Hah! Got you fooled!
;D
Yes. Depending on how old it is, it's either the original NWMP, or the current Sunset Metal Fab tank. The strap retainer is the main clue, without anything to say otherwise.
I would not think so. It should be a different length main beam if I'm not mistaken. Check with BC before purchasing to make sure. They may have one with the proper sizing.
We offer the NWMP, or you can call Sunset Fab direct possibly.
Or you could go all exotic and get one of those tubular style that has no arm. But that might require more work than just slapping a new one in.
No matter what type you get, you should be testing it on the vehicle, before you install it in the tank.
We test all of ours to meet the Ford specs of (roughly) 70-10 ohms range. But as every vehicle's fuel gauge system might be different, it's best to confirm. You may have to make some adjustments to the float arm, the stops, or both.
Is it reading correctly now?
Absolutely!
Or at least test the old one. You don't want to have to do this multiple times if you can avoid it.
What's it doing now?
If you mean Centech, that should not matter. There is just the one sending wire and the one ground wire no matter what.
The correct style for the NWMP and proper Ford ohm range would be my first choice.
There are universal styles available that would probably be made to work, but 99% chance the one in there now is for a Ford. Assuming you had the tank before the Dakota Digital especially.
Nope to the FiTech. Should not matter.
Nope again to the DD since it should be adjustable to suit just about any sending unit range on the market. But since it's likely already set up for the 70-10 Ford range, that's your best bet in sending units too.
Yep, pretty much. Maybe someone will chime in with tips and tricks to make it easier, but you've got it in a nutshell.
Nope. Never just put one in the tank and hope for the best. Even the factory senders in the factory tanks did not read correctly right out of the box ever time. I bought mine directly from Ford and they read just like the (incorrectly) reading ones already in the truck.
Always test them outside the tank. Just connect it to the system, turn the key to RUN (don't leave it on after a quick test though, or you could run into trouble elsewhere) and run the sender through it's range while watching the gauge. A helper usually makes this much easier, but it can be done by one person in a pinch.
If it's not reading properly, you can tweak the stops and/or the float arm.
And it never hurts to test the float for leaks before you install it. I suppose water would work, even though it has different properties (specific gravity?) than gasoline. Maybe someone knows the answer to that one way or the other.
Before doing any of that, check any instructions included in case they want you to cut and adjust anything to length. The float arms usually are adjustable this way, but whoever you buy it from should have already done that I would think. We set them up for the tanks specifically. We just can't compensate for any variations electrically in your vehicle's wiring.
Hence the importance of out-of-the-tank testing.
Good luck.
Paul