Ignition switch removal issues!

Hey guys! First ever thread post, but I've owned my 74 for a few years now. I am trying to remove the ignition switch, but I'm having issues. Yes, I've watched the YouTube vids and wild horses video as well. I got the key cylinder out with ease. But the back ignition part will not come off! I compressed the spring and twisted counter clockwise, but to no avail. The damn thing isn't budging. Any advise before I do something drastic? Thanks in advance! -Cousin Craig

Can't turn the bezel if it's in good shape because it's keyed/splined to the dash.
And did you try both directions? Just in case?

Sounds like you are getting it to push in against the spring ok? Just won't turn?
Someone else was having this issue last week in fact. Not sure what they ended up doing, or if they did. But it should be doable.

Maybe get a good bright light and your head down under the dash for a quick look-see to determine if you can get it to twist to the proper location. Might be twisting too far and when it's against the stops it's no longer in a straight slot and won't separate. If so, you might have to turn it one way, then just barely back the other way before pulling apart.

Good luck. If you can get a camera up under there to take some shots or video that might help you as well.

Paul

Any luck on getting this out?

Hey guys! Sorry for the late reply. Yes, I was able to get the switch out. I honestly think I was pushing from the back side of the dash too hard. I pushed the spring and continued to press as I tried to turn. Nothing was happening, so out of frustration, I took the lower part of the steering column off. Totally helped me see it while just sitting in the driver's seat. I tried turning it without pressure, as the spring stayed compressed, and it popped apart. Reassembly was a piece of cake. Thank you all for the response. Trying to get the project 74 done before 4th of July. Thank you

Hi Guys,

I'm trying to squeeze in some troubleshooting time. I have an issue with an intermittent failure of the dash lights. One of the suggestions on the board was to check the wiring at the ignition switch.

I'm trying to think ahead to the best way to do this. I'm not sure I have the flexibility left to work from under the dash, so I'm thinking it might be best to remove the ignition switch (with the wiring attached) and work from below the dash. Sound like a good plan?

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff10 said:

...I have an issue with an intermittent failure of the dash lights. One of the suggestions on the board was to check the wiring at the ignition switch.

Click to expand...

Nope. Can't see how it would be related in any way.
The dash lights get their power directly from the headlight switch, through the tiny fuse in the fuse block and then on to the lights.

Jeff10 said:

I'm not sure I have the flexibility left to work from under the dash, so I'm thinking it might be best to remove the ignition switch (with the wiring attached) and work from below the dash. Sound like a good plan?

Click to expand...

I hear that! I can hardly bring myself to open the door anymore, if I think I might have to twist around and stick my head up under the dash!
Yes, if you need to test the switch for any reason, you can do the full removal with the wires still attached and (usually) get it just far enough down to give you reasonable access.
It's not like you can put it in your lap while seated, but at least it's better than pretending to be the pretzel you're not.

Luckily though, you should not have to go through any of that for the dash lights.

Do you have light bars? Do they and the instrument lights all act the same?
Do they act up any time, and if so what do they do when you turn the rheostat dimmer?

Paul

Oh, and if you have not done this lately, clean all the fuse contacts.
Since these are items that use one of the very few fuses, maybe they're just getting low voltage and erratic flow through oxidized contacts.
If the fuse panel is reasonably rust-free, usually you can just remove the fuses and then put them right back in. This action scuffs the surface and makes a better contact.
Many an electrical problem has been fixed by this action.

Good luck.

Paul

Hi Paul,

Thanks for your insight.

I haven't done a very good job acting on the input I have received on this forum. I posted about the light issue some time ago.... I will go back and take a look. I thought something was said about checking something on the ignition switch... I guess my mind is going along with the flexibility. lol

I checked the fuse and contacts when I first noticed this problem. All was good.

When I purchased the Bronco in March 2011 I was told by the previous owner that he thought there was an electrical problem... I think he said intermittent ground. There are times when the dash lights work, and other times when they don't. Finally hoping to put it to bed for good. Maybe I should check the headlight wiring terminations, too. (I did exercise the rheostat when I first posted my problem... it didn't have affect on the operation of the dash lights.)

I hope to take a look at the switch one of the next few nights. I'll report back.

Thanks again for your help. You really do a great job, and for guys like me, it's really appreciated.

Take Care,

Jeff

Well now you really have to fix it. So it doesn't come back to haunt you again years from now!;D

Speaking of grounds, you can go a long way towards a happy electrical system if you add a couple of your own.
First, verify that there even is a ground from the battery to the body. Ford did it, but most people that replace the negative battery cable never replace the body ground, thinking the engine ground is enough.
It isn't always.

Then, when you've made sure there is at least a 10ga ground to the wheel well, add another one between the back of the intake manifold and the firewall.
This is actually very important for your dash and windshield wiper functions.

You can double-down on things by adding another good sized one between the engine block and the frame, and the body and the frame, but the first two are the most important.

And last, but not least in importance, when you feel like getting all flexible, add another short jumper from the body (usually the firewall where the engine-to-firewall ground is) to the dashboard. This will ensure a good ground to your instruments and lights.
From the factory, Ford relied 100% on the body having good bonding/contact with each other part, from the front grille to the tailgate. This worked fine when things were new. But now, not so much.

Good luck. Just a few more things you can do standing up. Before you have to twist down under the dash again!

Paul

Hi Paul,

Sounds good... it's pretty amazing how many electrical problems are due to poor or missing grounds.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks,

Jeff