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Possible squeal culprit.. what’s this part?

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
From your previous statement about the pinning of the tensioner to keep it in one place, they obviously changed it's function from a tensioner to a simple idler pulley.
Does the alternator fit tightly into that space between the brackets where it was? If not then it looks like it can never be tightened down and will simply pivot on the stud.
If that's the case, then I'm surprised that the home-made tensioning bar was loose. I would think it would have to be tightened all the way to keep the belt tight.

Was the tensioning rod bottomed out? Or did it still have some adjustment in it?

Paul
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,835
Those brackets have been carved (butchered?). All those saw/file marks are where they did there handywork. Wouldn't surprise me that you can't move the alternator, likely part of the bracket has been cut off. This is really pushing the creativity factor. I don't ever recall ever seeing junkyard bracket that extensively cut/reshaped/altered. True custom reworked junkyard parts. Actually pretty amazing in the detail they went through and it looks to have all been done with hand (or handheld power)tools. At best a drill press. The notch to get the alternator offset just right. The shafts look amazingly parallel for the work that was done. The reclocked tensioner might have been pulling in the correct direction now. It might be as simple as tightening up that stabilizer/adjuster to get the belt tension back up. At least for a quick short term fix.
 

DirtDonk

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I think the bottom line here is that you either have to be more clever than the bracket (and the PO), or retreat and advance with a new model serpentine setup entirely.
It's possible that in it's current state, this serp setup will never be able to function correctly in the given space.

Paul
 
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guidoverduci

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
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719
Loc.
NorCal
It might be as simple as tightening up that stabilizer/adjuster to get the belt tension back up. At least for a quick short term fix.

I’d still have the ribbed belt over the smooth tensioner pulley.

The alternator fit tightly when everything was hooked up. The tie rod had room to be tightened and the play in it wasn’t excessive. It just wiggles slightly. He definitely had the tensioner more as an idler. I almost feel like if I could swap that pulley for a ribbed one and maybe tighten everything up, that would be a good fix. Is that a possible swap?
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
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Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,835
Just noticed a few more oddities. That is an unusual routing of the heater hose. Usually it just runs down the passenger side of the intake to the heater control valve and to the heater core. But yours loops around to the Driver's side. Normally that is avoided to keep it out of the throttle linkage.

I also see the vacuum advance on the distributor is capped.
 
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OP
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guidoverduci

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
719
Loc.
NorCal
Here’s some more pics- maybe there’s something else...

The vacuum advance isn’t capped, just an illusion
 

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Hozr

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Oct 15, 2011
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That heater hose routing is crazy! It could be 2-3 FEET shorter and less intrusive. Clock the fitting towards the rear and run it almost straight back.
 

DirtDonk

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Yep, not sure it needs to be that long, but here again it could have been their way of overcoming some other self-inflicted swap headache.
The addition of the filter element on the oil filler tube was rather clever though. At least they kept the PCV system functioning.

Paul
 
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guidoverduci

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Mar 8, 2012
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For now, I just threw everything back together and tightened it down. Fired it up in the garage and didn’t hear any squeaks. I’ll try and get it out for a drive tomorrow if the weather holds up and see if the squeaks come back. I’ll eventually go the explorer serp route but I’ve got other stuff I want to get done first. Thanks for all the info!
 
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