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Old 04/23/12, 11:10 AM   #1
ObscureMachine
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No spark. (UPDATE: figured it out)

This is the alternator on my rig;

A. Is this a stock alternator?
B. What's up with the wiring (see below)?
C. What do I look for at a parts store to upgrade to 3g. I've seen some Taurus alts, but there mounting holes are all screwy




This is where the wires connect to the alt. One of the wires is disconnected / broken and frayed. Just sitting there. RED ARROW



These wires just run into the wiring harness;


Last edited by ObscureMachine; 05/14/12 at 08:27 PM..

1974 Bronco Sport, 302, Some stuff, Some round things,
Some square things, Some rusty things.
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Old 04/23/12, 03:59 PM   #2
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Looks like a stock alternator to me as far as the wires I'm not sure. There are several donor alternaors that work do a 3g search. I ended up using a 95 ford taurus 3.8 liter and it bolted up with no issues.

73 with a TBP 3.5" stage 8 lift with 8 MX6 shocks. 302 w/ new painless harness, 3g, C4 tranny. ford 9" auburn posi rear with upgraded 31 spline axles, dana 44 with a lock rite, 4.11 gears with BFG T/A 33x12.5x15 Warn 9.5 ti winch
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Old 04/24/12, 08:40 AM   #3
ObscureMachine
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Like This? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...40_23521_4449_

But add a V belt pulley?

1974 Bronco Sport, 302, Some stuff, Some round things,
Some square things, Some rusty things.
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Old 04/24/12, 11:19 AM   #4
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here's a long list of donors for 3Gs on this thread:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...ternator+donor
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Old 04/24/12, 12:26 PM   #5
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Yep. Stock alternator. Should be 3-4 wires. Power out, field, ground, and some years a stator wire for the electric choke.

Here are some good wiring diagrams: http://seabiscuit68.tripod.com/

Also, that rubber block is just formed to the wires. They go all the way through it except for the ground wire which terminates on the lug that sticks out of the side of the rubber block and is bolted to the gnd terminal of the alternator. If you are careful with a razor blade, you can cut it off and repair the freyed wiring.

'73 in progress. 302, 3 On the Floor, 2.5" Suspension, 33's, 4.11:1
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Old 04/24/12, 10:11 PM   #6
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So this is for a 94 Mustang V8, which is on the list of donors. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...39_23521_4449_
So,

1. Will it bolt up like the stock one, or will I need some modification?
2. I would wire it based on all the 3g installation diagrams, using a Mega Fuse? http://www.bcbroncos.com/3G%203%20wi...ter%20mark.pdf

Looking for easy. And don't want to go pickin.

thanks,

-jim

1974 Bronco Sport, 302, Some stuff, Some round things,
Some square things, Some rusty things.
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Old 05/03/12, 03:45 PM   #7
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Alternator is dead. I've decided to buy one from RJM (I think). Will the pulley on my stock alternator work on the 3g? If not, does typical parts place have them, and is there a best size to get?

thanks!

1974 Bronco Sport, 302, Some stuff, Some round things,
Some square things, Some rusty things.
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Old 05/03/12, 10:43 PM   #8
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the stock bronco pulley will swap over
you do not use the fan blade from the stock alt
save the serp pulley just in case you ever swap front dress

Its a Bronco thing ...only you would know
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Old 05/04/12, 01:24 AM   #9
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I am right in the middle of doing this now. I got mine (95 Taurus 3.8 130 amp 3g) brand new from alternator pros in AZ for $123.99 and free shipping(based on a recommendation from Motoman on here). I know enough to get myself into trouble so I posted this thread which really helped me understand...especially the BC Bronco wiring diagram. (courtesy of 70_Steve).
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=205140

Hope that helps...good luck.

Last edited by tw322; 05/04/12 at 06:17 AM..

