ObscureMachine
Seatbelt Orifice Officer
That looks nice...maybe Broncosbybama will buy it and use is for one of his flips.
HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think I peed a little on that one!
That looks nice...maybe Broncosbybama will buy it and use is for one of his flips.
That seems like an excellent place to start. You should be able to check your coil wire butcher job with an ohmmeter or continuity tester.I'm thinking it may be the new coil wire that I butchered trying to make.
That seems like an excellent place to start. You should be able to check your coil wire butcher job with an ohmmeter or continuity tester.
What kind of ignition system are you running?
And by "alternator wasn't charging the other day", you are speaking of your previous alternator still? Or did you have to replace your most recent one?
Paul
Not a dumb question at all. Yes you can, and you can/should expect to see the light flash 8 times faster than normal. So, if the engine is running you might not notice a difference. But, if you have the key ON and are using a remote starter button to just turn the engine over, you will notice a difference in how fast the light flashes.Dumb question, can you put the timing light on the coil wire?
...Whatcha thinkin' DD?
Oh you know me so well...
First off though, what do you have the Brown wire (#) hooked to? If that's the ignition switch, it's not supposed to be there. It goes straight to the coil's positive wire in a ballast-equipped system.
If you're not running a ballast resistor, you don't need it anyway.
So, at least for this diagnosis, unplug it from the starter relay.
And just so I'm clear, what are the two unlabelled boxes on the right side of your diagram? I thought one was fuse box, and one was ignition switch. But they both look like they might be ignition switch related.
Just wondering.
For testing, if you see a spark event through your timing light, you might just be too far out of time to get it to fire.
If you don't see any light though, try these steps to test the coil.
1. Disconnect the Black distributor wire from the negative side of the coil, and also disconnect the main high-voltage spark wire from the distributor. But leave it connected to the coil.
2. Lay it on the engine or body somewhere near a metal surface, but as far away from the distributor body as possible. If your coil is mounted to a fender, this should be easy. If it's right next to it on the engine though, you might need a longer wire. If needed then, temporarily substitute one of the longer plug wires so you can get it farther away from the dizzy.
More on that in a bit.
3. Since you have power to the positive side of the coil already, turn the key on and, with a small jumper wire, momentarily ground the negative side of the coil. You can use any convenient ground, so the longer the jumper wire, the more choices of good ground you have.
Each time you ground and release the wire, you should get a big fat nasty spark from the business end of the coil wire. If so, your coil is good.
If not, either your coil is bad, or something is wrong with the current supply on the positive side.
Do a resistance check on the coil. I would bet either/both coils are OK, but.. just in case. Now, with voltage on the + side of the coil, one end of the coil wire in the coil and the other end of the coil wire near ground (engine block) take a jumper wire and ground the - side of the coil. Then when you lift the wire there should be a spark from the coil wire. So you should be able to repeatedly ground the - side of the coil and lift the wire, and create a spark.
If you can do that, I would suspect your Pertronix.
By the way, your coil is grounded, isn't it?
I read through those posts and didn't catch that you were specifically looking for a spark at the end of the coil wire when you were touching the ground wire to the - side of the coil. Maybe I just missed it...