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My overheating journey never ends

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,916
The driveshaft still turns in neutral. Instead of being powered by the transfer case it's powered by the wheels.

/\/\That/\/\

I chased a vibration for years. Ended up being the CV joint in my drive shaft. I replaced the u-joints but it didn't help. It was the CV itself (ball & spring?).
 

57baja

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
239
Thank you!

Thing is, it happens in neutral as well. So that’s why I’m led to believe is either torque Converter or harmonic balancer. But that’s a separate issue ha!

If there is a vibration in neutral that is more than likely a dampner or the wrong one was installed. Thas the problem with buying a used motor you don't know what your getting without taking it apart. West coast broncos should have fixed the original cooling problem but nobody in theit right mind who has any vehicle knowledge would go from a 351 to a 302. Not your fault if you are not a mechanic but they should have know better and told you a 351 is better if it's already in the bronco. Thanks for telling the whole story, sorry this has been happening to you. I have been hosed before on a 45k dollar sand rail that I had built and am still paying for it biggest pile of crap I ever owned. If this shop can't help you I'll come down and help you.
 

nirvana

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2006
Messages
118
Loc.
PNW
Thank you!

Thing is, it happens in neutral as well. So that’s why I’m led to believe is either torque Converter or harmonic balancer. But that’s a separate issue ha!

or...the flywheel. most likely not the harmonic balancer or torque converter.

I am diagnosing a hot running 351 myself...what a pain.

But I will never quit!!! Love the ol' Bronco! Best of luck!
 

57baja

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
239
If there is a vibration in neutral that is more than likely a dampner or the wrong one was installed. Thas the problem with buying a used motor you don't know what your getting without taking it apart. West coast broncos should have fixed the original cooling problem but nobody in theit right mind who has any vehicle knowledge would go from a 351 to a 302. Not your fault if you are not a mechanic but they should have know better and told you a 351 is better if it's already in the bronco. Thanks for telling the whole story, sorry this has been happening to you. I have been hosed before on a 45k dollar sand rail that I had built and am still paying for it biggest pile of crap I ever owned. If this shop can't help you I'll come down and help you.

I should have worded that a little better, put another 351 in since that's what you had because yours had thin cylinder walls. Using all parts off your motor that were good.
 
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mduenas

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
511
Loc.
Los Angeles
Bad news, I have a valve train issue, or cracked head. West coast broncos won’t answer, truck is at asc. Looks like im selling.
 

57baja

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
239
Bad news, I have a valve train issue, or cracked head. West coast broncos won’t answer, truck is at asc. Looks like im selling.

Don't sell your bronco. If you are able pay the shop for work done and tow your brono home. Don't sell it is not a big dollar item to fix. I will come help you. My name is Joe give me a call 831 902 9110
 

57baja

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
239
Don't sell your bronco. If you are able pay the shop for work done and tow your brono home. Don't sell it is not a big dollar item to fix. I will come help you. My name is Joe give me a call 831 902 9110

I have a ton of motor parts and a 302 from an 84 mustang I'll give you for next to nothing and it ran fine when removed from the car. Don't get discouraged I am serious I'll help you out even though your in socal
 

Timmy390

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,609
Loc.
Conway, AR
Bad news, I have a valve train issue, or cracked head. West coast broncos won’t answer, truck is at asc. Looks like im selling.

That sucks. A cracked head is not that bad. I went through dealing with one on my W build. Find a yard and pull a set of heads or go aluminum aftermarket. I went with P heads. New springs and lapped the valves. Had the machine shop resurface and check for cracks. Slapped them on and all was good.

I feel your frustrations but selling is not the answer IMO.

Tim
 

36Fan

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Full Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2017
Messages
238
Find out exactly what is damaged and go from there, replacing a head isn't that bad if that's what it is.
 
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mduenas

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
511
Loc.
Los Angeles
Find out exactly what is damaged and go from there, replacing a head isn't that bad if that's what it is.

To find out 100% what it is, involves a lot of labor, I had to take the truck. It drives, I just can’t stop at a light or in traffic really. They did a vacuum test, and the needle would find a happy place, be constant, and then it would shake and not go constant again. So to pull it all apart and find the vacuum leak, would be very cost heavy. So to their conclusion, it is a cracked head, or stuck valve or bad valve, and the engine at that point to get going the same, is about the cost of a new crate motor.
 

nirvana

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2006
Messages
118
Loc.
PNW
There are some seriously Great people here!!!

