This is a simple step by step for bleeding brakes. You will need two people to do this or only one if you use speed bleeders like found here http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
Before getting started block the tires, park on level ground, use proper jack stands if removing the tires. Also brake fluid is very acidic and will eat off paint so use caution.

1) First off make sure your master cylinder is full of fluid,reinstall
cover this will help from spraying brake fluid all over your engine
and paint.

2) Next you will need your wrench, use a line wrench correct size for the
bleeder screw located on the back side of the caliper or wheel cylinder.
Also get a clear tube or something to connect to the bleeders to catch
fluid into a bottle or can.

3) Start at the very rear passenger side (farthest away from master cylinder)

4) Pump up brakes up slowly until they are hard. Hold them there and do not release.

5) While someone is holding the pedal down loosen bleeder screw. Pedal will
go down as fluid comes out. Tighten bleeder screw right BEFORE reaching
the floor and releasing pedal. This will insure that no air gets back in the
line. Repeat until you get a
good stream of fluid coming out without any air bubbles.

6) Recheck master cylinder to insure it is still full.

7) Repeat steps 4 thru 6 for the drivers side rear.

8) Next move to front passenger side repeat steps 4 thru 6.

9) Finally drivers side front repeat steps 4 thru 6

Note: The master cylinder rear reservoir is for the front brakes and front reservoir is for the rear brakes

If you have anything to add to this FAQ please respond below
By Kenny Ramsey (Skiddy)  

A friend of mine who is a ASE Master tech for Toyota showed me this simple way to bleed brakes on your own.

Like above - make sure you are topped off with fluid, and cap is replaced, and start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, working your way to the closest.

You will need a small bottle or Jar, and a length of vacuum hose that fits snug on the bleeder nipple, and is long enough to reach to the bottom of your jar.

pour some break fluid into the jar... 1/4 inch is probably fine.. you only need enough to make sure the end of the vacuum hose stays submerged.

crack the bleeder nipple loose, usually 1/4-1/3 turn is all that is needed.

Push other end of vacuum hose over nipple (make sure its a snug fit, we dont want to suck any air back)

Before continuing to the next step -double check to make sure the other end of the vacuum line is still submerged in the jar, make sure the master cylinder is full of fluid and the cap is secured.

Jump in the vehicle and slowly pump the break pedal a few times - be sure to use the full range of motion every pump.

Depending on the work done to the break system will determine how much bleeding will be necessary. You can usually hear the air making bubbles in the jar... When the bubbles stop, close bleeder nipple, remove hose, go to next closest wheel, repeat.

***Be sure to check the fluid level in the master cylinder many times during this process... if you suck it dry, you go back to square 1 and start over again.

I've used this method myself a few times with great success... Only once did I run into a problem... and that was because I loosened the bleeder nipple too much, allowing it to suck air between the threads...

P.S. if your lucky enough to be using a lift, wrap some bailing wire around the bottle/jar and make a hook so you can hang it...

hope this helps
12 Pack Jeff

Hey guys: Anyone ever had a problem with brake fluid coming out of the top of the master cylinder around the cover? During the bleeding procedure, when I go to check the master cylinder, there is fluid running down the side and onto the inner fender?