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Overheating problems - your suggestions?

Ksm

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
1,261
I've been battling an overheating problem ever since I added the Vintage Air system. It overheats while idling at stoplights, traffic, etc. all with the a/c off.
I'm going to list out everything I have or have tried and hopefully y'all can give me some suggestion on what to try next????

Gen IV Vintage Air
Triple core radiator
16 lb radiator cap
shroud
pump pulley
6 blade fan (not a reverse fan)
High Volume water pump
180 thermostat

Any ideas on what I can try next? I'm thinking about switching to a 70/30 coolant mix. We're in Texas so it never gets cold anyway. Maybe switch to a seven blade fan? Switch to a 195 thermostat (even though that seems counter-intuitive). A clutch?
A wizard?
 

Skiddy

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
11,557
it's too early in the season for this. how hot is it getting?
 
OP
OP
Ksm

Ksm

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
1,261
it's too early in the season for this. how hot is it getting?

It was low 90's last weekend and although I didn't boil over, I could see the temp was way higher than it should be. But yes, the problem gets worse from about now through next October.
 

Skiddy

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
11,557
if it's not boiling over that is a good thing, tends to start to boil around 240ish any below that won't hurt it. but now if you turn on the a/c I bet it may overheat. clutch fans do work good. my brother swears on water wetter on his, drops his temps down 5-10 degrees.
I would leave the mix alone on the antifreeze it actually helps with temps
 

Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,737
Loc.
Georgia
Ditto on the timing. If it is retarding to much you can get hot at idle.

I have heard the factory 7 blade fans are the best. A 195 thermostat would even out the temperature but it's not going to keep it cooler if you have problems.

Post some pictures of the shroud, fan, and radiator if you can. Spacing makes a lot of difference with the airflow. Somebody might spot something......
 
OP
OP
Ksm

Ksm

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
1,261
Ditto on the timing. If it is retarding to much you can get hot at idle.

I have heard the factory 7 blade fans are the best. A 195 thermostat would even out the temperature but it's not going to keep it cooler if you have problems.

Post some pictures of the shroud, fan, and radiator if you can. Spacing makes a lot of difference with the airflow. Somebody might spot something......

Ok, I'll take some tomorrow and upload them.
 
OP
OP
Ksm

Ksm

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
1,261
if it's not boiling over that is a good thing, tends to start to boil around 240ish any below that won't hurt it. but now if you turn on the a/c I bet it may overheat. clutch fans do work good. my brother swears on water wetter on his, drops his temps down 5-10 degrees.
I would leave the mix alone on the antifreeze it actually helps with temps

It hasn't done it this year yet but every summer I boil over multiple times.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,758
Loc.
San Martin, CA
Suggestion above ^^^^ Right water pump?

New water pulley? Spinning the pump faster or slower... or same?

Could the water temp sending unit have gone bad?

Can you confirm temps with a heat/temp gun?

Coolant air bubble somewhere?

Do you have coolant circulation?
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
What's the history on this car? Has it run hot as long as you've owned it? Did you put on this six blade fan? Where did you get the fan?

I can tell you that the six blade fan that Vintage Air sold me wouldn't move enough air through the condenser to keep the A/C head pressure down. The only fan I could find that would move enough air, was the old factory super cooling flex fan I already had hanging on the garage wall.

If you've got a head gasket problem or timing issue, no amount of water pump or coolant wetter wizardry is going to help.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,483
Is it a 351 or 302?
What else has been done to the engine that you know of? Since it's been doing it all along (or is that just since the A/C install?) do you know the history of the engine?
Have you tuned it since you bought it?

I know you've been here awhile now, but I don't remember everything about your Bronco.
And if you have not experimented with tuning yet, I would do that asap.

Paul
 

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
2,772
What do you have for a radiator and when was the last time it was flushed / cleaned ?

I just replaced the original radiator in my 77 F150 because it had a very small leak. When I removed it, it was so full of crud it must have weighed damn near 100 lbs.

Dropped my temps at least 15 degrees.
 

