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Water Pump Replacement

msommer001

Full Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
370
Hello All,
I managed to get my water pump off with only breaking 1 bolt. The top center bolt that connect to the timing chain cover. 3 question surfaced during this process.

1. To remove the broken bolt, I have a bolt extraction kit but I was also going to heat the bolt area to see if expanding the timing chain cover a bit will help. So use the reverse bill bit and the extractor plus some heat. I can see the back side of the bolt, I used some blaster and waited several hours but I guess I did not wait long enough. There is enough thread showing that if the extractor does not work, I can weld a nut to the broken bolt for some additional leverage if needed. Does this sound like a good plan?

2. I noticed that the distributor is leaking oil, if I recall there is a seal that keeps this from happening. I believe the original distributor is on so I am thinking it is the original seal as well. Can you share some tips to ensure that the timing remains up changed or post a video that is a good example.

3. Should I replace the timing chain cover or gasket since I have come this far? I have noticed the front of the block is very dirty and oily, not sure if this is all from the distributor leak or if there are other issues.

Thanks again for all the help.




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Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,835
That is a good bolt to break off. The good thing, it isn't in the block. Actually it is a strange one to break.

DO NOT USE A BOLT EXTRACTOR! When a bolt has broken off because it has corroded in place, the threads are stuck enough that the extractor will break off and make bigger issues. The good thing is if you screw up to bad, just replace the cover.

Own a welder? Grab a handful of cheap nuts. 3/8, 7/16, 10mm, whatever you have in the junk bin. Put that over the broken bolt and plug weld it. Put a wrench on it and snap it off. Repeat and repeat. For one you are putting a head on the threads. But you are also putting heat right into the bolt. Heat is great for breaking threads loose. And this puts heat right where it is needed. If it doesn't break loose after a half dozen tries, grab an ice cube and chill the nut as soon as it is welded, thermal shock.

The distributor seal, you are probably actually looking at the intake manifold china rail leak.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Heat the bolt up really hot and cool it off with PB Blaster then wipe it off and heat it up again and cool it off again with PB Blaster. Do this a dozen times before you even think about using the extractor. Be warned Pb Blaster is highly flammable as are most aerosol lubricants / penetrats, so no torch around the stuff while spraying and be pre-paired to snuff out any flames. wipe up all the excess before heating up again.
 
OP
OP
msommer001

msommer001

Full Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
370
Thanks for all the help. Finally got the bolt out. Looks like it got cross threaded. It damaged the thread in the timing chain cover as well. My plan is to clean up the damaged threads with a tap and die. In addition I was thinking about using a bolt just a bit longer the getting a few threads of a bolt on the back just for insurance. I know replacing the cover would be the right thing but with only a few weeks left of fall weather I want to get back on the road and replace the plate with some other motor work this winter.

Any feedback would be appreciated.


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Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,835
You mentioned the bolt passes through the cover. Is it possible to just use a longer bolt and a nut.
 
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