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EFI swap on a 70's Block

Viperwolf1

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Aug 23, 2007
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Use the 5.0 pan. It works better with the 1 piece gasket and you won't have to plug the dipstick hole in the block.
 

HoosierDaddy

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May 29, 2006
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Well building the 5.0 on the side have a couple questions
will probably do the efi on the old motor first
1. for you cam experts block is 30 over, AfR 1420 heads

SB-Ford Outlaw Street Cylinder Head
185cc Intake Ports
Stud Rocker Arm Mounting
72cc Combustion Chambers
69cc Exhaust Ports
1.290'' Hydraulic Dual Valve Spring with dampner
135lbs. Seat Pressure
.600'' Max Lift

woud this cam be to radical, My Mustang guru is saying to go with it
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-compcams-xe270hr-stageii.html

2. Oil pan, should I use 5.0 or the original old eb one
Mine has silicone on it where the stick comes out, and the dip stick bends under the headers toward the front Pain in the u know what,
does not leak but really dont like the design.

3. Oil pick up strainer bolt is on the centre main. passenger side of new block,
does this work with eb pan.

thanks in advance will obviously have more questions later

I'm putting that cam in a 347 , it will probably be too hot for a low rpm 302 that already has gears that are way too tall behind it. Big rave reviews for the xe258 though. A stock mustang cam or explorer cam is what you will want for your low rpm grunt work.
 

HoosierDaddy

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Not to doubt your buddy , that cam would be a blast in a light weight mustang , but not in a heavy ass old bronco that , as I already mentioned , is geared way too tall.
 

73azbronco

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Nov 11, 2007
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Ditto, excellent cam for a 3000lb mustang, not a truck weighing 4500lbs. It will wind up to 6000 plus rpm, but do you want to loose the low end? Stick to the mid 260's camshafts, heck, mine is closer to a 258 in my 347.

You'll need to compare the pickup tube to the pump and proper bearing bolt, can't remember which one off hand, but if wrong, just swap out the bolts.
 
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skerrybronco

skerrybronco

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Loc.
Montreal,Canada
EFI swap on a 70's Block+ 5.0 build

Thanks Guys
I think Im leaning towards this cam, suggested by a local performance vender,and seems to be a lot closer to what you guys are saying..
this is what he says
" For the cam, we can’t really go too crazy since you’ll need vacuum for the EFI system to work properly – Plus you’re looking for torque, so I think Comp Cams Xtreme Energy XE264R (35-349-8) should work well.
Specs are 264/270 Duration, (212/218 at .050”) with .512 lift and a 114 degree lobe, and it should be okay with the stock ECU".....

Dont forget I will be re gearing to 4.56's

as Viper stated
I think I will go with the 5.0 Pan and pickup, pump and gear which I already have.
just wasn't sure as the EB one is oddly shaped.

Have any of you folks used the stock gas tank for the EFI
I plan to get the 2 pumps and accumulator from BCB. unless there are better suggestions

thanks in advance folks
 

Viperwolf1

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I have a modified aux tank and a 23 gal NWMP tank. Neither uses an in-tank pump. I modified the aux tank sender to have a fuel return port. On the NWMP tank I send the return through the tank drain hole.

I had some problems using the BCB LP pusher pump. It doesn't flow as much fuel as my HP pump. That led to fuel starvation when hot. I changed it out to a carter P4070 and haven't had any problems since. I use a P4070 at each tank now along with a 6 port valve before the accumulator. Lots of plumbing and wiring. I recommend just using one large tank.
 
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skerrybronco

skerrybronco

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Loc.
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EFI swap on a 70's Block+ 5.0 build

Thanks for the input Viperwolf1
I think I will just stick with my one rear tank for now (77) as a larger one is quite expensive, did you use the large accumulator, and is everything thing mounted on the frame, drivers or passenger,
I also noticed in your gallery you have AFR heads, which cam are you running.
thanks
 

Viperwolf1

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Thanks for the input Viperwolf1
I think I will just stick with my one rear tank for now (77) as a larger one is quite expensive, did you use the large accumulator, and is everything thing mounted on the frame, drivers or passenger,
I also noticed in your gallery you have AFR heads, which cam are you running.
thanks

I have the smaller accumulator but its easy to turn a small one into a large one by changing the filter and pick tube length.

Aux LP pump is inside driver's frame. 6-port valve and main LP pump are on crossmember in front of rear tank. Accumulator and HP pump are outside of passenger frame. I'm using mustang fuel rails which feed on the passenger side.

Cam is mustang HO advanced 4 degrees.
 

ransil

Bronco Guru
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Sep 6, 2003
Messages
8,122
"Have any of you folks used the stock gas tank for the EFI
I plan to get the 2 pumps and accumulator from BCB. unless there are better suggestions"

skip the accumulator, no benefit except causes you to spend more money and there is limited space to mount it.

I have installed EFI setups with LP & HP pumps and done them with just the HP pumps, The HP pump setup only I have seen pumps go bad on them ( they were/ are daily drivers) My broncos are setup with the 2 pump system and no issues but no as many miles.
 
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skerrybronco

skerrybronco

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EFI swap on a 70's Block+ 5.0 build

thanks guys
excuse my ignorance but what does the cam advanced to 4 degrees do with stock cam

my mustang friend has 2 he will give me, but is used recommended even if they are roller,
 

Viperwolf1

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thanks guys
excuse my ignorance but what does the cam advanced to 4 degrees do with stock cam

my mustang friend has 2 he will give me, but is used recommended even if they are roller,

Advancing will shift the torque curve to a slightly lower rpm. Better in a heavier (than mustang) vehicle. I'm sure there are better choices available. It was more of a budget thing for me.

A used roller cam is ok to use if its in good condition. I don't think anyone makes new, stock HO cams.
 

KyleQ

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Apr 24, 2008
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Truck cams from the 351W's are good too- an RV replacement cam would also be a good choice. I would stay away from the Mustang stuff in a 4x4.
 
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skerrybronco

skerrybronco

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Loc.
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EFI swap on a 70's Block+ 5.0 build

Decisions Decisions, sorry to keep bugging you guys
but need to decide on this cam and order one as my engine builder will be continuing after holidays
I dont know the specs of the original H.O.
but here is what comp calls a good replacement,and suggested by my performance guy
Xtreme Energy™, XE264HR
Mild Street Performance, Good H.O. Replacement
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1053&sb=2

and this is a 351 4x4 cam
Xtreme Energy™, XR264RF-HR
Good Low End and Mid-Range, Good Idle

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=894&sb=2

Im leaning on you guys for your experience, and i think it makes sense to stay in the low end power band

need some votes here

thanks Again
 

Viperwolf1

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Well, right away the 35-413-8 says "For engines that DID NOT come from the factory with hydraulic roller cams, NOT FOR E.F.I.". I'd guess that it has a smaller base circle or something that would require different lifters and possibly different pushrods. The shorter lobe separation may not play well with the EFI.

The timing and duration on the 35-349-8 are very close (everything within 2 degrees) to my advanced HO cam. You do get the benefit of higher lift though. With the advanced HO cam and higher ratio rockers you would be almost there.
 

KyleQ

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Apr 24, 2008
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I ran into the not for EFI crap and I called Comp and told them I wanted that 4x4 cam for a roller motor with EFI. The next day they sent me a picture of the grind they came up with for me - your best bet would be to call Comp and just talk to them - they are an awesome company to work with.
 

Crawdad

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Feb 16, 2011
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I'd take the second one. Sorta reminds me of an RV cam which is what I have.
 
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