Bronco Biff

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Messages
934
air dam between radiator support and grill to keep from recirculating the hot under hood air between the condenser and thru radiator and pull thru grill instead. I have heard that adding vents on the sides of the inner wheel wells helps to get the heat out from under the hood at low speed also.
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,805
An interesting find on one manufacture (Evans) of coolant has to say on multipass radiators which as an engineer and student of thermodynamics, I agree with, and others who live daily in a 120 degree zone:

There’s the belief among some that the engine coolant can go through the radiator too fast and not have enough time to dissipate its heat or that it’s passing through the engine too fast to pick the heat up. This belief probably originated via the observation that removing the thermostat can cause the engine to boil over faster. Adding a baffle into the thermostat housing to restrict coolant flow will then make boiling over less prominent. (The reality here is that a flow restriction at the coolant’s exit from the engine will raise the pressure within the engine which raises the boiling point of the fluid inside the engine cooling jacket.)

Another method of slowing the coolant flow that people use is a multiple pass radiator. They see it as a dual benefit of slowing the flow and providing the additional cooling of more radiator surface. It does decrease the radiator outlet temperature, but the temperature within the engine will actually go up because the fluid spends more time there as well.

Regardless of the fluid used, it is always easier to transfer heat between liquid and metal than it is between metal and air. The system’s heat transfer limit is at the radiator. The radiator is more efficient with a greater temperature difference between the metal and the air. If the air temperature is 90 and the radiator temperature is 95, not much heat will transfer compared to an air temperature of 90 and a radiator temperature of 250. (I’m using extreme temp numbers here just to make the point.) This means that the cooler end of a multiple pass radiator is less efficient than the hotter end.

A cooling system works best when there is a fast coolant flow and the radiator temperature remains high because it can shed heat to the atmosphere better. Water-based antifreeze puts a limit on the coolant flow rate because the pump can only turn so fast before it cavitates. Basically, the low pressure side of the pump has a lower boiling point and the fluid will vaporize; the pump can’t move a vapor.

Evans Coolant solves the boiling point problem allowing aggressive pump speeds and eliminating the need for engine coolant exit restrictors.



Tech Tip: Hot Weather

It's above 90°F the A/C is on, temp gauge has moved from normal to almost too hot what can be done? Most cooling systems today have a heater core built in for defrosting the windshield, cold weather heat or defogging in rainy weather. Most people do not know that the heater circuit is on all the time in most applications. Hot coolant is circulating through the heater core under the dash, this coolant does not go through the radiator to dissipate heat and help cool the engine. The heater circuit is a radiator bypass loop, some system have a control valve that shuts off the coolant flow when heat is not condition to help lower the temperature why not be more comfortable and let the radiator do it's job. To remedy this problem a simple manual valve can be installed in the heater feed line or a 1/4" restriction can be fabricated and put in the hose. Before doing this make sure the hose you select only feeds the heater core. By shutting off or restricting this circuit it redirects the coolant flow to the radiator where the operating temperature can be decreased by 10 to 20 degrees.


While hooking up my old beast heater lines, I discovered back in the day they did use a bypass prior to the heater hose valve which directed coolant back to the motor. and Im thinking of putting one in to allow that flow. The 5.0 heater bracket even has one built in. Im also considering using Evans product if they get back to me on my simple questions on a few items.

To the OP, I think your multipass may be a problem but not requiring a new radiator just yet, I think you should go to 190-195 tstat now (its cheap and easy) I think you are not moving enough air as well which could be a fan, shroud, or air dam, or all of the above. The general consensus for moving air here in Az is to use the Explorer fan and clutch, nothing beats it hands down. Barring that, my 351 was kept cool using a standard radiator with flex fan, just a bit noisy though.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Ksm

Ksm

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
1,261
What's the history on this car? Has it run hot as long as you've owned it? Did you put on this six blade fan? Where did you get the fan?

I can tell you that the six blade fan that Vintage Air sold me wouldn't move enough air through the condenser to keep the A/C head pressure down. The only fan I could find that would move enough air, was the old factory super cooling flex fan I already had hanging on the garage wall.

If you've got a head gasket problem or timing issue, no amount of water pump or coolant wetter wizardry is going to help.

I've had it for over 12 years and it didn't start doing this until I put the vintage air in. I think the fan is the one the kit came with but I need to check on this.
 
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