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Bronco in Norway

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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
Fintech is on! And I am crash coursing through the vacuum and pcv systems! The old rig seems to have been 50% connected on that front so swinging by the local store to get new vacuum hoses and pcv valve. I also after a lot of head scratching and a call to fi tech that I need a T/Y connection for the hose that goes to the HEI distributor. For 995 bucks fitech should include some connections IMO....


2752b52fac0f65ef02b2108d9ccfccfc.jpg



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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
Slowly getting there... new seats from TBP:

774afc5942a4dd49995161485c64dd63.jpg


And floorshifter installed!

713a4ce41473485814e916b20bb1814f.jpg


Still wiring up painless and fitech in engine room, hoping to finish up this week and then get the new tank and lines mounted and I should be ready to test fire it before finishing up some minor stuff :) would be sweet to get to ride it a bit before king winter and the salty roads arrive...


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krdale

krdale

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Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
i also had to take off one of my valve covers.. never done that before, curious if anyone has any thoughts as to what to look for, is there supposed to be small ponds of oil in there? have a look.. not sure what i am looking for...



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also the endless quest to make wiring look clean and tidy.. seems like an impossible task but slowly making progress.. is there any go to shops for claps or any tips best practice guides I should read?
 
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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
I keep working on my dear bronco but I spend more time in the garage than on the forum! : )

I installed my new TBP 23 gal fuel tank and fuel lines, curious if anyone has a better idea of “path” forward... I went straight down the inside of the right frame. Which is a bit counterintuitive as the tank connection is on the outside of the frame on the left side but I didn’t find a smooth way of squeezing them back under the frame... so I routed the hose in a U turn on top of the tank and sent them forwards...

Not a great picture but you get the idea:

5bd267ca68e99ed7cbf9348804ff2b20.jpg


Mounted the fuel filter mid frame so it would be easy to check/change. Realized later it’s right on where my exhaust muffler (?) passes.. so hard to get to without loosening that. But decent clearance 2 inches or so.

7f9de2ecd79fd851ed17f7c16cf7da34.jpg



As for the fuel hose and fittings I had a true nightmare getting those on.. but eventually found out I could boil them in hot water which helped loosen them up...

I also put back in my heater - absolutely nightmare project but got it in eventually. Realized I was missing the clamps for the wires so creates some using these (not sure what they are called in English..)

c17fb10e3c6b0622785070993b9dc093.jpg


Anyhow - put everything together and turned the key - all electronics worked, fitech came to life but car wouldn’t fire... though my reverse light was on... so I had flipped the reverse light and the neutral/park safety switch on my Winters shifter... so fixing that the car fired! But it’s running a bit weirdly as my timing is kind of off. Tried to adjust the distributor a little manually which helps but I guess I need to do it properly. But as my TDC mark is gone I have ordered the sticker kit thing that Nashville Early Bronco uses in his video.

I also have a faint clank sound on the left side of the engine block and the right cover seem to get hotter than the left after 10 minutes of running? Is that just how the engine is constructed with cooling etc and it will normalize or is perhaps one of my cylinders not firing properly? The sound of each exhaust pipe is pretty similar so appears they are all firing... My spark plugs are brand new so I will take them out and see if one of them stands out...

As for the faint clank sound I have no idea - maybe just an old engine? I’ll try find a local mechanic that can have a look when I have gotten it through the EU check.

Not sure if I mentioned before but I cracked my Alu top at the heater hose plug:

d28e9ecd6b61c265413fbc76dabfd03c.jpg


So I ordered a brand new one (only had stock color) so I replaced that yesterday and managed to be a lot more smooth with the RTV!

73fb45e794daf465a3615b289cc62407.jpg


So hopefully I can fire it back up in the weekend! I also put on my best top!

2ea241e9a40c648a7b42a16b09bfe228.jpg


Starting to look like a car!








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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
Lots of progress. Sorry about the manifold cracking, but frankly I'm not surprised as I've never seen a fitting seated that deeply into the threaded hole. With those pipe threads trying to push things apart, the aluminum finally gave way.
Presumably you fitting is not in quite as tight in the new manifold?

You should not be able to detect any major heat variations side to side on the engine. Especially by hand! Where were you sampling the heat?
But yes, if one or more cylinders are not firing correctly, that side will be lower in heat. Usually this is seen mostly at the exhaust manifold ports directly adjacent to the cylinder that's misfiring.

Hard to say what the sound is without actually hearing it. Plenty of odd noises potentially from an old engine. Most of them not good of course, but some fairly benign.

I would try harder to put the fuel on the driver's/left side where the factory had it. If for no other reason, it keeps it away from the exhaust system.
Will you have dual exhaust, or single?

The fuel pickup should be oriented to make routing the fuel line down the driver's side pretty straightforward. Do you happen to have pictures of the actual output port on the tank?

