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Dan Wheeler's Rear 4-Link Thread
- Thread starter DanWheeler
- Start date
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Thanks!
Got the fuel lines and pump installed and painted the axle in my favorite color, "cover-all-my-mistakes", gloss black.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
For some stupid reason, that I can't remember now, I filled in my diff breather hole on the Sterling with the welder. So tonight I managed to spend 3 hours removing my freshly sealed diff cover, cutting, drilling, tapping and welding a plate onto it only to realize I welded the plate with the NPT taper inside-out.
Too annoyed to fix it, I ordered a ballistic fan diff cover that I can just tap directly.
That's about all I've done for the last few weeks - summer happens
Too annoyed to fix it, I ordered a ballistic fan diff cover that I can just tap directly.
That's about all I've done for the last few weeks - summer happens
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- Nov 26, 2005
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http://www.lubelocker.com/
They really are worth the cost IMO, especially at times like those where you have everything sealed up and perfect only to find that it has to come off again.
They really are worth the cost IMO, especially at times like those where you have everything sealed up and perfect only to find that it has to come off again.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Are those reusable? I saw them on the ruffstuff site... thought they were kind of expensive but if they are removable might be worth it. I guess even if they aren't, way easier than scraping gasket off.
Yes I put them on everything I work on a absolutely worth every penny
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Summer finally winding down and getting back to it. Ordered the lube locker and now have the ballistic fab diff cover. This thing is way heavier than I expected. I guess what's another 10lbs on this axle. Pic is at full stuff so I can build the exhaust. Everything is fitting perfectly.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Snuck out to the garage for a couple hours to paint and install the diff cover. Those lube locker gaskets really are worth the money. Also re-did my brake line brackets with some 1/8th inch bar stock to make something to zip tie the brake lines to. I was going around the axle with zip ties but scraping over a rock could shear those.
Going to order a new muffler that will fit better under the floor and behind the crossmember.
Still need to make some mounts for the fuel cell, blow out and connect all the fuel lines, mount the rear seat, finish all the electrical along the frame, shorten the sway bar arms to clear the shocks and then I think it'll be ready to drive.
Going to order a new muffler that will fit better under the floor and behind the crossmember.
Still need to make some mounts for the fuel cell, blow out and connect all the fuel lines, mount the rear seat, finish all the electrical along the frame, shorten the sway bar arms to clear the shocks and then I think it'll be ready to drive.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Finished up all the wiring, cleaning up old connection messes, soldering butt connectors and wrapping stuff in flex tube. Fuel pump is back online. Got some fuel lines connected and routed. Lots of little stuff for now until the new muffler arrives and I find a way to mount the fuel tank.
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LOL!!!
I'm making progress! Front end is all welded up! Rear is all welded up! Gussets are made and welded on the D60 inner "C"s and I'm almost done welding gussets on the knuckles.
Supposed to be going to the 'Con with some friends on the 11th but I don't think I can go without floors...
I'm making progress! Front end is all welded up! Rear is all welded up! Gussets are made and welded on the D60 inner "C"s and I'm almost done welding gussets on the knuckles.
Supposed to be going to the 'Con with some friends on the 11th but I don't think I can go without floors...
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Well, it's done. Looks awesome. Drives like *!%#.
Took it around the block and the whole rear end feels like it's going to come up and over the top of me when I brake hard.
The shocks feel very strange - sticky. I can pull up on the rear and it will go up and stay up. Push down and it will go down and stay down. I've been playing with upper and lower chamber pressures but can't get it to act normal. Wondering if I have an oil level problem.
I'm going to re-enter my calculator numbers based on actual measurements now that it's done. Maybe my numbers are terrible. I hope I don't have to fix bad geometry with shocks.
My only other hope is that the rear end is so light without a full tank, tail gate, spare tire, tools, bumper etc. that it is contributing to the jacking.
For now, time to go in to laugh it off with a beer or two.
Open to any other ideas or suggestions
Took it around the block and the whole rear end feels like it's going to come up and over the top of me when I brake hard.
The shocks feel very strange - sticky. I can pull up on the rear and it will go up and stay up. Push down and it will go down and stay down. I've been playing with upper and lower chamber pressures but can't get it to act normal. Wondering if I have an oil level problem.
I'm going to re-enter my calculator numbers based on actual measurements now that it's done. Maybe my numbers are terrible. I hope I don't have to fix bad geometry with shocks.
My only other hope is that the rear end is so light without a full tank, tail gate, spare tire, tools, bumper etc. that it is contributing to the jacking.
For now, time to go in to laugh it off with a beer or two.
Open to any other ideas or suggestions
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- Jul 31, 2001
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Dan, put a couple hundred pounds in the back... make the seals work and loosen up a bit. I was talking to Ben at FilthyMotorsports about how long it takes to break them in and he said the seals can be sticky for a while...
If it is coming over the top when you're breaking, that could be a sign of having to adjust pressures...
Load it up, drive it around and see if that helps...hope so!
If it is coming over the top when you're breaking, that could be a sign of having to adjust pressures...
Load it up, drive it around and see if that helps...hope so!
302BRONC
Jr. Member
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I second trying to break the ORIs in more.
The "stiction" as i believe it is scientifically called is real. I didn't believe in it while building the suspension because you had to muscle it around so much anyway i didn't notice the shocks sticking. But once on the road and trail, it took a bit to work the seals in on the ORIs.
Our rear 4 links are almost identical and i don't notice any substantial lifting in the rear under hard breaking. Could it be your front 3 link causing the front to dive and transferring weight? Are your rear brakes grabbing as much as they should?
The "stiction" as i believe it is scientifically called is real. I didn't believe in it while building the suspension because you had to muscle it around so much anyway i didn't notice the shocks sticking. But once on the road and trail, it took a bit to work the seals in on the ORIs.
Our rear 4 links are almost identical and i don't notice any substantial lifting in the rear under hard breaking. Could it be your front 3 link causing the front to dive and transferring weight? Are your rear brakes grabbing as much as they should?
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I was wondering the same thing. I'm sure you've got enough things to chase down before you're to the point where you can confidently stand on the brakes to start testing front/rear bias and such, but regardless how much anti-dive you have built into your rear four-link, lack of rear brakes would certainly contribute to the issue(s).
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Thanks guys, definitely going to re-bleed rear brakes tonight. Pedal feels a bit soft but wasn't sure if it was because I have a lot of hose to the rear axle now. Right away I noticed in 4-low that I could get the rear tires to bark on the garage floor with my foot light on the brake pedal while at idle which may mean the rear brakes may not be grabbing.
Hopefully it's a combination of everything... I re-entered my 4-link calc numbers based on actual measurements and they are really good so I don't think my geometry could be this bad.
Hopefully it's a combination of everything... I re-entered my 4-link calc numbers based on actual measurements and they are really good so I don't think my geometry could be this bad.
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