Looking for advice - On Fence About Beginning 1st Bronco Restoration Project

Cmbeams · Oct 15, 2018

New to this site and really enjoying it - great site and contributors all around. I just moved to the Grand Rapids, Michigan area and have decided I want, and with the snow here, could use a 1st Gen Bronco. I've owned 2 CJ-5s and 2 '72 Blazers in my time, but always wanted a Bronco like my high school buddy's had... which I worked on with them repairing most anything outside of the transmission and trans case, so I have a decent handle on what I'm getting into. That being said, I would like a little advice on my thoughts here before I jump in .... I'd like to find something between 5-10 Gs that runs, that I could get a good paint job on (nothing perfect, but a solid job that may require a little body work or new panels installed), get the engine running really good (not perfect, maybe a little smoke, maybe a few drops of oil, but solid) and perhaps get the seats reupholstered, once again, nothing perfect, but definitely nice. Something I wouldn't be afraid to drive to the lakefront or into the Upper Penisula (roughly 30 miles and 300 respectively) as long as I put a qt.in her every so often. All for 10-15 Gs for a total of 20Gs. And at the end of the day, something I could get a thumbs up on pulling into NAPA and I could appraise at 25. With kids, I'm limited as to my input and would have to farm this work out to vendors. Possible?

Thanks in advance.

CB

SteveL · Oct 15, 2018

Dont want to burst your bubble but that sounds pretty tight without doing your own work.

DirtDonk · Oct 15, 2018

Hey Cmbeams, welcome!
I'd say it's do'able for the $20k to $25k total you're looking at, but like Steve said it's pushing it these days.
The funny thing about prices is that there in not a great deal of range between a basket case price and a decently built on. In other words, you can get a runner in great shape for $25k, but would not get much for that $10k at this point. You'd almost be better off holding out for that's had some work done already, but the owner is not able to finish.

Then again, I just looked again and prices seem to have gone up drastically in just the last month or two on craigslist at least.
There are two of them for $7500, but one looks extremely incomplete. It's a nicely uncut '69, but there is not much attached to the body to make one think it's not going to be a nightmare.
The other one looks like a runner, so might be in your interest range. But all the others that are half-way decent are starting at about $25k and going up from there. Even one listed for $120k in FL so might be one of the pro-built rigs.

The secret to finding one for that 10K that's still running would be to practice patience and diligent hunting.
Did you check the classifieds here too? Haven't myself, but it seem that many are more realistically priced here than through the usual sources.

Best of luck! They do still exist I believe. Just becoming harder and harder to find.

Paul

Cmbeams · Oct 15, 2018

Thanks for the replies, appreciated. I have been looking at the CB classifieds, as well as CL and other sources. One thing I don't seem to get is that I'll see a nice one, like for example Pop's rig for 17.5k sit here for awhile, and then see another, seemingly not much better then his for 30k or another that's really beat up go for 10k in an instant. Any thoughts on why.

Howard2x4x4 · Oct 16, 2018

Welcome to the Bronco Looney Bin, Cmbeams! And welcome to beautiful west Michigan! A HUGE piece of advice - Do NOT drive any sort of early Bronco in the snow here in Michigan. The road salt does not add flavor, it adds rust- big-time rust. If you can handle an early Bronco and a winter beater, go for it! I live in Holland and would be happy to help you in any way I can.

Fireball05 · Oct 16, 2018

Save up and buy something much nicer for around $20k. Then take as long as you need to putz around with it and build it up.

The difference b/w what you can get for 5-10k initial spend vs. 20k is pretty huge.

JaxLax · Oct 16, 2018

Cmbeams said:
Thanks for the replies, appreciated. I have been looking at the CB classifieds, as well as CL and other sources. One thing I don't seem to get is that I'll see a nice one, like for example Pop's rig for 17.5k sit here for awhile, and then see another, seemingly not much better then his for 30k or another that's really beat up go for 10k in an instant. Any thoughts on why.

I spent more than a year looking before someone called ME to sell theirs to me. I looked at/had members here go look at around 20 broncos in that time frame.
Talked a few times with brokers and flippers; so here's my take:

Be prepared to sit and wait, but have 100% of your funds available. If you want a $10k driver with minimal rust/body work; you will need to be ready to grab a trailer and respond to ads without photos on a weekday morning.