Take Baja up on his offer, It would not take but a few hours to pull the heads and replace them. especially since it has recently been apart. Hang in there!
 

ChrisC74

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
901
Could the vibration not be the wrong balancer?? That would happen in neutral.

I would work with Joe.

If you need them I have a good set of P heads but shipping to the west coast would not be very cheap.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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mduenas

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
511
Loc.
Los Angeles
I called joe, we spoke for over an hour. He is 100% willing to come help! I’m so greatful for the community. Thank you!!
 

Pa PITT

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 15, 2005
Messages
11,252
Loc.
Stephenville TEXAS
... Yes I too say Take Joe up on his offer.Don't sell a good Bronco body .
Even do an event . Let Joe come one weekend & get it apart. In SO.Cal there are so many members. Then choose a weekend after it's apart to fix. Let the other So. Cal members know .. Whats wrong with it you'll be surprised at how many will show up just for a get together. & They'll all bring tools & extra parts ..Years ago this was a rather popular thing to do.Usually about 10 members would show up.
.... You'll be surprised at how the guys will come to your rescue . & Most will be good techs. With great tools.
....... Forward planning will surprise you at what gets done.
................It won't cost to try before selling out.
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,796
glad to hear you are getting closer, do not sell it. ever.

get another shop to repair and write you a note saying what was wrong with it.

Take note to WCB and ask why they sold you an engine that was "good" with no problems but really had xyz issues. Then file a BBB complaint, and mention small claims court.
 

57baja

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
239
glad to hear you are getting closer, do not sell it. ever.

get another shop to repair and write you a note saying what was wrong with it.

Take note to WCB and ask why they sold you an engine that was "good" with no problems but really had xyz issues. Then file a BBB complaint, and mention small claims court.

I talked with Mike about his bronco for quite a while and. I am going to drive down to LA and help him figure it out when he gets his bronco home. Why would they want to keep his shitty over bored block and take cash on top of that for a used 302 if the 351 was no good? Maybe he meant to say they would scrap it for him as it was useless and help him so he would not have to worry about taking home a bad block.
 
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mduenas

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
511
Loc.
Los Angeles
Any updates?

Sorry just saw this! I had got stuck traveling for work. I have not had a chance to catch up with 57baja.

I did have a friend who brought over different gauges and tools to check for leaks. We did not pull the motor apart. Just tested, compression, vacuum, Anne did a leak down test.

All looked good to him. He said the vibration of the needle in the vacuum test is due to what he believes is a long cam? I believe that’s what he said.

His opinion was I needed much more Airflow. He told me to get a 2400cfm derale fan. It was just barely thin enough to fit. And I will tell you, I am pulling a TON more air through my radiator and ac condenser.

I just did this a couple days ago, so I am driving and testing.

The fan turns on at 180. I sat in traffic for 45 min this morning and it was about 75 degrees out. And bumper to bumper traffic. The temp rose about 15-20 degrees during that period.

Before with the mechanical fan it would rise dramatically in traffic, and then Drop when I was moving. Today it barely rose in traffic, but did rise when I started moving. I have 2 gauges that read them same temp. If I start to get hot again. The motor will come apart. Timing just needs to work.

Since my radiator hose and heater hoses rise above the radiator, I think I may have air in the system, and I want to try and pressure bleed it.
 
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bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,916
If all else fails don't forget to give the Explorer Serp a try.

Fixed my overheating issues.
In horrible 98 degree 85% humidity weather, sitting in traffic for 20 minutes. Rises from 190 to about 220 but no more. If I raise the idle just a few hundred rpm it will go no higher than 205 degrees.
Success.

Explorer Serp swap is my latest favorite mod. The power steering pump kicks ass too.
 
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mduenas

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
511
Loc.
Los Angeles
If all else fails don't forget to give the Explorer Serp a try.

Fixed my overheating issues.
In horrible 98 degree 85% humidity weather, sitting in traffic for 20 minutes. Rises from 190 to about 220 but no more. If I raise the idle just a few hundred rpm it will go no higher than 205 degrees.
Success.

Explorer Serp swap is my latest favorite mod. The power steering pump kicks ass too.

I still want to do that, but cost of the set up $350 from a user on here, plus, alternator and power steering pump. Is so much more than the $100 fan, I had to give it a shot. But now my problem is different. I heat up when moving, and before I didn’t. Pulling my hair out again.
 
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