Driver side floor pan issue

jason.k · Feb 19, 2018

So I replaced my transmission tunnel and brace that goes under it. Got the trans tunnel in and welded up. So I moved on to the driver side pan and got it fitted and in place and noticed it is not level at all. It slopes towards the door. I put a piece of tape on the seam for the pic so you guys can see what I’m seeing. Any suggestions?

jason.k · Feb 19, 2018

Sorry pics were not attached

904Bronco · Feb 19, 2018

So is it high on the transmission side because of the brace or because of the trans hup sheet metal lip?

Some of that could change once the panel is screwed down... What does it look like underneath? Is the panel laying flat on the cross brace?

Part of me says maybe a little slope out the door is good for drainage...

jason.k · Feb 19, 2018

904Bronco said:
So is it high on the transmission side because of the brace or because of the trans hup sheet metal lip?

Some of that could change once the panel is screwed down... What does it look like underneath? Is the panel laying flat on the cross brace?

Part of me says maybe a little slope out the door is good for drainage

The trans sheet metal lip and the brace are even. The brace its self slopes a bit as it goes toward the body mount and door. The brace is flush with the inner rocker as well. Maybe I can take some pics later with the floor pan out of the way. By eye the brace looks pretty level but when I put a level on it is shows it running up hill to the tunnel.

jason.k · Feb 19, 2018

Here are some pics without the floor pan in place so you can see the brace and trans tunnel.

jason.k · Feb 19, 2018

See if the attached this time. I hate doing this from my phone.

904Bronco · Feb 19, 2018

So if I hear you right, with the panel in place it leans toward the door. With the panel removed, the floor brace has a lean to the trans hump.

Check to see if the dimple they put in the floor pan for the body mount is letting the panel sit flat. My Tom's panel needed adjustment with a BFH to make it sit flush.

You could also mark on the panel where you will weld it to the body mount brace. Drill a few of the holes for the screws and install a couple of them just to see if it pulls things together.

jason.k · Feb 19, 2018

904Bronco said:
So if I hear you right, with the panel in place it leans toward the door. With the panel removed, the floor brace has a lean to the trans hump.

Check to see if the dimple they put in the floor pan for the body mount is letting the panel sit flat. My Tom's panel needed adjustment with a BFH to make it sit flush.

You could also mark on the panel where you will weld it to the body mount brace. Drill a few of the holes for the screws and install a couple of them just to see if it pulls things together.

Sorry if I’m not explaining correctly. The brace also slopes down toward the door. I cut the sleeve down on the brace where the body mount is so it would not interfere with the floor pan. The brace is high at the tunnel and has a slope down going to the door. I’m just not sure how to correct it.

Justafordguy · Feb 19, 2018

Kinda hard to tell what's going on with the whole Bronco on its side like that. ;D

jason.k · Feb 19, 2018

Justafordguy said:
Kinda hard to tell what's going on with the whole Bronco on its side like that. ;D

I know. How do you make sure they are right side up.

904Bronco · Feb 19, 2018

jason.k said:
Sorry if I’m not explaining correctly. The brace also slopes down toward the door. I cut the sleeve down on the brace where the body mount is so it would not interfere with the floor pan. The brace is high at the tunnel and has a slope down going to the door. I’m just not sure how to correct it.

Can you raise the rocker rear support up slightly > I see sheet metal screws in one of your pictures.

langester · Feb 19, 2018

I might be way off here but here goes. Are you sure that the jack has not let the outside drop to make the brace lean? How much of the body is cut out and how did you brace the area? Is the top still on the body? New body mounts or old ones?

jason.k · Feb 19, 2018

langester said:
I might be way off here but here goes. Are you sure that the jack has not let the outside drop to make the brace lean? How much of the body is cut out and how did you brace the area? Is the top still on the body? New body mounts or old ones?

1. The jack. I took measurements from the floor to the bottom of pilar where the jack is now before starting. I have the jack there so I can jack it up just a bit to allow room for the floor pan to slide under inner rocker lip where the floor pan welds to the rocker. Then once pan is in place I lower the jack back to the correct measurement. So the brace is nit welded to the rocker yet allowing me to move it a little to get the pan in. With the jack at the correct measurement the brace and rocker sit flush.
2. Bracing I braced the door openings on both sides. I braced the dash to the frame and I have two braces running across the bed rails. I started by replacing the bed pan and rear brace along with the rear wheel well extensions. That all seemed to go well. Then I moved to the front and cut out font floor pans both sides and the trans tunnel. My original brace was crushed and broke at both body mounts.
3. At this time the only thing cut out is floor pans. I did replace inner rocker. That is not welded in just sheet metal screws. That's the other problem. On both sides were the inner rocker, kick panel and door post meet where rotted out and not connected anymore. Plan is to get the floors in and then weld up rocker then move to kick panel and door post.
4. Top is still on.
5. New wild horses 1in body mounts.

jason.k · Feb 19, 2018

904Bronco said:
Can you raise the rocker rear support up slightly > I see sheet metal screws in one of your pictures.

