• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

chevy front power brakes to hydroboostFront radius arms

MonsterBIlly

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2015
Messages
456
I I have been wanting to get my alignment dialed in a little better so I have better road manners. Im not sure what it is currently at, However i have 3.5 inch lift but i did remove a couple leafs from the rear. It sits about 1.2 inch lower in the rear. That is how I like it.

I was told to buy the duff radius arm drop brackets that way I can gain more caster. However after looking around more, I am leaning toward the BC Bronco standard length adjustable up to 15* of caster. I think this may be overkill, however I like the thought of having the adjustability. My only concern is that their Arms eliminate the radius arm bushings and replace them with a hiem joint. WILL THIS ADD ADDITIONAL VIBRATION TO THE STEERING WHEEL?

I am looking for the best on road manners i can gain. I am also thinking about adding a anti sway bar with disconnects.

What are your thoughts and experiences.

Thaks
Billy
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,033
I run CAGE long arms with a huge spherical rod end at the frame...drives smoother than it did before with factory radius arms and poly bushings. You still have bushings at the axle wedges.
 

englewoodcowboy

Lick Creek Restorations
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
4,200
You have a couple things to contend with here and I will tell you what we run to get excellent handling and on road manners as well as great off road performance. With a 3.5" lift we right away add drop brackets for standard length arms or jump to long arms. If you wish to run standard length then I would look at the T Rex arms, they work fantastic. I prefer long arms when going 3.5" of lift or more to help gain caster but more importantly to help keep the pinion angle in check. The TRex arms have built in castor and I like to run them with a 4° bushing with a 2.5" lift and we have had to do some clearancing on the front drive shaft double cordon to remove binding at full droop. You could run a 7° bushing for your 3.5" lift but you will need a high angle driveline for the front shaft and they get pricey and are no longer off the shelf parts for those weekend repairs if you know what I mean. The Duff TRex also utilize the factory style bushing if you are concerned with road noise etc.
 

JohnJohn

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 6, 2005
Messages
2,157
Loc.
Richmond
The Duff/Cage arms are a great addition and improve a few items all at once. You get more caster so it drives better, more tire clearance for tighter turns, and more articulation.
Keep in mind too much caster will rotate the whole front diff back so far that you may have driveshaft angle issues and track bar mount issues.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,033
Mine drives great with the CAGE arms, but to be fully transparent, my front driveshaft angle is terrible and binds before I reach maximum droop. I'm in the process of swapping over to an HP D44 and setting all of the angles where I want them, so hopefully she drives just as well afterward since I'm not changing the CAGE arms or the lift, just the axles and tires.
 

garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,856
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
Mine drives great with the CAGE arms, but to be fully transparent, my front driveshaft angle is terrible and binds before I reach maximum droop. I'm in the process of swapping over to an HP D44 and setting all of the angles where I want them, so hopefully she drives just as well afterward since I'm not changing the CAGE arms or the lift, just the axles and tires.

I’m getting away with a little better front drive shaft angle from stretching the front 1 1/2” and my T/C adds another 1 1/2”. But I’m in the process of doing a High Pinion too. I just need to buy the R&P and bearing kit. Hopefully I’ll have a big enough window of time to get it done.

Mark
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
You going to fully customize the high-pinion before installing it Apogee? Just wondering because you're more likely to gain positive caster just from the swap. Most high-pinion front 44's had more built-in caster to start with, than our low-pinion versions did.

Be very interested in what you end up with once the install is done.

Paul
 

garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,856
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
You going to fully customize the high-pinion before installing it Apogee? Just wondering because you're more likely to gain positive caster just from the swap. Most high-pinion front 44's had more built-in caster to start with, than our low-pinion versions did.

Be very interested in what you end up with once the install is done.

Paul

78’-79’ HP with cast wedges has the same “wedges to knuckle” relationship as my 76’ low pinion 44. Maybe the earlier LP’s with manual steering are less caster? If they are, I’d like to know the difference.

Mark
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
The similarity to the '76 makes sense. Over the years we've found that many '76 and '77 EB's front ends had more caster built into them than the '75 and earlier ones did.
However, it's not universal, as someone with a '76 here recently had some pretty low caster numbers.
That said, there's really no way to know for sure that the 44 under their '76 was not a swapped-in unit from an earlier year, or if some just didn't get the love that others did.
I think I asked if it was perhaps an early '76 and they reported that it was actually a later build '76, so that thought went out the window at that point.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Kind of hard to quantify since the numbers were all over the place, varied from side to side (although cross-caster is a thing, and probably built that way on purpose) and may even have varied slightly from years of abuse.
But I'd have to say the differences were as little as 1° to as high as 3° with most falling somewhere in the middle.

