Cold Weather Clutch Failure

pipeline010 · Dec 6, 2018

Ok, bear in mind I know literally zero about transmission systems. Time to learn.

We had some unexpected snow accumulation yesterday so, after arriving home, I engaged the 4wd hi to try it out for the first time. Hadn't prior because the ujoint on the front shaft seemed a little loose.

Drove fine, a bit of vibration and a hi pitched wHine. Planned to change joint on the weekend and parked.

This morning, went out in the cold (about 28 F), started the truck. Shifted to 2 hi, went out to release hubs and they were a bit stiff. I remembered reading a bit of movement in reverse might free them so I got in and backed it up a bit, the clutch feeling a little tight, then forward a bit with the clutch feeling a little loose.

Got out, hubs free. 5 mins later came back out to start commute and the clutch wouldn't engage. At first I thought maybe I had left the tcase in neutral or something else, but eventually put the truck into first gear and let go of the clutch. ...no stall, not even a shake.

Worth noting as of yesterday the clutch was very good, would have stalled out in 2nd gear at 10 mph if you didn't engage the throttle.

I had to get to work so I'm not with the truck. What should I be looking to do when I get home this afternoon? Please keep in mind I know very little of all the linkages that allow the clutch to function. Thanks everyone.

Broncobowsher · Dec 6, 2018

Did the feel of the pedal change?

pipeline010 · Dec 6, 2018

it did.

it usually feels a bit stiff. Right now (as of leaving) it felt somewhat looser. Not free, but looser.

edit/add: it still seats in its proper position when not pressed.

bmc69 · Dec 6, 2018

Might have simply had the actuation rod fall off the clutch fork. Or the z-bar hole wore through...or a link just fell off the z-bar.

It's not rocket surgery..it's a stone simple linkage between pedal and clutch fork. Have someone push on the clutch pedal while you lay under the truck and watch to see what moves what.

pipeline010 · Dec 6, 2018

thanks bmc. Wish I had had a few minutes to poke around before leaving, but had hoped it was as simple as a linkage issue. Even more likely with the cold.

found a video on a 69 ford (same year as mine) truck. He's adjusting the clutch linkage, but looks like it should give me what I should be looking at.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EecOqkY-588

pipeline010 · Dec 6, 2018

mechanics at work seem to think the problem is with the transfer case being stuck in neutral. I do have to get a bit aggressive with it to get the T-shifter to move. It does move, though, so the problem would need to be with the cable or within the t-case not simply the shifter?

Based on what I've written above does that make sense? Would the truck not stall out with a t-case in neutral, the truck in gear, and letting off the clutch? (again, I'm very new to all this, sorry.)

bmc69 · Dec 6, 2018

pipeline010 said:
mechanics at work seem to think the problem is with the transfer case being stuck in neutral. I do have to get a bit aggressive with it to get the T-shifter to move. It does move, though, so the problem would need to be with the cable or within the t-case not simply the shifter?

Based on what I've written above does that make sense? Would the truck not stall out with a t-case in neutral, the truck in gear, and letting off the clutch? (again, I'm very new to all this, sorry.)

If the t-case is in neutral you will experience....absolutely nothing happening when you let out the clutch. The t-case shifter does not have a cable..direct mechanical linkage. T-case failures resulting in permanent neutral condition are exceedingly rare..

pipeline010 · Dec 6, 2018

thanks bmc.

Just so I'm totally prepared, let's assume the issue is with the t-case (if I find no clutch linkage breaks or issues).

The next step is rocking the truck trying to get the gears to unbind? Top off the fluid? Rebuild required? Toss t-case and get a new one?

gnpenning · Dec 6, 2018

Have you tried putting the Tcase in anything other than 2hi?

pipeline010 · Dec 6, 2018

I did pull it around a bit prior to leaving for work, assuming initially that it was a t-case problem.

too much conjecture left at this point, though. I'll be home in an hour or so and should be ready with more questions or at least identifying the specific issue or solution.

bronkenn · Dec 6, 2018

You wouldn't be able to shift the trans in gear if the clutch wasn't working.

Broncobowsher · Dec 6, 2018

Engine running, clutch out.
Shift from 1st to reverse.
Does it crunch/bang? Yes- transfer case isn't in gear.
Lock the front hubs and shift the transfer case into a different gear, any gear. Does it work now?

m_m70 · Dec 6, 2018

My thoughts are T-case in neutral...……..

You did say that you "eventually" got it into first gear which sounds like that was difficult. Can you elaborate on that?? Grinding??
I can't see how the clutch linkage would give the affect of the tranny being in neutral/non movement. Thinking that would give the opposite affect.

pipeline010 · Dec 6, 2018

Broncobowsher said:
Engine running, clutch out.
Shift from 1st to reverse.
Does it crunch/bang? Yes- transfer case isn't in gear.
Lock the front hubs and shift the transfer case into a different gear, any gear. Does it work now?

I'll do this first, thanks bowsher.

I'm reading this as: 'Do not touch the clutch pedal at all and shift the handle from 1st gear into reverse."

ya?

pipeline010 · Dec 6, 2018

m_m70 said:
My thoughts are T-case in neutral...……..

You did say that you "eventually" got it into first gear which sounds like that was difficult. Can you elaborate on that?? Grinding??
I can't see how the clutch linkage would give the affect of the tranny being in neutral/non movement. Thinking that would give the opposite affect.

Sorry, when I said 'eventually into first gear' above, I meant I hadn't thought to try out the clutch function as an issue at all. When I did, I found it slides into and out of all gears (on the transmission) without any grinding. Letting up on the clutch completely without throttle makes zero difference in the behavior of the engine.

m_m70 · Dec 6, 2018

yes with engine running

SHX669 · Dec 6, 2018

Are you sure you're actually shifting the TC into 2 hi ? You said you had a T shift ; do you have the " gear indicator shift cover " with the red pointer and 4 hi,2hi,N,4lo locations ?
Due to the " mechanical " nature of the shift levers and of the indicator cover if the pointer is - pointing - at 2 hi it doesn't necessarily mean the linkage is in the proper position . Not only do the Linkages get worn/ loose but the shift cover/indicator can move . The cover housing has elongated slots so it can be moved forward or backward.
Pull the TC shift lever all the way to the rear { might have to rock back and forth } if the vehicle moves have someone verify the front driveline IS turning . Then push the TC shift lever one notch forward ; if your Bronco moves have some one verify that the front driveline ISN'T turning. If this is the case NOW you're in 2 hi then move the shift indicator housing to match where the shift lever pointer is positioned. Rereading this makes it sound harder than it is - but basically you're verifying that the front driveline is or isn't turning and that the gear indicator is adjusted correctly.

pipeline010 · Dec 6, 2018

Ok, at home. Cotter pin snapped on a linkage dropping out a connector. Bmc was right in the first post. Thanks for the help folks, turned out to be real simple. On my way autoz0ne.

triracer67 · Dec 6, 2018

Replace the other shifter linkage, and clutch pedal cotter Pins while u r at it.

Broncobowsher · Dec 6, 2018

Hate loosing that clutch cotter pin. half the time the linkage hits the ground and disappears forever. I still have a couple of washers welded to an engine pushrod to make a quick link until I could find the proper adjuster. All because the cotter key wore through.

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