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Project "BOB - Big Orange Bronco" Wheeling pics addded

744x4

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May 31, 2006
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Taylors,SC
Damn you are pimping it everywhere.Just saw it posted @ oldbroncosrule.com also.You posted it before I got the grinder dust washed off.He He
 
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SC74

SC74

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okorangebronco - Thanks man!

We finished all of the welding on the 4-link today and got it all primed. I'm going to let the primer stay for about a week before painting it since it's cold.

Next step is the trac bar. I plan on using 3x3 square tubing .188 wall for a riser and going to sleeve it for a bolt all the way through. I'm hoping to get away with a straight trac bar to prevent having to pay someone to bend it (too thick for us to bend).
 

68 Broncoholic

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Lookin good. Any thoughts of bracing the upper axle brace off the rear diff cover? You can make a disconnect for removal.

When is this exptected to hit the trails for testing?
 

rjlougee

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Dec 26, 2001
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1,959
MAN, I'm sitting here looking at this and really enjoying it, nice build!!

However, being me, I have some questions.

1. Is the 5th link (aka Trac-bar) part of the Ironbender 4 link or an additional measure you're adding?

2. What would the numbers be (anti-squat, etc...) without it?
Joe
 
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SC74

SC74

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Lookin good. Any thoughts of bracing the upper axle brace off the rear diff cover? You can make a disconnect for removal.

When is this exptected to hit the trails for testing?

Yes, we have considered connecting the truss to the diff cover, just have not done it yet. It will probably be one of those things to get done in-between spendy $$ tasks.

First run is tentative for this fall, but it all depends on the funds as they become available. I've still got some pricey things ahead - coilovers, gears/lockers, gauges, seats, etc.
 
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SC74

SC74

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MAN, I'm sitting here looking at this and really enjoying it, nice build!!

However, being me, I have some questions.

1. Is the 5th link (aka Trac-bar) part of the Ironbender 4 link or an additional measure you're adding?

2. What would the numbers be (anti-squat, etc...) without it?
Joe

I'm not adding a trac-bar on the rear - I still have to make one for the front. I got my tie rod and drag link done but never did the trac-bar since I had to find a piece to use for a riser.

The whole 4-link geometry confuses the heck out of me - the main reason I bought this system from Jack instead of attempting to put one together myself. The more I read on the geometry and played with the calculator, the more I confused myself. I don't really know what the numbers are on Jack's kit though.

Thanks for the compliment on the build!
 

rjlougee

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Dec 26, 2001
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1,959
I'm not adding a trac-bar on the rear - I still have to make one for the front.

Gotcha, I thought you were going to put one on the back and really didn't see the need for it.

Thanks for the compliment on the build!

No problem, I love to see interesting builds!

The whole 4-link geometry confuses the heck out of me - the main reason I bought this system from Jack instead of attempting to put one together myself. The more I read on the geometry and played with the calculator, the more I confused myself. I don't really know what the numbers are on Jack's kit though.

I know what you mean, and even once you get so it all makes sense, you still can't get 3 people to agree on what the "RIGHT" way to do it is, or what the "RIGHT" numbers are.

If you wanted to give me the X, Y and Z axis measurements of all the points I could run them and give you the sheet.
Joe
 
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SC74

SC74

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If you wanted to give me the X, Y and Z axis measurements of all the points I could run them and give you the sheet.
Joe

Joe - I'll take you up on that offer! Once I get the body back on it and some weight I'll send you the measurements. You need all of the horizontal and vertical distances as well as link length, right?
 
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SC74

SC74

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4 Link Welded and Ready to Install

It's been while since I added some pics so here's what it looks like now. There was TONS of weld surface on the LCA axle brackets and the frame brackets. I will never have any worries of the brackets going anywhere without a plasma cutter.

I primed it all last week and let it sit for a week before hitting it with some gray today. I figured I'd match the front CAGE arms with gray.

Next weekend I hope for it to be a rolling chassis. I've got to figure out what coilovers rates I need to look for, so in the mean time I'll just weld a tube to hold the rear up. At least that way I'll be able to roll it in and out of the garage - something I've been hoping to do for a LONG time ;D
 

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rjlougee

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Joe - I'll take you up on that offer! Once I get the body back on it and some weight I'll send you the measurements. You need all of the horizontal and vertical distances as well as link length, right?

Mostly correct. The easiest way to think about it is to imagine every mounting point is a finite distance:
a. Forward of the axle centerline (X for calculations).
b. Outboard of the center of the vehicle (Y for calculations).
c. Above the ground (Z for calculations).