Paul
 

garberz

Bronco Influencer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
6,856
Loc.
Conejo Valley, Ca.
Kind of hard to quantify since the numbers were all over the place, varied from side to side (although cross-caster is a thing, and probably built that way on purpose) and may even have varied slightly from years of abuse.
But I'd have to say the differences were as little as 1° to as high as 3° with most falling somewhere in the middle.

Paul

Interesting, got it.

Mark
 

Hozr

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
1,434
Loc.
Oly, WA
Sway bar, Sway bar, Sway bar, Sway bar. Did I mention Sway bar?

By far the best road mod I've ever made!!!!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Can't speak for Hozr, but of all the reports I've received, either way works!
Most people say that installing just the front makes a huge difference. Unfortunately most people that installed both say the same thing!

I did have a buddy that purposely installed the rear only, just to see how it felt (because everybody else was using a front only, or both) and even he said the difference with just the rear only was huge. Actually "night and day" were his exact words.
He did eventually install both and said he felt a substantial difference afterward. He also said he'd have been happy either way.

Not sure if that helps, but from all reports so far, everybody is happy once they're installed. There are the occasional issues with other modifications that people have made to their Broncos prior to the install, or with slight interference issues with coil buckets and stuff like that. But overall the reports are all positive.

Others can tell you the details, but when used with a front, the rear is a whole lot about fine tuning the over-steer/under-steer feel of the vehicle. Just as changing the size of the bars does, where a vehicle was already equipped with them.

Paul
 
OP
OP
MonsterBIlly

MonsterBIlly

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2015
Messages
456
Paul,
Do you have any info on the bc bronco radius arms that have adjustable camber?

Also, do you think and anti wrap bar would be better on rear or just a anti sway bar.
I am just trying to get as much info as I can before I purchase. My bronze really rocks back and forth as I accelerate and brake
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
I don't have any direct knowledge of the BC arms. It's the caster that's adjustable though, not the camber. Seems like it's got quite a bit of adjustability though. You could compensate for just about any condition.
Like any adjustment though, if it makes for more positive caster, it also tilts the pinion down more. Any differential can only handle so much down angle before you bind up the u-joint when in 4wd. But if yours has enough available room to move, the adjustability would let you dial in whatever caster you want. Again, up to a point.

There's no "better" when it comes to anti-sway or anti-wrap, since they both accomplish different tasks.
Neither are absolutely necessary for the safe and fun use of a Bronco, but both are exceptionally well suited for a chassis like on an Early Bronco.

Whether you use one, the other, or both, depends entirely on what you want (or need) to accomplish.
Have you said yet (sorry if you did and I just forgot) what you will be using your Bronco for? And how it will be set up exactly? Such as, what springs (3.5" minus some leaves?), what height, what gear ratio, engine and transmission. What transfer case, and what tires?
And as important as all of that put together, if not more, is how will you be using your Bronco?

And how's your right foot?;);D
Answering those might help me make a better suggestion for you.
Your removal of some springs may give more cred to the use of a Wrap Trap, but it's still good to get the rest of the info.

Paul
 
OP
OP
MonsterBIlly

MonsterBIlly

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2015
Messages
456
Right now it's a mid built 302, c4, 3.50 gears with 33s.

I'm going to 35s with 4.11s. 80 percent on road. I am adding a set of e lockers too. Offroad will be mostly trails. I am going to do a moab run this spring. I like climbing hills but not so much rocks.
I drive aggressive on the pavement and do a lot of highway traveling at 75plus mph
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Just from that description then, and if you have a front anti-swaybar installed, or none at all, and if you only had to do one item in the rear, I'd put in the anti-wrap setup. At least first.
As said, nothing wrong with doing both and the rear anti-sway bar can still be a supplemental benefit if you don't have an issue running both. But the anti-wrap Wrap Trap can definitely be a bigger benefit to your style initially.

Paul
 

Hozr

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
1,434
Loc.
Oly, WA
I did the Hellwig quick disconnect front sway bar and it's absolutely amazing on the street now. It has solved so many of the issues we were chasing.

The diving, dipping, bumpsteer, and wander all disappeared. It turns flat and tracks perfect now.
 
Top