4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

Yeller · May 14, 2018

Skiddy said:
you talking about in CO? when we were at smoor Nate was telling us about what happened when he was a kid going down it

That's the only one I know of.... there are some good stories about the Devils Punch Bowl between Marble and Schofield Pass too. Things are just about perfect when you can hear rocks tumbling down next to you when your rubbing the wall on the other side

. I've done all do those in a K5. There's no challenge other than stay calm and thread that needle.

nvrstuk · May 14, 2018

Perfectly stated... &#55357;&#56837;

"There's no challenge other than stay calm and thread that needle."

Yeller · Jun 9, 2018

Little info from further back about master cylinders and saved here for posterity. For those of us having issues finding a decent master cylinder i haven't found the perfect solution but at least improved found that Rockauto sells new, not rebuilt units and they aren't much more than a rebuilt crap the either leaks or doesn't work. Here's a pic of the part number and it's an AC Delco part.

Uggg upside down pic........sorry

nvrstuk · Jun 10, 2018

Good to know Steve!! I've tried 3 gasket/cap combinations to no avail... so far...

Going to start looking for a alum bodied/plastic reservoir mc replacement. Only weep/leak on the entire rig...

I might replace those huge J7 calipers in back with J6 to reduce the need for a 1.338" bore...maybe a 1.25" would work and give me options for a different mc bore??!!

I've got killer brakes and you'd think I'd leave "well enough" alone--(never have so far!!) lol

Yeller · Jun 10, 2018

lol I know how that works

I changed to a 9" booster and the new master cylinder and finally feel like they work like they should, now I need to install a pressure valve since the rears now lock up easily, but it stops awesome. Unfortunately I'll never get away with a smaller bore with the 3-1/2" front calipers

nvrstuk · Jun 11, 2018

Glad you found the right combo!! Took me a half dozen completely different mc/disc both frt and rear combos over the decades to get it perfect. I had that with the Tbird front and Exploder rear...course i changed all that agan!! lol.

Current setup works great...weight bias makes a difference so im still dialing it in but i stop on a dime with what i feel is perfect pedal pressure and feel...

Once again Steve, thanks for the mc tip!

sprdv1 · Jun 12, 2018

Steve is the man for sure..

nvrstuk · Jun 16, 2018

Here's a pic of the ORI's and suspension.

Hot Rod buddies are starting to appreciate the design, effort and amount of time into the suspension now...I dont think they could grasp what we do to our rigs before! Went to a car show and never got a chance to sit down as the public and other entrants were asking tons of questions about suspension...opened some eyes to what we do I think.

Pic doesn't show it but the body is sitting level, my buddies in our Hot Rod Club are liking it.

CA Monkey · Jun 16, 2018

that looks great. I know what you are saying about the car show guys coming around to appreciating what the broncos represent. Most of the guys I know don't fabricate much, just order kits and install. Those that do look at my bronco and can't stop asking questions.

bronconut73 · Jun 16, 2018

nvrstuk said:
Perfectly stated... ��

"There's no challenge other than stay calm and thread that needle."

/\Yes Wise words/\ and I don't know shit about no rock climbing,,,,

nvrstuk · Jun 23, 2018

I'm revisiting my strg linkage on my build and I'm wanting to redo my drag link attachment point on my tie rod. In doing so I have the opportinity to correct any design flaw in my original build.

So I started another post asking what the priorities are for eliminating bump steer and any other potential steering linkage issues.

Heres the very short thread and I'll summarize it some breifly below.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3104715#post3104715

Since I was going to move the drag link attachment point on the tie rod I was hoping to eliminate as much of any bump steer as possible thru the entire 16" suspension travel...I'd be very happy just making sure I kept it to a minimum for street and light trail use.

I'd always heard the keeping the track bar and drag link in parallel is the key. I know keeping their angle in relation to the ground helps. I know that having both li ks as long as possible (to a point) is better so with that I followed TS's advice on drawing out the arc of the suspension (track bar and drag link) as it cycles on the shop floor.

UPDATE Summer 2021- Scroll to page #49 as I finally redesigned my track bar mount several inches to the drivers side, moved my strg box fwd, etc to eliminate bumpsteer.

nvrstuk · Jun 23, 2018

In the pics below it shows the arc of the TB (track bar) and DL (drag link) little tough to see in the pic.

I carefully measured from the ground up and the length of each bar.

I then used string to simulate what the arc of the suspension would be as it cycles.

nvrstuk · Jun 23, 2018

Here I drew on the floor the arcs where I was hoping to relocate the drag link on the tie rod.

As you can see by the long arcs that the new location I was hoping for ...would actually be beneficalial . It's actually just about perfect...allowing me to stay within the guidelines that TS says is used by the big boys...and this is throughtout my entire 16" of suspension travel.

I will measure again when all done welding this up.

These drawings on the floor actually saved me a couple days of work since I had planned on building a different pitman arm, relocating my upper pitman arm bracket, and relocating my lower track bar bracket since I was just hoping that making them longer and yet keeping them in the same plane would be beneficial...this is even better.

For once TS actually saved me time instead of making me redo everything differently!!

Mark that on my calendar! lol

I can see by my pics that it would be hard to make heads or tails of them...but the arcs of the track bar and drag link are almost spot on so I'm pleased that it looks like I'm headed in the right direction.
Thanks again guys.

nvrstuk · Jul 8, 2018

After talking to a couple of Bronco guys that like high speed whoop-de-doo's....I"m going to see if I can move my track bar farther over to the DS tire... to do this the PS box has to move, new pitman arm, new track bar bracket, new track bar (w/weld in inserts)...might be a bit but I'll draw some more arcs on the floor when I get a chance...I'm swamped with other projects and am back to actively shopping for a blower...something the engine was spec'd and built for back in '11...wow, has it really been that long???

nvrstuk · Aug 31, 2018

OK...upgrading the spindle nuts and locks...the old school "bend over" tabs were already used and were wearing out so...I ordered new aftermarket spindle nuts and washers without thinking Ford might still be selling them...wish I"d checked OE...I'll post up the problem...

nvrstuk · Aug 31, 2018

Here we go...must be China made as the inner tab on the lock ring won't fit down into the keyway slot on the spindle far enough to let it slide on.

nvrstuk · Aug 31, 2018

So to fix the fix, I needed to fix the problem with the lock washer tab...

First 3 were easy. Put the file on them, narrowed up the tab a little but mainly filed the corners to a good 90deg so it would fit down into the keyway o. The spindle

nvrstuk · Aug 31, 2018

4th one wouldnt let a file touch it...I tried 4 other files...nothing would even shine it up, much less tale off any material.

Update on 9/11 as I was installing the spindle brg lock nuts one of the nuts didnt allow my spindle tool tabs to seat in the slots in the nut..
cheap crap!! Dang...Took out my file and fixed that too...

nvrstuk · Aug 31, 2018

Spent my day helping my buddy and son who just drove in from Charlotte, NC...2800 miles in 5 days!!! Eric, Bronco owner & good friend from decades ago, spent the last 6 months totally rebuilding this '69 Mustang for his son and they drove it from Charlotte...

Great day...

nvrstuk · Aug 31, 2018

Doing some maintenance...

4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

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