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SoCal Paint

swmrdrn

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2017
Messages
121
When we (my 16 year old son and myself) bought our Bronco 4 months ago we knew it needed paint and it's time to get it done. The truck is an original Southern California rust free truck but it suffers from about 4 $399 paint jobs. From what I can tell none of the paint has ever been block sanded which has resulted in wavy body panels and stupidly thick paint.

I have one quote for $6,000 to strip it to bare metal and do a first class job. My bother-in-law has had this shop do several cars/trucks for him and the work is done to a high level. I was hoping to get a not show quality job done for about half that price. Does anyone have a suggestion for reasonable SoCal paint work?

It seems most shops around here don't want to deal with old cars and don't want to strip all the paint. Cal Blast gave me an over the phone estimate of $2,000 to media blast to bare metal and epoxy prime it. I'm temped to let them do that and then have a few shops quote the blocking and painting.

All suggestions are welcome.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,613
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
6k sounds real good if they gonna strip and give it a show quality paint job. My bronco may pay a visit to macco at some point. I know some real good shops around here but to do what you want would probably start about 10k. For my 72 suburban that's in good shape they said their low estimate would be 15 for what you want but not firm because they never know for sure what's under the paint
 

bronkenn

Contributor
Bronco Guy
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
2,662
Loc.
Southeast Ohio
6 grand doesn't sound like a bad price for a full strip and quality paint job nowadays. Just the material is around 2000 bucks to paint and if they have a good reputation you'll be happy in the long run. You already have the cheap job and it doesn't look good. If that Bronco is in that good of shape, it deserves a quality paint job.
 

gavindg

Full Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2017
Messages
283
Loc.
Westlake Village
I know it does not compare and its just a bandage, but you might want to look into wrapping it instead especially if your not looking for show quality.
Just a thought..
 

Rob1962

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Messages
1,681
Wow, are you kidding me? That's a steal of a deal for $6k to take it down to metal.

As an example, just paid $30k to do the same thing to a 46 Ford Coupe.
 

Rob1962

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Messages
1,681
Personally, I think a $3k paint job would be a waste of $3k. Do it right the first time.
 

AFLtCol

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Messages
1,069
In my case, $6K was just a deposit....you need to jump on that if they're as good as you say.
 

rpmgarage22

Full Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
162
Here is my reply to a similar question a while back: For $6k, the type of "show" you will be going to will not be the type of "show" you expect.


One question that I have is the "5-6 coats of clear"... What made you decide upon that number? Unless you are talking about having it "flow-coated" (where the painter lays down 3 coats of clear; then wet sands to a perfectly flat surface, which takes most of two coats away; then lays down 1-2 more coats of clear), that would likely be too much film thickness. It would likely end up with a milky finish that would be apparent on that color of base. If it is not being flow-coated, I don't know many painters who will want to lay down that many coats of clear. PPG recommends a maximum film thickness of 3.5mil, and 6 coats would effectively "void" their "warranty" (which is not worth much anyway...just sayin').

Also, I would not consider Lizard Skin on the frame. The two versions of Lizard Skin are for: sound control and heat control. That is the only purpose, neither of which are needed for a frame. Now, as an interior use...absolutely! I have used it with great success for both uses. I have found the the heat control does a decent job for sound control, too. But, the sound control does not do that great for heat control.

For the frame, sticking with paint, powder coat, or even "bed liner" (from a reputable shop who understands how to plug holes, tape off, etc) will be your best bet.

As for the estimate for a "show quality" finish, if the bids are under $20k, I would be suspicious... Many shops (myself included) now work off of a "base rate" with money held in an escrow account on jobs this big. Basically, you put down an agreed amount, let's say 10k, in an escrow account that both you and the shop are named on. An agreed amount is immediately available to the shop to cover overhead and starting supplies (let's say $3500 of that $10000). Then, the shop "bills" the escrow account as work progresses. I bill every two weeks. This way, your money is only used when they are working on your vehicle. This is because there will be many other vehicles worked on at the same time that your vehicle is in their shop. There will likely be a "mechanic's lien" on your vehicle for the duration of the stay at the shop. It just says that you cannot have your vehicle back if you owe them money (usually it says "any amount owed over $0.01USD) until you settle the bill. If you should "pull" the build at any time, the shop will retain a set amount or the owed amount (whichever is higher), release the "lien", and you will receive the remainder of the money in the escrow account and get your vehicle back. This protects both the shop, and you.

If I were going to do that in-depth of a build with someone else doing the work, that is the way that I would want to do it. I have been doing it this way for quite a few years. I have only had one upset customer, and even we have since came to an understanding of why I could not "bump him up on my schedule" and he even had me do more work to his car later after taking it from my shop.

