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New wild horses m1a1 tank

surfer-b

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Yeah, but never have to worry about rust again, ever.

As long as they purged inside the tank when welding it, if not it will "sugar" and rust just like carbon. I would guess whoever welded it purged it unless they were just trying to save $ an not use so much argon. One of those cheap telescoping mirrors with a LED light works great for looking at welds inside things like this
 

toddz69

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Another question - probably for Jim - on this one. I was re-reading the install instructions again the other day for the eleventyth time and noticed that the fittings appear to be pretty close to some of the screw heads that attach the pump housing to the tank.

If I was to purchase the tank, I would use NPT-AN adapters instead of the barbed fittings and then screw an AN fitting onto the adapter for a cleaner setup. It looks like maybe those fittings would get pretty close to the screw heads.

Has anyone tried anything like this yet? And is there enough clearance?

Thanks,
Todd Z.
 

WILDHORSES

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Another question - probably for Jim - on this one. I was re-reading the install instructions again the other day for the eleventyth time and noticed that the fittings appear to be pretty close to some of the screw heads that attach the pump housing to the tank.

If I was to purchase the tank, I would use NPT-AN adapters instead of the barbed fittings and then screw an AN fitting onto the adapter for a cleaner setup. It looks like maybe those fittings would get pretty close to the screw heads.

Has anyone tried anything like this yet? And is there enough clearance?

Thanks,
Todd Z.

Hi Todd, the clearance has been fine, no issues to report. Here's a pic from a customer showing the use of -6AN parts etc. We like customization so you are not stuck using the barb fittings. They are there and they work great but we figured people would be swapping in some cooler -6AN items if that's the way they want to go.

Jim
 

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toddz69

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Thanks Jim - looks great!

One other question - without asking you to give away any secrets, is the pump a common/well-known brand or model that can easily be sourced in the future if replacement is needed?

Todd Z.
 

DirtDonk

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I'll step out on a limb and answer until Jim has a chance to pop back in with any corrections.
At least until recently (because things can change rapidly in this world!) we were using Walbro brand pumps because over the last couple of years those were the most consistent and quiet of the ones we'd been using. And had been highly recommended from users out in the field too.
The style of pump (again, as far as I know) is the standard "Mustang" style of pump used on most Ford and other brand products from way back.
Now, some of the details may have changed, regarding which sock filter style and clamp and accessory pack, but the pump remains the same.

I believe that they are the standard 255lph pumps, but that's something I'm not sure of. At one point we had used a couple of the higher flow versions, but the 255's are good for some pretty decent performance engines without modification. So I'm guessing that's what we've stuck with.

Just as with the Sherman (or in the past, the EFI version of the NWMP/Sunset tanks) you can get a replacement pump in a pinch at any parts store just about anywhere by asking for almost whatever Ford application you feel like. There are probably 10 different part numbers for the Mustang alone, but most, if not all, utilize the same pump and only differ in regard to the extra fittings and size/shape of the sock filter that comes in the box.
I say "most" because there may be a special "SVO" or "SVT" model that utilizes a higher flow pump, but the fitment would be the same and even the most basic pump would feed most stock and stock-ish EFI builds.

Now after all that we'll see if I'm close, or off-base on some aspects when Jim checks back in. I know a lot of changes were contemplated during the development of the M1A1, and you can see most of them. But the pump I do believe is the same one as in the Sherman.

Paul
 

toddz69

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Thanks Paul - Walbros are good pump and generally pretty easy to find if it's a standard 255lph application. I'm not as familiar with the in-tank units but was curious since there seems to be some variation in connectors, etc. And since this would be my first foray into an in-tank unit after successfully using the same external Bosch pump which is now 30 years old (I paid $20 for an '88 pickup pump at the junkyard when I did my swap in '97), I'm understandably a little nervous about taking the plunge.

As a backup, I would follow Mark Davis' (garberz) lead and keep spare external all wired up and ready to go in case the in-tank pump died. When I talked to Mark awhile back, he had been pumping fuel with that 'backup' pump for over a year!

Thanks,
Todd Z.
 

73azbronco

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Whats the output pressure again? Does fitech need 90psi or so? I think stock ford 5.0 EFI needs 40?
 

DirtDonk

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it's 58psi for the FiTech?
The pump (or at least some of them) are capable of putting out 90-110psi free-flow.
Not sure what their max is, but guessing at least 60psi is not a problem.

And since most aftermarket EFI setups are using pumps that look suspiciously the same as the Ford pump, it's easy to "assume" a bunch. But in this case maybe the assumptions are correct?
Sorry I have not found a definitive info source for the max psi for each pump.

Paul
 

surfer-b

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it's 58psi for the FiTech

correct, the FiTech needs 58~60
99-01 Explorer needs the same
89-93 Mustang and 96-98 1/2 Explorers, the yrs with return, need ~40 psi
 

sykanr0ng

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correct, the FiTech needs 58~60
99-01 Explorer needs the same
89-93 Mustang and 96-98 1/2 Explorers, the yrs with return, need ~40 psi

Those have a regulator at the fuel rail to take the 60 or so psi the pump sends them down to that.
A while back I looked into using that fancy FITech in tank pump for an Explorer EFI, it will work.
 

