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Go Back   ClassicBroncos.com Forums > 66-77 Ford Bronco > Bronco Chat > Vendor Forum & Current Mass Buys

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Old 06/30/16, 02:03 PM   #61
DirtDonk
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I also think GravelMaker said it's recommended for one end only, and also not for use on the tie-rod ends at the knuckles for some reason.

It's also probably not necessary to use up at the top. It's the tie-rod that does most of the rolling anyway, and not the draglink. And lots of angle change up there that is desirable to not try to resist. Lots of stress added I would think.

You have an issue you're dealing with Mike? Or just curious more than anything else?

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

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Old 06/30/16, 08:02 PM   #62
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The reason it is not used at the knuckles is involved with the Ackerman steering angles all modern vehicles (since 1950 or so) use. When you turn the inside tire leans into the turn. The Cure would inhibit that lean to the point of bending the Tierod.

BTW, it can work well with the inverted T style of steering and with all the years on an EB accidents can accumulate and sometimes wander is introduced into the system by a fender bender you don't even know of from 25 years ago.

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Old 07/01/16, 07:34 PM   #63
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No not necessarily. It just seemed I had a bit of play up there. I definitely have some roll at the point the drag link meet tie rod though. I'm gonna give this a shot. Thanks though!!

Uncut '76, 302, 5.5" lift, 285/70R17, work in progress
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Old 08/14/16, 03:40 PM   #64
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I just installed the Cure, it doesn't look right. Should I open up the hole so the tie rod slips in farther?
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Old 08/14/16, 07:36 PM   #65
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Can you take a shot from slightly farther away to show the whole draglink?
Looks like yours is rotated slightly out of true, which is twisting itself enough to open up that gap. Plus yours might not be the same brand or rod ends as tested by Ruff Stuff, so might have a slightly different profile anyway.
But it looks like it could work if the twist was gone.

Maybe even a little judicious grinding of the Cure piece to allow for that angle if needed, but try to twist things first.
Since your draglink is likely an adjustable one, you should be able to loosen the sleeve clamps and rotate the lower end to suit.
Or is it straight in relation to the upper end already, and it just twists itself during movement?

Good luck. Definitely don't want that gap if you can avoid it.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

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Old 08/15/16, 05:04 PM   #66
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It needs to be tighter. Is the pin fully seated? That is definitely the way it is meant to be used but it is deeper seated so each surface are touching metal.

Either your TRE has a longer pin or the taper is not deep enough. If the taper is deep enough you can add a steel, brass, or plastic washer between the flat surfaces to fill the gap... Your TRE (not the Y link) appears to be a high angle variety and their pin is longer but the high angle is not needed their so I would think spacer.

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Old 08/17/16, 03:47 PM   #67
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I got a chance to work on it today.
The pin is seated all the way and the cure has some movement and I can even wobble it a little. I will try a washer and tighten it up.
Can you tell me which end on the drag link has the left hand thread and which is right?
Thanks Jack

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Old 08/18/16, 09:18 AM   #68
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The left side is RH thread and the right side is LH thread, don't ask me why...

Dan Fredrickson 916.600.1945
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Old 09/12/16, 09:02 AM   #69
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Tighten up the wander in your steering!

Dan Fredrickson 916.600.1945
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Old 09/29/16, 05:47 PM   #70
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Small things that make a big difference!

Dan Fredrickson 916.600.1945
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Old 10/09/16, 01:16 PM   #71
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What do you recommend you use to remove the tie rod ?
Pickle fork?

1974 Ranger
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Excerpt from the Baja Bronco brochure
"Baja Bronco's like an Iron Glove with a Velvet Lining"
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Old 10/09/16, 05:09 PM   #72
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Pickle forks usually do work well, also just using a hammer to shock-load the knuckle or TRE while applying a little leverage to the TRE usually works pretty well.

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Old 10/16/16, 02:08 PM   #73
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The pickle fork did a number on it.
Do you still think I should use it or is it trashed?
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Old 10/16/16, 02:29 PM   #74
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Well bummer. As you found out, never use a pickle fork on anything you hope to reuse.
Many a rubber dust boot has fallen to the superior strength of a pickle fork!

It's very possible that your Cure might still function in it's anti-roll role. But if it has to do any sealing (grease in and weather out), that part of it's life might be over.
Still worth a try, just in case it's still got some life in it. But it's looking sketchy at the moment.

I think Gravel Maker was thinking you were referring to the tie-rod ends at each end of the rod where they join the knuckle. Not the draglink at the tie rod.
I know that's what I was thinking at least, when I saw your question.

His other suggestion of the hammer-to-the-side method (not hitting the shaft, stud, nut, or rod end itself) to distort the tapered interface would not mess up the disc. So would have been a better method for the drag link end. At least as a first attempt.
If that didn't work then the pickle fork might have been your only recourse.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 10/17/16, 09:46 AM   #75
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Thanks Paul!

And that is all correct BroncoJack, the roll-control nature of your cure could still work, but if it cannot fit with the TRE dust boot (some do, some don't) then you are going to have a sealing problem keeping grease in, and dust/dirt/water out.

Sorry that happened, and I should have more strongly recommended the hammer method perhaps. Keep us posted on what you end up doing, and how well it ends up working!

Thanks

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