In addition you need:
a. Wheelbase.
b. Tire radius (true radius with weight on the vehicle).
c. CoG height, usually considered to be the crank centerline at the flywheel.
d. Total weight of vehicle.
e. Weight over front axle.
f. Weight over rear axle.

Here's a screen shot of mine.
Joe
 

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SC74

SC74

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It Rolls!!!

My wife helped me tonight and we were able to bolt the 4-Link in! It finally rolls again after a year!! ;D Well, sorta rolls - nothing but 2x4's supporting the frame until I save the $$ for coilovers. I'll tack a bar in there for the mean time and start on the body work.

Oh.. forgot to mention our other helper, our Chocolate Lab Trigger. That's him in Jessica's Bronco while we work away.

The one shot of it "stretching" is weak I know, but had to do it! It will have much more potential, just not enough room and jack stand to stretch it way out tonight.
 

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SC74

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Narrowing The Grill

The body work begins!

Really, the first thing I've got to do is extend the rear wheel well back 1 foot to compensate for moving the rear axle back 1 foot (really 10.5"). I've got some 12" sections from a parts rig so I'll basically just extend mine back 12" and leave the front of the well where it is. Once we do that we'll place the body on the frame and see how much, if any, body lift I'll need to allow the tires to move without rubbing. I plan on cutting the rear fenders up to the body line and making a "flat-fender" on the rear. We've still got to figure out how to do that and keep my tailgate.

Today we narrowed the grill. Considering what this rig will be used for, I chose one of my "not so good" grills to cut up. It's amazing how well a grill will fit into a blast cabinet when it's in 3 pieces :) The entire grill got sand blasted and primed. I've still got some grinding/sanding to do, but it came out really well overall. I considered taking the O and R out of F-O-R-D, but wanted to leave it so instead took out the blinker lights. Now I've got to find a thin and long blinker light that I can put under the headlight.

Here are some pics of today's work....
 

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crawln68

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Oct 8, 2004
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Lookin' good bro! I like the grill and the 4-link looks awesome too. What kind of coilovers are you going to go with?
 
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SC74

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Lookin' good bro! I like the grill and the 4-link looks awesome too. What kind of coilovers are you going to go with?

Thanks! I don't know about the coilovers yet. I'm leaning towards King, but then I hear that their customer service is not so good. Basically what I can get the best deal on when I'm ready! Any suggestions, for or against any particular coilovers?

I'm going to wait until I get the body and some more weight on the chassis to weigh it to determine my spring rates.
 

rjlougee

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Dec 26, 2001
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Thanks! I don't know about the coilovers yet. /QUOTE]

Having learned a couple of things the hard way, I'd suggest you make sure whichever company you go with uses fully threaded bodies.
Joe
 

744x4

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May 31, 2006
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Loc.
Taylors,SC
Now grind it down and dont f-up my welds any more than they are already,He He. Now the fun part comes trying to narrow the hood to match as there will be lots more welding and grinding on that mother with about 5 ft each side to deal with.
 
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Bronco Brian

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Feb 10, 2006
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The body work begins!

Really, the first thing I've got to do is extend the rear wheel well back 1 foot to compensate for moving the rear axle back 1 foot (really 10.5"). I've got some 12" sections from a parts rig so I'll basically just extend mine back 12" and leave the front of the well where it is. Once we do that we'll place the body on the frame and see how much, if any, body lift I'll need to allow the tires to move without rubbing. QUOTE]

Robert that thing is looking sweet
Check out Crawln68 build on norcalbroncos he streched this wheel wells also when you cut the hood it will grow longer. For the front is shorter by narrowing.

Brian
No EFI on the wifes rig yet?
 
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SC74

SC74

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Robert that thing is looking sweet
Check out Crawln68 build on norcalbroncos he streched this wheel wells also when you cut the hood it will grow longer. For the front is shorter by narrowing.

Brian
No EFI on the wifes rig yet?

Ahhh... hadn't thought about the hood getting shorter too. That adds a whole lot more work to the equation now! Should I bother with moving the rolled edges in or leave the sides a straight cut? I'd rather cut and re-locate the factory edges for strength (and looks). I guess I'll have to do the same thing for the nose now, but it shouldn't shorten maybe a couple inches at most I hope - regardless it's the same amount of cutting, grinding, & welding.

No EFI on her rig yet! I've still got to get a few more parts and my project to a good point before we do that. She's definitely anxious to get it on there though after having some carb issues on Saturday with it.
 
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