Good luck.

Paul
 
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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
Lots of progress. Sorry about the manifold cracking, but frankly I'm not surprised as I've never seen a fitting seated that deeply into the threaded hole. With those pipe threads trying to push things apart, the aluminum finally gave way.
Presumably you fitting is not in quite as tight in the new manifold?

You should not be able to detect any major heat variations side to side on the engine. Especially by hand! Where were you sampling the heat?
But yes, if one or more cylinders are not firing correctly, that side will be lower in heat. Usually this is seen mostly at the exhaust manifold ports directly adjacent to the cylinder that's misfiring.

Hard to say what the sound is without actually hearing it. Plenty of odd noises potentially from an old engine. Most of them not good of course, but some fairly benign.

I would try harder to put the fuel on the driver's/left side where the factory had it. If for no other reason, it keeps it away from the exhaust system.
Will you have dual exhaust, or single?

The fuel pickup should be oriented to make routing the fuel line down the driver's side pretty straightforward. Do you happen to have pictures of the actual output port on the tank?

Good luck.

Paul


Much appreciated comments!

Ha yes the manifold was a 300 dollar lesson in how not to tighten a fitting! I was a lot more careful with the next one. I also realized using a monster wrench shouldn’t be necessary... size your tool to the task!

I literally just put my hands on the valve covers - almost burned my hand on the right side (passenger side) while it was noticeable less warm on the driver side.

I will note though that I have headers that I found out are poorly fastened and even not secured at the rearmost set of bolts.. as the bolts used have “heads” that are too large and they are too long so the PO has used some sort of custom metal pipe as spacers so to speak.. I have a new set of headers bolts that I will install before I start the engine again...

I will also check the heat differential between the headers.

Will try take some photos of my fuel situation. But it was plenty of room to route it how I did on top of the tank and as I have dual exhaust I’m not sure it has any practical purpose to run it on the other side. The original fuel lines are a quarter or so of the size of these high pressure lines so they fit easier between the body and the frame on the driver side.




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migs

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 12, 2011
Messages
1,311
Maybe try to route the lines on top of or outside of the frame rail.
I ran into the same issue with the dual exhaust I have being so close to the frame, so my best path was along the upper outside of the drivers side frame rail. Plus I needed to fit an external pump and filter somewhere along the way as well.
Also, make sure your fuel line is rated for efi and I would recommend the use of fuel injection hose clamps, those look to be regular hose clamps in your pictures.

Be sure to fix any exhaust leak issues as it can mess with the O2 sensor readings, which could lead to frustration when you try to tune and dial in the efi system.
 

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
I literally just put my hands on the valve covers - almost burned my hand on the right side (passenger side) while it was noticeable less warm on the driver side.

That's a big difference.

I will note though that I have headers that I found out are poorly fastened and even not secured at the rearmost set of bolts..

This can definitely make a big difference in how much heat is generated per side. Even if each cylinder is actually firing, the amount of heat they generate is greatly skewed between them.

as the bolts used have “heads” that are too large and they are too long so the PO has used some sort of custom metal pipe as spacers so to speak..

It's possible they did that on purpose. Yeah, they my just have butchered it together, and I've not actually ever seen it done, but have toyed with the idea many times myself. I would have used thick walled tubing and welded the tubes/sleeves to the header pipe itself.
Basically the point is to move the bolt head out to a more "wrenchable" location, rather than down deep where you can hardly do anything about it. My next set of headers will be so equipped.
Just look at factory manifolds, or even the "manifolds" headers that Ford put on the Mustang. Very crimpled tubing and kind of fugly, but the easiest headers to install anywhere around.

I will also check the heat differential between the headers.

This is where the modern infrared/laser thermometers come in so handy. Just point-n-shoot and you have your numbers instantly.
Can be a real eye-opener when you discover a cylinder or three are not doing their jobs.

Will try take some photos of my fuel situation. But it was plenty of room to route it how I did on top of the tank and as I have dual exhaust I’m not sure it has any practical purpose to run it on the other side.

Yep, dual exhaust is the bane of our existence with Broncos. We've discussed it many times over the years, and many of us have come to the conclusion that a good, free breathing single tube exhaust will be better for a Bronco every time.
You don't necessarily even lose any power potential, as the right size and design single can breathe very well. Especially for our non-race Broncos.

Some of us have re-designed the exhaust around the fuel system then. Rather than the other way around.

The original fuel lines are a quarter or so of the size of these high pressure lines so they fit easier between the body and the frame on the driver side.

Yeah, but that comes right back to the exhaust itself being the culprit. Not necessarily the larger bulk of the lines.
But no problem really. As long as you are happy with the routing, and the extra length of tubing is not a bother, and it all works well, then there's no harm done.
Just a bit of extra work on your part for the re-routing.