I have never been left "holding the bag" by a customer...and a customer has never needed to feel like their vehicle was in "shop jail".

Sorry for so many words, but it seems like you were looking for details.

BTW...I am in East TN. I do not know the legal side of things for your specific location.

Best of luck! Looks like a real good start.
 

valveamp

Full Member
Joined
May 30, 2011
Messages
287
Hi. I had a similar question a while back as I live in Orange Co, SoCal. I looked on this website and found some recommendations. I ended up going to Monrovia Auto Body. I was not looking for a show quality paint job. If you are, then Monrovia may not be the place for you. My 71 had the original Candy Apple Red paint, but it was very faded and worn down to the primer in places. I don't think Monrovia took the entire body down to metal, but they did take off a lot of paint. There are a few small dents that they repaired. Also, they removed the top and painted it separately. The top is white, the body is red. The price was less than your $6K, but not by that much. I was very happy with the results and I've not had any issues since. Again, not a show quality paint job, but I didn't want one. My truck is not show quality, it's one that I like to drive now and then and I enjoy that. It looks good and gets a lot of comments at gas stations, etc. If you're looking to spend less than $6K, then you should consider driving up there and getting an estimate. Although, I doubt it will be much less. $6K doesn't sound bad for what you're getting.
 
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swmrdrn

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2017
Messages
121
Thank you for all the input. My son and brother-in-law took the bronco to the shop in Santa Ana and I just emailed him for the shops name. I have seen this shops work on several of my brother-in-laws cars... he has perhaps 50 collector cars but that is a different story.

Sounds like I should be jumping on the opportunity to get this work done at this price. He said he could pick up the car next week on his flatbed and said it will take about 6 weeks. It just so happens that I'll be driving through Monrovia today so I'll also stop in that shop. It is the one located at: 522 E Duarte?
 

HB73

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
787
I had mine done in Santa Ana. 5k. Took 6 months though.
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Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
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OP
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swmrdrn

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2017
Messages
121
Damn that looks good.

I stoped by Monrovia Body Shop and they as several old muscle cars in there. The works looks like good value and they promised 30 day turn around. Stripped to bare metal, blocked and painted for about $5k. That might just get it done for me.
 

valveamp

Full Member
Joined
May 30, 2011
Messages
287
Just wanted to let you know that they, Monrovia, lived up to their pledge to return in about 30 days. There were 2 "issues" I had. One was that they were supposed to paint the embossed "FORD" logo on the tailgate white, but they forgot. I took it back a week or two later, on a Saturday morning, and they painted it while I waited. Besides paint, they installed new seals on all of the glass (I provided the seals). I also provided new fender flares which they also installed. The second issue was that they cut "V" wedges out of the seal between the windshield frame and the top. When the top was installed, it didn't seal correctly. I got water coming into the cabin a week or two later when I was driving on the freeway. I don't know why they made this cuts. I assumed it may have been because they forgot to install the gasket, initially, and had to go back and install it after the roof was put back on. The cuts, I suppose, made installation easier. I decided that it would be better if I just replaced the seal myself, since I had put the cut one on earlier. That way, I knew it was correct. My son and I had it on in about 30 minutes, no big deal. I consider this a minor issue and it wouldn't stop me from going back. In fact, I have a '49 Willys that I plan to take up there in the near future. Enjoy.....
 

Superwoody

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2012
Messages
80
Loc.
Skyline
Just wanted to let you know that they, Monrovia, lived up to their pledge to return in about 30 days. There were 2 "issues" I had. One was that they were supposed to paint the embossed "FORD" logo on the tailgate white, but they forgot. I took it back a week or two later, on a Saturday morning, and they painted it while I waited. Besides paint, they installed new seals on all of the glass (I provided the seals). I also provided new fender flares which they also installed. The second issue was that they cut "V" wedges out of the seal between the windshield frame and the top. When the top was installed, it didn't seal correctly. I got water coming into the cabin a week or two later when I was driving on the freeway. I don't know why they made this cuts. I assumed it may have been because they forgot to install the gasket, initially, and had to go back and install it after the roof was put back on. The cuts, I suppose, made installation easier. I decided that it would be better if I just replaced the seal myself, since I had put the cut one on earlier. That way, I knew it was correct. My son and I had it on in about 30 minutes, no big deal. I consider this a minor issue and it wouldn't stop me from going back. In fact, I have a '49 Willys that I plan to take up there in the near future. Enjoy.....

I think the rule applies even if you're not the OP .... Pics or it didn't happen ;D
 
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