Good eye. The inner rocker is just sheet metal screwed in because I have to replace kick panel also. I just tried to jack up on the rocker rear support and it didn't really do anything but it did want to bow the inner rocker from the pressure.

rydog1130 · Feb 22, 2018

jason.k said:
Good eye. The inner rocker is just sheet metal screwed in because I have to replace kick panel also. I just tried to jack up on the rocker rear support and it didn't really do anything but it did want to bow the inner rocker from the pressure.

You took jack measurement from old support right? That could be off since it was rotted. If your truck/frame is level, put a level on that support channel, place jack under said brace/supportchannel, remove the 2 screws holding your inner rocker and then jack up support until level, zip screws back in, test fit floor pan, trim if necessary... if you jack up that brace where your 2 screws are in the picture it should slide up a bit along the inside of the kick panel. If you have screws in that inner rocker take a few out so it can pivot a little as you mentioned you were experiencing some "bowing" ....its just a game of push, pull, move, trim etc...

Justafordguy · Feb 23, 2018

jason.k said:
I know. How do you make sure they are right side up.

You must have an Iphone. Take your pictures with the phone held horizontally with the shutter button on the right.

jason.k · Feb 24, 2018

Justafordguy said:
You must have an Iphone. Take your pictures with the phone held horizontally with the shutter button on the right.

Thanks!!

jason.k · Feb 24, 2018

rydog1130 said:
You took jack measurement from old support right? That could be off since it was rotted. If your truck/frame is level, put a level on that support channel, place jack under said brace/supportchannel, remove the 2 screws holding your inner rocker and then jack up support until level, zip screws back in, test fit floor pan, trim if necessary... if you jack up that brace where your 2 screws are in the picture it should slide up a bit along the inside of the kick panel. If you have screws in that inner rocker take a few out so it can pivot a little as you mentioned you were experiencing some "bowing" ....its just a game of push, pull, move, trim etc...

Thanks for the help. I took the screws out that held the new inner rocker and kick panel and jacked up on support brace. The problem is now the inner rocker is and kick panel don't line up very well at the bottom. The inner rocker is about 1/2 inch high on kick panel. Meaning at the bottom the kick panel sits lower than rocker now.

rydog1130 · Feb 25, 2018

jason.k said:
Thanks for the help. I took the screws out that held the new inner rocker and kick panel and jacked up on support brace. The problem is now the inner rocker is and kick panel don't line up very well at the bottom. The inner rocker is about 1/2 inch high on kick panel. Meaning at the bottom the kick panel sits lower than rocker now.

You're going to replace that kick panel anyways right? If so youre probably ok, if those two litte holes dont line up quite right you'll be able to drill or cut the over lapping metal so you can get your fender braces in down there. Biggest thing is just making sure that floor support is level along with your rocker panel. Once you got those where they need to be just make sure your floor panel to the cowel support channel is 21.5". The replacement parts are not perfect so don't be surpised if your off by 1/4' here and there. You can see in my pic I wrote the measurement down directly on my cowl lol.

Master Chief · Feb 25, 2018

rydog1130 said:
That could be off since it was rotted.

This is my thought too Ryan. When I did mine, I measured the passenger side from the body mount bolt to the bottom of the cowl because it was the "better" side. Then I measured the drivers side and found a 3/4" difference due to a failed cross member. That cross member carries a lot of weight and Ford knew this because they added a reinforcement around the drivers mount area. I found both the cross member and reinforcement plate cracked on mine causing the 3/4" sag.

So I cut a 4x4 to something like 21 1/2" and used it to support the cowl on the drivers side as I replaced the kick panel so I could tack it to the door post. I then replaced the floor pans, repaired the transmission tunnel, both lower A-pillars, and replaced the drivers outer rocker. Surprisingly, it all worked because everything aligned when I reassembled.

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Driver side floor pan issue

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