1972 351,AOD,4 disc PB, 9" and 44 w/detroit lockers
I can sure take it apart like a pro...it's the putting it back together that's problematic.
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Old 05/04/12, 06:47 AM   #10
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Thanks! That helps.

Is there anything VR related that I should keep? Any wires? Or just chuck the whole thing?

1974 Bronco Sport, 302, Some stuff, Some round things,
Some square things, Some rusty things.
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Old 05/04/12, 07:18 AM   #11
tw322
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They advised that the 3g alternator is internally regulated and to dump the VR completely.

1972 351,AOD,4 disc PB, 9" and 44 w/detroit lockers
I can sure take it apart like a pro...it's the putting it back together that's problematic.
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Old 05/04/12, 07:31 AM   #12
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I think I'm most excited about the 3g upgrade because it will clean up my firewall!

1974 Bronco Sport, 302, Some stuff, Some round things,
Some square things, Some rusty things.
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Old 05/04/12, 07:44 AM   #13
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Sorry, just read this thread this morning.

Yes, the stock pulley will swap over. But you might experience some belt squeal on startup. The stock pulley doesn't have quite enough surface area for the belt to drive the alternator when it's putting out anywhere close to full current, as it might on startup.

The 3G is internally regulated so yes, you can dump the stock voltage regulator. If you're following the wiring diagram on BCBronco's or RJMs site, the alternator will require a Hot-In-Run connection. That will be the Green w/Red Stripe wire (904), currently wired to the stock voltage regulator.

The other question should be "What do I do with that big-a$$ black w/yellow stripe wire (37) currently connected to my stock alternator?" That wire is one end of a loop that starts at the alternator, goes into the cabin behind the dash, through the ammeter, has several splices/connections to power the entire Bronco, the goes back out as a black wire (38) to a fuseable link at the BAT+ side of the starter solenoid. Couple possible things to do.

1. Cap off the wire and forget about it.

2. Connect the Black w/Yellow stripe (37) to the Black (38) wire at the fuseable link.

My Bronco had the fuseable link replaced with a circuit breaker. So one end of the circuit breaker is connected to the BAT+ side of the solenoid and the other is connected to the big Black wire (38). I tied the black w/yellow wire (37) to the circuit breaker along with the Black (38) wire, so I now have both ends of the loop able to supply power to the Bronco.

Also, one last note, if you haven't seen this in othe 3G threads. You ammeter will no longer function. You will need to add a Voltmeter somewhere to monitor the state of the charging system. The good news in that is you can get much more information from the voltmeter than you could from the ammeter.

'70 Sport, 351W EFI, NV4500, D20 w/Teralows, 4.56s Dana 44 w/Ox and 9" 31 spline Detroit, 35" KM2's, 3 1/2" lift, 2" body lift, 4x4x2 PS, some other stuff I forgot about...

"If it's got tits or tires it's gonna be a problem"
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Old 05/04/12, 07:56 AM   #14
ObscureMachine
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Thanks Steve. I didn't know about those wires. So, since my fusible link is still there on the black wire, I'll probably just tie 37 and 38 together.

I will also probably get the gauges refurbished at some point and have the voltmeter added.
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1974 Bronco Sport, 302, Some stuff, Some round things,
Some square things, Some rusty things.
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Old 05/04/12, 08:09 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ObscureMachine View Post
I will also probably get the gauges refurbished at some point and have the voltmeter added.
I wouldn't delay adding a voltmeter. The charging system is way too important to not monitor, even for a little while. I picked up a cheap voltmeter in a "bargin bin" at my local Autozone for $10 to get me by until I had a chance to do a more permenant installation. That was 5 years ago, and I'm still using the same voltmeter.

'70 Sport, 351W EFI, NV4500, D20 w/Teralows, 4.56s Dana 44 w/Ox and 9" 31 spline Detroit, 35" KM2's, 3 1/2" lift, 2" body lift, 4x4x2 PS, some other stuff I forgot about...

"If it's got tits or tires it's gonna be a problem"
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