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Unimog axles (update.. Got it. mog9 build pics..)

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Madgyver

Madgyver

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he has a build thread on it on nor cal broncos. he flipped a stock strange carrier to get reverse rotation since mog axles spin backwards.
He also built a scraper in it for getting the oil to the front pinion bearings...

It's in his build thread on Norcalbroncos page #50 and up... I was up late last night reading up and researching..
 

bax

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Well I guess I know what I will be reading in the future. hey mad what kind of truck is that in the pictures. Or was that I should say.

bax
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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It's a Mercedes Benz Unimog

This is what I think it looked like......

Unimog-FireWood.jpg
 

crawln68

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patrick, How did you do that 9'' rear gear case. Strange dosen't make a High pinion 9'' But you seem to have one? Is this housing just flipped over. Are you running a reverse cut gear? If so what have you done about the side ? ring gear deflection support? I have not seen anything like this in a strange gear case.

bax

Hey Bax,

Yeah all of the details are in my build thread. I'd hate to dilute Mad's thread with all of the boring details of how I built mine. Just let me know if you have any questions. ;)
 

crawln68

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What gear ratio do you have in the front D60 to match the gear ratio in your mog9?
edit.. found answer on your sig.. 5.13

How did you like its performance on your UA trek?

Yup, 5:13 in the front. I LOVED it on the UA! There were a lot of guys mad at me because I could run lines, that they had their rear diffs stuck on for a long time, with no problems. ;D
 

bax

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Patrick it's way cool. I read your build thread. I think you have done a fine job. My only problem is you cut up your truck to do the swap. Your truck was so nice it just seems like you should of built another one. This way you would have two great rides.

Bax
 

crawln68

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Patrick it's way cool. I read your build thread. I think you have done a fine job. My only problem is you cut up your truck to do the swap. Your truck was so nice it just seems like you should of built another one. This way you would have two great rides.

Bax

Would you please call my wife and inform her of this plan! ;D I can't seem to sell that idea to her. I need some reinforcements.
 
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Madgyver

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Is there a breakdown diaghram of the mog boxes posted online?
 

crawln68

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Here you go Mad. ;)
 

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Madgyver

Madgyver

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Thanks Patrick

I've seen a pic on pirate where Sunray did a hybrid without the "225" part but I couldn't find any follow up on it....

I thought that there may be a load bearing in there..
 
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bax

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I was wondering the same thing. Well did ya?
 

bax

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Hey Patrick, are those Mogs strong? Or do you give up strength for ground clearance? How do they compare to a 60 rear? Strength wise.
bax
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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If it were just for the axles I'd have them already but the deal is for the whole rig.. I need a big yard to tear it apart plus a forklift could assist..

I'm playing out my options, calling friends and colleuges if they got a vacant lot that I could borrow for a couple of days... I may just ask the big boss if I could use the shop for a saturday...
 

bax

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You can use my yard. Any scrap steel collection places on the island. You know take it there cut out your axles and let them have the rest for the scrap.
 

OX1

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I love my 404's!!!!!!!!! The best thing about them is to be able to air down to 4 PSI and still have more ground clearance than others, just about fully aired up. The NE is real slippery lots of days and it really helps with the airing way down.

Anyway, I had to move the diff over in the stock housing to get it to fit (4.25 inches for my full size chassis, which put it right where a full size 78, D60 would be). I currently have my 406's stuck under my 74 I'm building and I see no way of them fitting without tubing the front forward of the motor mounts, both outward and upward. You can get around this with lots of lift, but even a 3.5 (added to the true portal lift of 4.5) gets you way up there near 8 " of lift (not counting any body lift) .

Mog/9's are a great idea and can fix a lot of the problems, but you are looking at another 3 grand or so per axle by the time you get housing, new custom inners, ARB, gears, bling 3rd member case, and NASCAR big bearing pinion setup. It does fix the 404 mogs biggest problem (from an install standpoint) being the huge snout pinion it has. With a WB of 104 in my fullsize, I barely have a front driveshaft, I just don't see it, at anywhere near the stock WB of an EB.

