9" axle Blown; cost effective replacement? Help.

adamwhatley · Dec 11, 2018

Hello,

After restoring Land Rover Series trucks for many years to maintain my sanity, I recently bought a 1974 Ford Bronco, 302, Auto.

I've done power brakes, steering, heating, hard top, and fixed the various rusty spots (a few at least), but I noticed the rear end was acting odd.

With no previous experience in rear axles, I decided to take it to a driveline mechanic, who has stated that the axle seals are blown, the locker is torn up and pulled apart, and that basically it needs a new 9" rear. Quoted $2,500 to fix it all.

Given that I'm a poor high school teacher and that amounts to half the price I actually spent on the truck, I'm looking for cost effective (under $1k) options. Anyone have a suggestion or three? Thanks in advance, and I did already look through the forums a bit using the search function.

--Adam
Carson City, Nevada

Timmy390 · Dec 11, 2018

I'll start out by saying sounds like you were quoted the "I don't want to work on it" price. Then again, not having pictures of what's broken and not knowing exactly what "locker" (if it's truly a locker) you have it's hard to say.

Got pics of what's broken or maybe an itemized estimate?

If you truly need a replacement 9 inch center section know as the third member and a new locker, then that price might not be so out of line when you factor in labor.

Options depending on what's broken is to do the work yourself. I built one......If I can do it anyone can. There is no substitute (see what I did there) for the Ford 9

Tim

okie4570 · Dec 11, 2018

Agree with Timmy on the price quote. Ford 9 is super easy to work on and Wildhorses isn't far from you. Get on their website or have Dirtdonk help you put a parts list together for you. If you can change your own oil, and can watch Youtube, you can do it no problem.

Apogee · Dec 11, 2018

Considering I've picked up several used 9" center sections over the years for $250 or less complete that were ready to run, you should have plenty of options for less than $1k IMO. That said, it would help to know which rear housing you have (small bearing or big-bearing), condition of axles, condition of the housing, etc, as I would use this opportunity to upgrade to 31-spline, different locker or limited-slip, etc.

FWIW, you could have a big-bearing housing with the new-style Torino ends (2.00x3.56) since you have a '74 EB. Not a bad thing, just limited to the '74-'75 years if I'm not mistaken...sometimes misleadingly referred to as a "medium-bearing" application. Measure the flange pattern on your housing and report back as to what you've got.

jmangi62 · Dec 11, 2018

Man before I spent that much I would go on a junkyard search,shouldn't be too hard to find a nine inch since they were used in just about every Ford made in the 60s,70s and some 80s,good luck.

triracer67 · Dec 11, 2018

Replacing the axle shafts, bearings, and 3rd member on a Bronco rear axle is very simple, and can easily be done in a day. I got axle shafts from Rock Auto (they were Yukon), and 3rd member can be ordered from many vendors for well under $1k. The axle shaft seals are a few bucks at local vendors also, and are easy to replace. There is no need to replace housing.

Timmy390 · Dec 11, 2018

One of the vendors has a ford 9 28 spline with gears of your choice and an Eaton TrueTrac read to drop in (complete third member) for $1169 plus shipping.

Again, do the work yourself and save but that's kind of a good price IMO. The TrueTrac is a $500 item. I know because I run on in my rig and love it.

Tim

vintage bronco · Dec 11, 2018

to bad you are in Nevada I have a complete 9in from 77 bronco [ HD ] big bearing complete brake drum to brake drum 3.50 Trac-loc ready to install all new or rebuilt I would let go for $ 1500.00 even has new WH extended brake cables included.

Broncobowsher · Dec 11, 2018

Sounds more like the "I am behind on the rent" price.

$2500 would be nearly a full race prepped 9", not a patched together stock.

Get it home, pull both shafts, pull the 3rd member. Look through one tube and out the other. Looks reasonably straight, it's good. If it is bent enough to be a problem you will see it clear as day.

Need to know the gear ratio you have, as well as what you want it to be if a change is desired.

Need to know how this will be used? For a street cruiser a simple open diff will be the lowest cost repair. You don't have to use the factory limited slip, I actually avoid them.

Damage to the shafts and splines? Wheel bearings? The bearings are sealed and the axle seal is in the tube, What shape is the axle at the sealing area?

There are a lot of very affordable options out there. Even ones school teachers can afford.

spap · Dec 11, 2018

Did you drive it to the shop? I consider blown broken gears and not drivable if it has a factory limited slip it might not engage any more but you could drive it still. And replacing seals is cheap and easy till you get more of the budget
My brother lives in yearlington and he does mention the lack of shop competition which drives prices up

adamwhatley · Dec 11, 2018

Thanks

Like most unknowns in life, the problem is more scary in the abstract than in real life. I'll drive it home tonight and get to taking it all apart. Thanks for the information (I read all the responses twice) and advice.
Nice community.

--Adam

pipeline010 · Dec 11, 2018

Dude. I'm a poor high school teacher. If you put a gun to my head 7 months ago and told me to point to the carburetor in my truck or you were going to blow my brains out I'd be a dead man. No, I'm not kidding.

I single handedly replaced my bearings, races, and seals in my 9 inch. Total cost was about 50 bucks both sides. Haven't touched the carrier yet, but I can bet your mechanic doesn't work on old stuff. Find an old timer, one who likes to laugh and say "it's fine, man, just drive the damn thing."

You can handle it. I mean, people like to say "if I can do it anyone can"... I'm the EXTREME case...

bknbronco · Dec 11, 2018

if i owned a shop thats probably what i would charge as well....the local drive line shop in my town gets $109.50/ hour.

So he must have it all torn apart then already or did he put it all back together again?

Seals are easy and dirt cheep.
9" is a easy one to assemble. But to put it out there im getting a center chunk built by a race shop for 2 grand with shipping. Thats a Yukon housing, 5:38 gears, 35 spline ARB.

so for $2500 you could get the most bad ass setup cause 35 spline axles are another 5 hundies.....if you assemble it yourself in a few hours. stick with cheeper axle shafts and a center section thats not so extreme as my example and id think you be in it for much less.

marshall godron · Dec 11, 2018

Sent you a pm

gnpenning · Dec 11, 2018

Welcome.

As mentioned plenty of options and support here. Fair warning, we are not only supporters but enablers.

Post pictures, we love pictures.

fordguy · Dec 12, 2018

gnpenning said:
Welcome.

As mentioned plenty of options and support here. Fair warning, we are not only supporters but enablers.

Post pictures, we love pictures.

yeah that is the way to treat an addict lol

Timmy390 · Dec 12, 2018

fordguy said:
yeah that is the way to treat an addict lol

Rehab is for quitters........

Tim

9" axle Blown; cost effective replacement? Help.

adamwhatley

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Timmy390

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okie4570

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Apogee

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jmangi62

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triracer67

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spap

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