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1300 Mile Road Trip Planned - Prep Advice

willtel

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
593
In September I'm panning to drive my '77 Bronco from N. Georgia to the Outer Banks in NC and spend a week at the beach and do some driving in the sand.

My Bronco runs pretty good and I don't really have any known issues that should be a problem but I'm going over it now with a fine tooth come to make sure everything is ok. I'm currently changing all the fluids (the rear end is such a pain) and I recently went through the cooling system and everything looks good.

I've got to change a bad u-joint on the drivers side front axle and I have a bad solenoid in my winch I need to change out. I'll check out all the brakes when I swap the u-joint and pull the 3rd member of the rear to change fluids.

Anything else you would do?

Bikini Top by willtel, on Flickr
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Pre - flight check for me after 40 years of ownership. Rear axle bearings if they are original or over 10 years old. Check the drive lines for slack and lube the u-joints and centering ball.

Give all rubber hoses the once over and replace as needed with the best stuff you can find. I like marine fuel line. Loose exhaust manifold or busted exhaust hangers.

Pack front wheel bearing if they haven't been done in a while. Check shock bushings, torque rear u-bolts and lug nuts. Carry a spare ignition module and distributor ignition stator. Ohms check the ignition stator looking for 600 to 800 ohms.

Check, clean and tighten battery cables. remember that each cable has 2 ends to check.
Check standing battery voltage after sitting overnight before you restart if voltage drops below 12.5 or 12.6 battery is loosing voltage check the age of the battery. Check voltage of battery and then start engine and check voltage while running should be close to 14 volts. Check all fluids and dripping leaks.

Change fuel filter or carry a spare or both. I've gotten to a point where I don't trust fuel pumps any more so I carry a spare electrical pump I can splice in if need be.

If you have a bad front axle u-joint then you might as well replace the other side too since both u-joints went the same places and traveled the same miles. A front axle failure is so damaging when the u-joint lets go.

Where your going carry a shovel, jumper cables and a snatch em strap. sooner or later someone will need it.

Check fan belts.

This will cover 99% of road and light duty off road failures I have been a party of.
The rest will be your turn of bad luck, like when I had two tires fail off road within 100 yards. One failed for a good reason and the other failed when I used foul language over the first tire failure and someone thought I needed further punishment. So keep your mouth clean, your problems can get worse.
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
While you have the rear end apart to change the wheel bearings as you should, that would be a good time to put a drain plug and (maybe a fill plug) in the rear housing.
Making it easier to change makes it less likely to be put off till later the next time it needs it.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,833
Fix known problems.
Drive it.

For a few years I would do 1000 mile round trips to vegas and back and wheel while there. My biggest thing is make sure you have good tires. Just because they have tread doesn't mean they are good.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,033
When you have the rear differential removed, I would drill and tap the housing for an 1/8" NPT flush plug, as that will make future fluid changes a bit easier since you won't need to pull the differential. Otherwise, a reliable rig shouldn't have any issues making a 1300 mile trip. Pack the usual extra fluids and basic tools and you should be good to go. If your insurance doesn't have a towing clause, AAA or something wouldn't be a bad idea for peace of mind IMO.
 

72pabronco

Full Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2009
Messages
172
Hopefully you be there the end of the month. The Mid Alantic Early Broncos(MEB) fall cruise will be taking place the 28th thru the 30th. Check it out at earlybroncos.com
 

RT

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 29, 2003
Messages
1,030
And,,,you're good to go !
 

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Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
You also missed the c-clamp and a piece of 2x4 and a piece of heavy chain with cinch hook on the end. a super sized ratchet strap and good tire plug kit. Then you need a decent portable compressor. And a big fat empty credit card.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
Our Bronco has made trips like that many times.
My best advice is to give attention to normal maintenance items like belts & hoses.
YES, wheel bearings and brakes are important too, but less likely to stop you on the freeway.
It's a fact that a long trip always takes balls. No matter what you're driving. Things can go wrong. But down the road all you remember is the adventure.
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,491
You dont have to pull the gear case to change the dif oil. Just pull the pinion support and suck out the gear oil. Real easy.