As for the difference in timing and prices: area of the country, collector options, and (yes) color preference can make things pop or sit. Also what the person (or shop) wants the truck for and plans to do to it.

The best thing to do it build yourself a rubric of what you have to have, want, and don't want. Write them out, then give each a general price/cost range. The biggest issue now is that a running Bronco (regardless of condition) can bring $7-8k and as you ad your 'must haves' the sale price runs up quick.

ep67bro · Oct 16, 2018

It can be done with your budget but it is getting harder ever day. Look everywhere and tell everyone you are looking. Word of mouth and this site helped me get my latest bronco I paid a very fair price and got a solid truck. Like other have said have you money ready and be able to go at a moments notice. There is a very strong market for original trucks now, so nice modified trucks tend to sit a little longer than a stocker that looks rough but maybe all original. So if you don't want a real stock one you have a better shot. Good luck

Cmbeams · Oct 16, 2018

Thanks, Howard, appreciate the offer and may take you up on it. Any advice on a good, reasonably priced mechanic and an auto body shop around these parts? No superstar custom whiz needed, just someone dependable, timely and with fair pricing who can handle anything from oil changes to your basic rebuild for the former and just does a solid job of patching/painting for the latter?

Cmbeams · Oct 16, 2018

Fireball, what are the major differences?

Cmbeams · Oct 16, 2018

JaxLax, thanks. Like the rubric idea... had plans for something like that already. Any idea on what a trailer would run and what I might need, ie, load minimum, winch req'd, etc?

Cmbeams · Oct 16, 2018

Thanks, ep67. Is there a point where a custom/crawler becomes to difficult to revert to original? If so, what is it, the lift kit, the paint job... Any idea? Also, at what point does a Bronco begin to be viewed as more than original and loses its original cache? I see these restomods going for huge amounts and they are obviously not true restorations. I'm sure this is not an easy answer, but perhaps there's a thing that most people would say tips it over into custom. Thoughts?

Pops68 · Oct 16, 2018

Take a ride down to NE Ohio and look at mine.....

I am selling, but not trying overly hard: no craigslist/eBay/bring-a-trailer/car trader mags. Those options may happen next spring, if need be.

It is not perfect, but it is a driver and I make no claims to being perfect. It hasn't seen NE Ohio salt either - will be garaged for the next six months if it doesn't sell soon. Trying to be as honest and upfront with all interested potential buyers as possible, as that is the way 'I am personally built'. Maybe that is part of the reason it hasn't sold yet?? I tell people the issues/potential issues.

A few people have mentioned the color being a 'turn off' but never explained why.

I started at $19,000 and dropped to current price after continual monitoring of trends on here, eBay, craigslist, etc. Which, I think is a very fair price.

Just checked Google maps.....you are roughly 275 miles from me. 4-5 hour drive.

green61bug · Oct 16, 2018

Restomods sell for a lot of money because there are a lot of people that like that look and always have been which is why so many have been changed over the years. Restomods also offer more amenities than a fully stock one allowing for new a/c, gauges, speakers, custom interiors, roll cages etc. Collectors want the completely restored to factory spec and pay BIG money for them.

I just recently did the wait for a year and buy thing. Only problem is that I bought the wrong one after patiently waiting just because I was ready to finally have one even if it wasn't exactly right.

Just know that any bronco you buy for 10K or less is going to be rusty (unless you get ridiculously lucky). Being ready with cash in hand to send and ship something from the desert is probably the best way to buy a fairly solid project. But you will have to be fast!!! After I bought the right bronco for a little more than your goal price, I still have rusty floor pans and something I needed to tune up. I am in it for about your end goal price now with everything I have or had done. I've done everything but the wiring harness and exhaust myself too but the floor pans are still rusty.

I think Pops truck is a good done to get in under your goal cost with a lot of really good mods. There is also a 75 in NC by Tarheel EB that would put you over your price but looks like a really good truck with a lot of originality. If I was doing all of this over again I would seriously consider buying that 75.

77RHINO · Oct 16, 2018

"Thanks for the replies, appreciated. I have been looking at the CB classifieds, as well as CL and other sources. One thing I don't seem to get is that I'll see a nice one, like for example Pop's rig for 17.5k sit here for awhile, and then see another, seemingly not much better then his for 30k or another that's really beat up go for 10k in an instant. Any thoughts on why."

