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Old 04/23/12, 01:26 PM   #1
jdevon
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All I need is more time and more money...

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Hanson rear bumper with swing-out carrier

Hey guys.

I bought front and rear Hanson bumpers during the mass buy that took place 5-6 years ago, and I am just now getting around to installing them.

The rear bumper has the swing-out tire carrier.

My question is this: how does the "T" hand release that is on the driver's side work? I see that there is a rod going from the handle across to the hinge side, but I have nothing coming back the other way to attach to the actual release mechanism. My guess is is was a cable, but how (to what) does it connect to on the hinge side?

I hope that makes sense.

Thanks a ton.

1975 Ranger
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Old 04/23/12, 05:00 PM   #2
HollywoodC
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I've got the same bumper and mine doesn't do jack.
My thought (just a thought, not fact) was that a long rod extended to the swivel hindge where there might be a hole and when the carrier reaches a point the rod goes into the hole so that the carrier stays in place. However, no matter how far I go with the carrier, the rod does not get into any hole.
It just might be worth me finally making that call to Hanson to ask WTF?
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Old 04/23/12, 05:20 PM   #3
jdevon
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I called them earlier today. No luck. New owners as of '09, and they completely redesigned the swing out. They do not have any old parts, diagrams, or info of any kind. Nada. Figures....

1975 Ranger
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Old 04/23/12, 06:15 PM   #4
HollywoodC
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Well good attempt. Now we have to wait for someone on here to tell what the hell it does!
Thanks for starting the thread, I was too lazy.

Last edited by HollywoodC; 04/24/12 at 02:26 PM..
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Old 04/25/12, 02:56 AM   #5
DirtDonk
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Almost stopped reading threads a few minutes ago, but decided to check out just a couple more... Oh well, sleep is over-rated!

On the older models jdevon, there should indeed be a hole (more of a slot actually) machined into the pivot spindle, for the rod to engage when fully open. This locks the carrier from moving and you pull the t-handle to unlock it to close (or open farther).
When did you buy yours Hollywood? You saying there is no hole in the spindle, but you do have the rod and t-handle thingy extending through the lower beam? If so, might be as simple(?) as pulling the carrier and drilling a small indent where you see that the rod has rubbed on the spindle.

Did you receive yours in pieces jdevon? Or is the handle and rod already installed in the lower beam? If installed, is your carrier already mounted, or are you having trouble sliding it over the spindle?

The t-handle "locked-open" mechanism is completely separate from the actual "latched-closed" mechanism.

I'm not on my own computer (deader n a door nail) right now, so don't have any Hanson pictures. But if our back and forth descriptions don't get you there, I can surely dig some up.

Talk to you guys tomorrow.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" lift, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers.
Soon to be 5.0 w/ NV3550 and NP241 and whatever other parts are stuffed in the cab, storage room and garage, waiting to be installed.

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 04/25/12, 09:18 AM   #6
jdevon
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DD- your info actually helped. I thought when you pulled the T, it was supposed to unlock the lower. So I still need to use my finger to ulock the lower, right?

My handle, rod and spindle are all installed, I just thought they were supposed to operate a bit differently.

As for needing to pull the T to swing the carrier, I can swing it without the T being pulled. There is more friction when I'm not pulling the T, but the swing-out can be moved. Does yours lock tight at any angle when you release your T?

Thanks a ton.

1975 Ranger
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Old 04/25/12, 06:13 PM   #7
DirtDonk
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The latch to open it should be a simple straight rod with a small round knob on it (just adjacent to the t-handle) that pulls straight up to unlock.

Your lock-open feature should only lock in one position I think. Earlier models had two locations, and some one-off customs had multiple locations. But most (so most likely yours) would only have the one spot out near the max opening where your carrier will lock open just out of the way of a folded-down tailgate.
In theory, it should lock automatically when you reach that point. Then all you have to do is move the carrier to relieve a little tension, pull the t-handle, the close the gate.

The lock-closed latch ("lock-dog" in Hanson-terminology) will usually slide closed without having to manipulate it. Sometimes you might have to push in on the carrier to relieve tension to unlock it though.
Many people will just let the lock-dog slide over the top of the bumper and down into the hole to latch. This is fine, but it will fairly quickly wear through the powder coat, unless you stick some kind of guard on the top. So most people just lift the knob slightly to keep the dog from dragging across the top of the bumper.
I'd asked to make a little stainless plate that could be screwed on and replaced when it was worn out, but that never happened while I was there.

Hope that helps.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" lift, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers.
Soon to be 5.0 w/ NV3550 and NP241 and whatever other parts are stuffed in the cab, storage room and garage, waiting to be installed.

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 04/25/12, 06:16 PM   #8
DirtDonk
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Oh, and did you liberally grease the spindle before you put the carrier over it? Then you can use the two cap-screws to set the tension somewhere between light and slightly floppy, to so tight that you can open and close it by hand, but it won't rotate by itself.
Up to you.

If you received your bumper with the carrier already installed, I would go to the trouble of removing and greasing the living snot out of it.
Unless you can look in the gap and see grease, it would be worth it for rust-resistance and ease of use.

To get it off you need to remove the two tension screws and then wedge something strong into the gap to spread the clamp. Then you can wiggle the carrier off the spindle.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" lift, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers.
Soon to be 5.0 w/ NV3550 and NP241 and whatever other parts are stuffed in the cab, storage room and garage, waiting to be installed.

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 04/25/12, 07:09 PM   #9
jdevon
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All I need is more time and more money...

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DD -- you rock!

The carrier came attached, and I did lube it while it was on, but it's still tough to move. i will remove it and lube it thoroughly. I will need to buy longer tension bolts because the ones it came with are way too short.

As for the round knobbed do-hickey, I don't think mine came with one.

Here are some pics (sorry they are all sideways! just pick up and turn your monitor):

hanson1.JPG
hanson2.JPG
hanson3.JPG

And yes, that is a blue tailgate on a brown Bronco....

1975 Ranger
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Old 04/25/12, 07:41 PM   #10
DirtDonk
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Ok, this is why we like pics.
You have the slam-latch rather than a lock-dog type arrangement. So yours is a newer version. Everything I said about the t-handle still holds, but forget anything about the round knob near the t-handle. Yours won't have it, which means it's not missing after all.

You're expected to use your finger on the release, but I always felt that there should be some sort of extension to make that easier.
The others felt that the release was so effortless, that anything sticking out was a waste. I said that, with a 35" tire and a load of gas or tools, and especially after a few years of use, it might not release quite so easily all the time.
If it ever becomes a pain then, maybe a little rod sticking out will give you some leverage.

Either way though, I prefer your slam-latch to the old way. My old dog works fine, but I haven't had a chance to use the new ones yet.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" lift, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers.
Soon to be 5.0 w/ NV3550 and NP241 and whatever other parts are stuffed in the cab, storage room and garage, waiting to be installed.

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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