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To-the-Point Questions re Hydroboost

Jeff10

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
2,137
Loc.
Indianapolis
Hi Everyone,

I am finally in the process of installing Hydroboost onto my '71. I believe I have everything I need, and hopefully I have done most of the prep work.

I know there are lots of articles on hydroboost installs. (There are a lot of articles, and there's a lot of information.) I guess I am just looking for something a little different, so I hope it's okay to list my questions and hope for the best. (Sorrry if some of these have been answered already.)

I purchased an Astro Van hydroboost unit from another member of this forum. I purchased a straight mounting bracket so that the hydroboost unit is perpendicular to the firewall. Because of interference with the valve cover and the throttle linkage with it installed in a typical configuration, I will be installing it with the accumulator (I think that's what it is) up and to the outside. This will position the fittings for the hydroboost unit down, toward the steering column. (I could use an angle bracket; but, then I would need to relocate the ARB compressor that rests on the left inner fender now.)

Here are the questions:

1. Will I regret running the hoses down because of issues with changing spark plugs and wires? (When it comest that time, does anyone here need to actually take the power steering hoses off the hydroboost unit?

2. I am not sure that I have enough rod to connect to the brake pedal assembly. The following article discusses what the the dimension of the stock assembly should be from various hydroboost units. I am trying to understand how to set the pedal height for the Astro Van unit. I may need to use an extension rod. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131746&highlight=hydroboost

3. When I install the new power steering pump and bracket, should I just bite the bullet and remove the radiator first, or is it possible to do this work with the radiator in place?

Thanks for any practical advice that can be offered.

Jeff
 

phred

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
3,432
Loc.
Earth
1) you will need to use 90 degree fittings to get the hoses to clear the steering column and to make the sweeps more managable. NO issues with plugs that I have seen.

2) you will need to cut and fit the push rod to fit your application.

3) yes you can do the install of the pump and bracket with the radiator in place.
 
OP
OP
Jeff10

Jeff10

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
2,137
Loc.
Indianapolis
Thanks

Hi Phred,

1) you will need to use 90 degree fittings to get the hoses to clear the steering column and to make the sweeps more managable. NO issues with plugs that I have seen.

2) you will need to cut and fit the push rod to fit your application.

3) yes you can do the install of the pump and bracket with the radiator in place.

1. I have the 90 degree fittings. I have the hydroboost mated up to the firewall right now. I don't have the hoses fitted-up yet; but, I was able to install the 90 degree fittings on the adapters with no problem (althought there isn't an awful lot of room for extra clearance).

2. The push rod is cut and threaded. There is a female screwed extension that connects the threaded push rod to the threaded eye bolt that attaches to the brake pedal. I'm thinking the threaded female connector might not be long enough. Should the brake pedal be extended toward the driver seat as far as it can go for assembly, or is there a height that off the floorpan that I should be shooting for?

3. Thanks for the info on the general install. I just want to do it the right way.

Thanks

Jeff
 

kaw550

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
1,133
I had a lot of trouble getting one of the 90 degree fittings to not hit the valve cover. It ended up fitting in the the space above one of the valve cover bolts. I later put in new motor mounts and had to shim the flat bracket off the fire wall.

It works fine but I am not happy with it.
 

Oatmeal

Sr. Member
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
664
With my 351W it was a little tighter fit.

I had the machinist at work mill a simple bracket, more like a spacer, to rotate the master cylinder 90 degrees (and made a corresponding pushrod spacer made from a cut down m/c piston;) ) to allow me rotate the booster so the fittings wouldn't sit on the valve cover and have the m/c sit correctly.

Since my booster is centerd in the original m/c mounting hole, there was some interference with the throttle linkage belcrank.
I know a cable linkage would have cured that but........I'm kinda cheap.
I solved that by cutting off the arm and welding it back on in between the pivot bushings....tricky to do without melting them, though:eek:

I later ended up adding a 1" body lift to deal with some header clearance issues.....should have done that first!

Hope you find this helpful,
Hans

Edit:
I see that you have a 2" body lift so, you should have plenty of room between the valve cover and fittings.
 

red hot71

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2009
Messages
648
Loc.
kent wash.
When Ford installed HB into the late 90's mustang they rotated the HB so the accumulator was at the 11:00 and had a special master made with a up and down bolt pattern,and that give Ford it's best hose postion for the HB. There's a guy on here that makes a clocking ring that will get the masters bolt pattern back to the horz. bolt pattern (he also said he can do custom angles also,instead of a cross maybe its more like a X).

I guest what I trying to say is if you placed the accumulator at 11:00 and used a clocking ring for the master,and get rid of the stock accerator linkage use a cable it will fit in the stock brake location and have the hoses easier to get too.

When it comes to hose & fitting it seams that the perferd way is to us 6AN fittings. You should look into Banjo fitting with 6AN hose ends (which are low profile)combined with a 45* hose fitting that would give you 135* swipe and be low profile.
 
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