All it's got to do is get the gas to the engine!

Have fun. Sounds like it's almost there.

Paul
 
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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
Maybe try to route the lines on top of or outside of the frame rail.
I ran into the same issue with the dual exhaust I have being so close to the frame, so my best path was along the upper outside of the drivers side frame rail. Plus I needed to fit an external pump and filter somewhere along the way as well.
Also, make sure your fuel line is rated for efi and I would recommend the use of fuel injection hose clamps, those look to be regular hose clamps in your pictures.

Be sure to fix any exhaust leak issues as it can mess with the O2 sensor readings, which could lead to frustration when you try to tune and dial in the efi system.

Great spot on the hose clamps, i had no idea there was a difference will get that fixed. I wanted to keep my hoses on the inside of the frame as i prob will run snow chains at some point and if they partly come loose they will cause havoc around the wheel well so careful about keeping fragile parts out of there. By going out on the driver side i felt the lines got a bit to exposed to the well...

on the exhaust leak - i am almost sure i have them but whats the best way to detect them except the obvious ones you can hear? like at the headers? i understood that its the leaks before the sensors that are key and not necessarily the leaks further back..

the other annoying part is that my sensor is on the side where i suspect the engine isnt running properly so its prob getting a faulty reading there
 
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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
That's a big difference.



This can definitely make a big difference in how much heat is generated per side. Even if each cylinder is actually firing, the amount of heat they generate is greatly skewed between them.



It's possible they did that on purpose. Yeah, they my just have butchered it together, and I've not actually ever seen it done, but have toyed with the idea many times myself. I would have used thick walled tubing and welded the tubes/sleeves to the header pipe itself.
Basically the point is to move the bolt head out to a more "wrenchable" location, rather than down deep where you can hardly do anything about it. My next set of headers will be so equipped.
Just look at factory manifolds, or even the "manifolds" headers that Ford put on the Mustang. Very crimpled tubing and kind of fugly, but the easiest headers to install anywhere around.



This is where the modern infrared/laser thermometers come in so handy. Just point-n-shoot and you have your numbers instantly.
Can be a real eye-opener when you discover a cylinder or three are not doing their jobs.



Yep, dual exhaust is the bane of our existence with Broncos. We've discussed it many times over the years, and many of us have come to the conclusion that a good, free breathing single tube exhaust will be better for a Bronco every time.
You don't necessarily even lose any power potential, as the right size and design single can breathe very well. Especially for our non-race Broncos.

Some of us have re-designed the exhaust around the fuel system then. Rather than the other way around.



Yeah, but that comes right back to the exhaust itself being the culprit. Not necessarily the larger bulk of the lines.
But no problem really. As long as you are happy with the routing, and the extra length of tubing is not a bother, and it all works well, then there's no harm done.
Just a bit of extra work on your part for the re-routing.

All it's got to do is get the gas to the engine!

Have fun. Sounds like it's almost there.

Paul

The bolt solution was done on purposes but it lacked the "rear most" bolt on both sides (they didnt fit) and even with the tubing it doesnt allow you to fasten it properly.. so i will see if the new bolts work. otherwise i think maybe rather find some HEX Key Bolts or something? seems like the better alternative? Would wonder why they dont come with that standard.. or are they weaker?

My exhaust is pretty rotten and full of random welding so i will have to replace it all together at some point, probably just buy a kit at some point.

i will hunt down one of those modern infrared/laser thermometers!
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
More time in garage is greater than time on here... Keep on trucking along
 

sprdv1

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Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Much appreciated comments!

Ha yes the manifold was a 300 dollar lesson in how not to tighten a fitting! I was a lot more careful with the next one. I also realized using a monster wrench shouldn’t be necessary... size your tool to the task!

It's always the little things :)
 
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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
New bolts 7/16 down from 9/16...

584ef6e548ceb5fab0de317c27933666.jpg



95e9545baf7b32e125f925eb8dfb8eda.jpg


Worked like a charm. Also found that half my old bolts were so loose i could unscrew them by hand...

Also pulled out my sparkplus after my test fire last week... doesn’t look like my machine is running very smoothly... take a loook:

5b2374577be645613373a7b7e86d09e6.jpg





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krdale

krdale

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Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
Here’s a better photo. These plugs were brand new before my first test fire

b5922ea65284241fb955e25ec66bc814.jpg



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sprdv1

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Joined
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Messages
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Yikes... bout over due to check my plugs as well I'm thinking...
 
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krdale

krdale

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Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
On my fitech - as I don’t need these two cables .. what does people to? Keep em long in case I need them down the line? pull them out somehow?

For now they are just curled up...

d85c7c4b1a29ab9f582ba4cb10c5f20a.jpg



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