To me, many of the items that make one go up in value is having more versatile driver and mechanical upgrades already installed so it can be driven more often and at higher speeds if desired. Items such as newer engine, trans, suspension, fresh bearings/gears/brakes, etc. that make it safer and more reliable sets the price point higher than one with a nice paint job but runs poorly or requires a full mechanical resto. Mechanical parts can easily be more $$ than the paint job, depending on how far into the rabbit hole you prefer to go.

I think the ones that sell cheap(er) and quick are more than likely bought by a builder that isn't looking to go all the way back to a factory resto, but wants the good bones to start with.

I've built mine so that most everything mechanical-wise has been upgraded, and I've left the body pretty much alone so I can drive it as often as possible, with no concern for messing up a brand new paint job. After reading up on here for all the tried-and-true upgrades from this site, I can crawl in low when needed, or pass at 75 if I want to, and everything in-between. Like said above, figure out what you'd like, and then figure out what that would cost to do vs. buying one with those options already installed.

JaxLax · Oct 16, 2018

Cmbeams said:
JaxLax, thanks. Like the rubric idea... had plans for something like that already. Any idea on what a trailer would run and what I might need, ie, load minimum, winch req'd, etc?

Uhaul std flat will work for up to 31" tire without too much excessive backspacing/wide tire.

You shouldn't need anything beyond the supplied straps and chains (or bring more if you have them) if you are buying a driver.

When I got mine, I pulled it home 6hrs one way on a flat uhaul behind a touareg. Knowing what I do now (about my vehicle) I could have driven it, but there's nothing worse than getting caught off guard when a 40 yr old seal gives way an hour or two into the drive on the highway.

But now do you have the tow vehicle?

pipeline010 · Oct 16, 2018

be smart about what you're buying and your budget and expectations are very reasonable.

it sounds like you're comfortable with body work? that will go a long way, as people will ignore good trucks with a bit of rot. Just make sure it's the RIGHT kind of rot.

I got my truck recently for pretty much exactly what you're hoping to spend; have only spent an additional REQUIRED $300 or so to keep her rolling and I drive it every single stinkin' day to and from work and anywhere else I want to or need to go. Altho I have spent weeks with it not driving as I self-diagnosed some fuel and ignition issues that a shop would have charged me in the thousands and still probably wouldn't have figured anything out. Only a few posts on classicbroncos forums and reddit did.

Check door posts and firewall/cowl for rot. Check frames for rot. Use a multimeter and check wiring. Do a compression test. Test drive, make sure it drives straight w/o touching the wheel. Cold start. Warm Start. Climb a hill and go down the hill. Find yourself a gritty one that's not afraid to look tough and, (my opinion only), avoid crawlers. Do the damage yourself.

18-20k cash in hand will get you a nice reliable truck.

FordFarmer · Oct 16, 2018

+1 on telling EVERYONE your looking for a Bronco. Be specific with the years, I told everyone anything between '66 and '77. People that I worked with and never expected to see again got a piece of paper with my name, phone number and "66-77 Bronco" written on it. It paid off when a very unlikely source made a phone call to a friend. Try to buy a runner. If you only have 10k but figure you can put $500/month into a project, set that $500 aside every month until you find what your looking for. It may take a year but then you'll have the scratch to make a reasonable cash offer on a rig listed for 20k that meets you needs/desires. Lastly, you mentioned driving this thing in the winter. I have no experience with fiberglass but it may make sense to look into that if your dead set on using it year round. Maybe you could get a running truck with a throw away body and throw a Bronco Designs tub on it? Talking out my ass a bit on that as I have no idea how much work or money that would involve. Good luck with the hunt.

Cheers,

Mark

Rustytruck · Oct 16, 2018

read all the builds you can on this site while looking for your Bronco. You will find problem areas in the body to watch out for and what it takes to fix it. best bet for a worn out rig is buy out west. Much less rust to deal with. Your going to go through the whole driveline any way so it doesn't matter a whole lot. but rusty frame and bad body and your in a big hole. Just make sure with your budget that the frame numbers and the title match. See it with your own eyes. Don't fall for the glove box door BS. There are allot of derelict Broncos with miss matched parts out there.

half cab · Oct 16, 2018

A vote here for Pop's rig.

Avoid a so called hack from north Alabama by the name of Dennis Burton. AKA socks n sandals. He's burned several people on here and ebay.

He was arrested but I believe he's back out so beware.

Looking for advice - On Fence About Beginning 1st Bronco Restoration Project

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