The suspension is going to have to be BEEFY if you "get it" a lot. I have broken just about everything (links, link mounts, leaf springs, traction bar, track bar mounts, drag link, front axle truss, and recently a cracked frame where upper 3rd link mounts) that holds the mogs in the truck. By their nature, they just want to rip themselves out, even when the truck is sitting still. On my 74, I will be using EVO large 1-1/4 joints for all links and 2.25, 3/8 wall tube.

Some have broken portal boxes. Many think it is attributable to loose portal box cases. The bolts due loosen regulary and need to be tightened. I have not broken a box and have had my 6300 lb pig hopping on 42's many times (I do not have much HP though, so that helps and I do make sure my bolts are tight almsot every run). It does seem that recently, finding a spare box has been a bit more of chore than it used to be. They were going for around 300$ for a spare. I would not run without having a spare, at least back in the tow rig. Not like you going to the junkyard for parts if one does take dump.

I pad 2400$ for mine with pinion conversions already. Disk/8 lug conversions are going for over 1000$ per end these days. Current;y, I'm paying about 1300$ for custom inners on my 406's to move diff closer to the stock EB (ford) location (about 4 inches over). The 406's use large but std looking axle tubes where the 404's use double wall housing with a 3rd member that is rather hard to cut and fab.

I think the bottom line is how hard do you wheel and do you hit the diffs a lot now (and does it slow you down). Lou seems to be able to drag himself over a lot due to his very low weight, so the mogs would not probably help him much.
Not sure most could not get down to his weight (I'd guess) without making a narrow buggy like he has (which you may not want??).
 

OX1

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Hey Patrick, are those Mogs strong? Or do you give up strength for ground clearance? How do they compare to a 60 rear? Strength wise.
bax

Bax, they are rated 1.25 ton I believe. They came on a rig that had super low gearing, weighed what an F250 weighs, and had 38's stock. The best thing about them (strengthwise) is the portals have 2.13 gearing. It allows you to use less gearing in the drivetrain all the way down to the inner axle shafts. I am running stockish 400 on propane (with cam, but stock exh), stockish rebuilt C6, stock 205 and the 7.56 overal mog gears (on 42 IROKS). Gets the job done and I attribute that near stock drivetrain to my ability to beat on it hard and not even break stock 1330 driveshafts, while still having enough gear to climb anything I want.

Things that I have heard break are the portal boxes most, followed by a front knuckle or front axle CV here and there. Have also heard of a rare pinion breaking. I have broken nothing internal on them. I think they are about as strong as a 60 with bling shafts and joints.

The advantages over a 60 besides ground clearance are

1. CV that can steer to near 50 degrees.
2. No bearings to grease, everything rides in oil bath (portals have their own drain and fill plugs, which is nice if you mud a lot).
3. Tie rods are behind axle and if sleeved with 2", 1/4 wall will hold up to whatever you can give them.
4. Drag link arm is bent upward, making drag link way up out of the way (even though it will be already up farther due to less susp lift than std axle) and no dropped pitman needed.
5. Traction bars (if using leaf susp) can be made right off the end of pinion , since entire one link suspension came off the pinion stock on mogs.
6. Housings are shaved from the factor and require diff to be rotated 90 degrees to get 3rd member out.
7. CTIS and pressurizing diffs for water crossings were factory options and available.
8. Housings are double wall, so even if you punch a hole in it, it wont leak.
9. High diffs keep driveshafts out of harms way. Anyone running stock 9" knows what this means.
10. If you buddy does not have them, you win before you even get to the trail :p
 

bax

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Thanks for the info James. They sound like they could be interesting to play around with. I have never seen a set around here. Do you have to get lucky to find them?
Bax
 
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