marti reports says it had a back seat.? The owners tells me it was originally a half cab.


Halfcabs were not made in 75. The vin for a half cab starts with U14. Roadsters were U13, wagons were U15.
 

Pops68

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It could have been converted into a half cab before the current owner bought it, so that is what he may be going by.

As Slowleak stated, VIN will tell you the true original configuration - ideally VIN on the frame, not glove box tag.

Tho, then again, body may not be original to frame. Could be U15 frame with a half cab body swapped onto it at some point in time. Not every frame and body on Broncos are the original matching set, as evidenced by reading threads on this site. Sounds like swapping bodies/frames isn't totally uncommon, primarily due to rust or accidents.
 
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BroncoBub

BroncoBub

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Well after settling on a price for the 75. It now appears the owners brother sold it to a friend without him knowing about it. He was out of town at the time. He told me he couldn't do anything about it since his brother took payment from him. Nice...Still on the look out for EB.
I'm also finding even at $9000-$12000 prices most of them still are pretty rusty.

Search on...
 

LUBr LuvR

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Hang in there, hopefully the one you get will make you glad these two didn’t work out...
 

pipeline010

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Nov 15, 2017
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Well after settling on a price for the 75. It now appears the owners brother sold it to a friend without him knowing about it. He was out of town at the time. He told me he couldn't do anything about it since his brother took payment from him. Nice...Still on the look out for EB.
I'm also finding even at $9000-$12000 prices most of them still are pretty rusty.

Search on...

ahh, that's a real bummer. these things are crazy hot right now..your interest in putting down cash I'm sure lit the fire for someone else in the race.

I think with your ability shooting for that 3-5k is the better bet. Simply find a clean frame and a title and go from there. Add a full body yourself, 4-5k if you can weld and have patience, 6-12k for already done if you don't wanna bother and you've got a rust free truck to do with as you like.

Absolutely rust free at 12k with a bucket of parts is way more valuable than a mixed bag at 12k. IMO anyway.
 
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