WILDHORSES

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At this time (8/2/18) we are using the USA made Walbo pumps. Subject to change but no plans to do so at this time.
Basics specs 67gph/255lph
Max 90 psi
It will run 98% of the motors people are using in early Broncos. These pumps have been so reliable I'm considering going to in-tank pump in the Mare and cleaning up all the fuel stuff (filters, pumps, accumulator) on the side of the frame.

Jim
 

surfer-b

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Those have a regulator at the fuel rail to take the 60 or so psi the pump sends them down to that.
A while back I looked into using that fancy FITech in tank pump for an Explorer EFI, it will work.

yes, I would say without that reg the pump would put out maybe 85~90 psi, not sure about that havnt really looked the gph
 

BRONKEN

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Morgan Hill, Ca
At this time (8/2/18) we are using the USA made Walbo pumps. Subject to change but no plans to do so at this time.
Basics specs 67gph/255lph
Max 90 psi
It will run 98% of the motors people are using in early Broncos. These pumps have been so reliable I'm considering going to in-tank pump in the Mare and cleaning up all the fuel stuff (filters, pumps, accumulator) on the side of the frame.

Jim

I'm thinking the along the same line Jim. Clean up my dual fuel system and going to a single in tank pump with an access panel to replace pump if needed. The M1A1 is on the wish list right after a complete re-wire.
 

Bronco4x4

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Any chance for an price break for the newly introduced SS tank (introductory offer)?
 

Bronco4x4

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Hey Paul,
Any plans for WH's to provide a stainless skid plate for the S.S. fuel tank?
Thanks,
AL
 

DirtDonk

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I don't believe so. We've got the standard steel skid plate and that's likely better than good enough for it's use.
I wonder too, if to be an effective skid plate, a thicker stainless material might needed, and be more of price prohibitive.
Do you think it would need to be a thick sheet, or is stainless more bend-resistant by nature? Not sure what stainless costs these days, or if thicker is necessarily that much more costly.

Yes, I know what kind of money people are throwing at their Broncos these days, but I believe that for what is potentially, essentially a sacrificial item, keeping the price as low as possible is a good thing.
Would be nice to be able to leave it unpainted and therefore less "scratchable" than a bare piece of stainless, but I don't think the trade-off is worth it at this point.
Might be no need to touch up scratches, but they might look just as bad as a scratch in paint to some. Assuming the person is going off-road to begin with...

Are you thinking in terms of just having similar materials? Or potential durability differences? Cost? Coated vs un-coated? Better looking?
Or just that stainless-with-stainless seems a better setup?

Let me know and we can certainly pass it on up the line to see what happens.
Pretty sure the mild steel vs stainless is a settled thing and a done-deal, but it never hurts to keep the ideas coming. You never know what set off the old light-bulb, or what might stick.

Thanks

Paul
 

sykanr0ng

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I don't believe so. We've got the standard steel skid plate and that's likely better than good enough for it's use.
I wonder too, if to be an effective skid plate, a thicker stainless material might needed, and be more of price prohibitive.
Do you think it would need to be a thick sheet, or is stainless more bend-resistant by nature? Not sure what stainless costs these days, or if thicker is necessarily that much more costly.

Yes, I know what kind of money people are throwing at their Broncos these days, but I believe that for what is potentially, essentially a sacrificial item, keeping the price as low as possible is a good thing.
Would be nice to be able to leave it unpainted and therefore less "scratchable" than a bare piece of stainless, but I don't think the trade-off is worth it at this point.
Might be no need to touch up scratches, but they might look just as bad as a scratch in paint to some. Assuming the person is going off-road to begin with...

Are you thinking in terms of just having similar materials? Or potential durability differences? Cost? Coated vs un-coated? Better looking?
Or just that stainless-with-stainless seems a better setup?

Let me know and we can certainly pass it on up the line to see what happens.
Pretty sure the mild steel vs stainless is a settled thing and a done-deal, but it never hurts to keep the ideas coming. You never know what set off the old light-bulb, or what might stick.

Thanks

Paul

If they are not going to take it off-road would they spend a couple of hundred more dollars to hide that bling gas tank behind a ho-hum ordinary steel skid plate?

Would stainless show scratches less or more than painted mild steel?
At least the scratches would be the same color.
 

Bronco4x4

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Just thought S.S. would be nice all around. Of course the cost would be higher but one less thing to turn rust brown here on the east coast. You can also offer different thickness (by order) based on the service. A rock crawler vs. light off-roader would be some examples of different end uses. I plan to use some rubber strips between the tank and the plate so no moisture will stay long.
 

Goody

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Sep 12, 2018
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Ordered a SS tank a few months ago. Quality is fantastic and package seems well thought out. I originally was gonna go w/ the TBP tank but read that they are made of galvanized sheet. I intend to do a 4bt Cummins swap in the future and wanted a tank that is SS as diesel and galvanize do not mix, unless you like big boogers of galvanize coating floating around your tank. The flange will be easily modified for the new Fleece lift pump when that time comes. Plus living on the gulf coast, a painted carbon tank is only asking for rust problems later on. Excellent quality of welds made me happy as I originally intended to build a Aluminum tank but this made the choice easy!
 
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