Just pack the parts you think might break and the tools needed.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
AAA premier

Sure the 200 mile AAA policy is the best deal for us old car owners. But even without it, the adventure of cross country travel in a vintage car is a blast!
The breakdowns you survive turn into great memories and stories.
Don't be afraid. Do it!
 
OP
OP
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willtel

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
593
You dont have to pull the gear case to change the dif oil. Just pull the pinion support and suck out the gear oil. Real easy.

Just pack the parts you think might break and the tools needed.

Now you tell me...

I went ahead and dropped the 3rd member this morning. When I loosened the fill plug on the axle it hissed like it was under pressure so the vent is obviously clogged.

I used a Hi-lift to pull the axles. It was a little cumbersome but it worked without buying any more tools.
Getting Creative by willtel, on Flickr

Axle bearings and seals seem ok but I have no idea how old they are. I've owned it for 23 years and never changed them.

Once got everything out is is clear the axle housing has had moisture in it for a while. The fluid wasn't milky but everything above the oil level has surface rust on it along with parts of the 3rd member. The ring gear has some corrosion on it and there was a decent amount of metal grit in the bottom of the center section. It also appears I have 28 spline axles, I always assumed they would be 31.

Now I'm thinking of going through the 3rd member and adding a locker and doing some other updates. The rear brakes are also gone and I told myself the next time the brakes need to be serviced I will swap to discs in the rear.

This whole deal is about to get expensive.
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,491
Well you have a 77 so you should have a big bearing rear. Left eye Blind on facebook has a good kit for adding disks. It's a bolt on, you buy their brackets and you can get the rest at a parts store. Uses chevy C20 calipers. 3/4 ton stuff to stop those big tires. Cheap and easy. Or you can buy it all from them. Also if you have the axles out you might want to change out those wheel bearings. Easy now, hard on the road. They are at least 23years old. No EB ever came with 31 spline axles. Upgrade your axles at the same time you get a traction device / locker. Or find a used 28 spline locker to use until the upgrade.
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,491
The side of that truck is really nice. The paint job looks great.
 

Yeller

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
5,881
Loc.
Rogers County Oklahoma
The c20 calipers are awesome for making stopping power in 4wd. but for proper stopping on the street the pistons need to have a ratio of 1.5-1.8 and unless your set up is rear heavy closer to 1.8. As puny as they seem the explorer sized calipers are about the right size. Even with that you may need a manual pressure reducing valve to get the brake bias right so the rear does not lock up before the front. On mine I have the manual valve adjusted as far as it will go and the rear brakes are still slightly to strong but it does panic stops now without the rear locked up trying to pass the front. And am running the c20 calipers with 1 ton fronts
 

Speedrdr

Contributor
Learning Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2017
Messages
1,134
Loc.
Paris, MS
The only additional items I might add are (not necessarily in order of importance) roadside flares and/or reflectors, spare fuel container, fuel transfer device (just on the off chance you run out of gas) in case you need to siphon some fuel, a couple of GOOD flashlights, a few quarts of oil (don't ask me) and some fuel conditioner just in case you buy some crappy fuel along the way.
The main thing to remember to LEAVE at home: work!
Enjoy your trip.
Randy
 
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OP
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willtel

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
593
After inspecting the 3rd member it will need to rebuilt before the trip. The pinion gear has lots of play in it and I'm planning to refresh everything in there.

I looked into getting a loaded 3rd member and new axles but I don't want to run into any compatibility issues with aftermarket axles and the new brakes I'm installing.

I'll need to measure everything tonight and verify the R&P ratio before I order parts. This is the list I have. If anyone has any suggestions on things to add or can verify the bearing sizes I need please speak up.

  • Complete ring and pinion installation kit
  • 4:11 ring and pinion
  • Axle bearings
  • Axle seals
  • Ford trac lok rebuild kit
 
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