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Bronco died...Mean Green starter caught on fire!!

Knaff

New Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
29
Loc.
Salem, OR
I'll try to keep a long story short. Brand new 396 crate motor with FiTech installed several months ago. Installed brand new Mean Green starter as old starter was getting too hot and not wanting to turn over. Thing ran like a dream. Was driving and truck all of a sudden died. Place auto trans into park and tried to start. The truck lunged forward like it was a manual trying to start in gear (very odd). Truck finally did start and I punched it as tide was coming in and didn't want to get stuck in the surf. Just as I landed on pavement, the truck died again and smoke was coming from under the hood. My starter was toast (literally yellow in color). Mean Green will replace my starter but with truck lunging when starting what is this? Also, I took MG starter out and put old one in and when going to start it just clicks. Appears to have enough amps so not sure why engine is not at least turning over. Wires from battery to relay and then relay to starter got really hot. Something goofy with my transmission? Starter relay? Really hoping this is a quick/easy fix.

Thanks!
 

wsager

Full Member
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Dec 3, 2014
Messages
333
C4 transmission? Can you turn it over by hand with the transmission in neutral?
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,884
It took off in gear as soon as you started, but the transmission was in neutral, correct? Either you have a shifter issue or a transmission issue.

It sounds like something is locking up, or already did. Transmission usually won't do that, the torque convertor will slip enough to at least start the engine even if the trans itself is locked up. The front pump is the only thing driven directly by the engine. That leaves the engine. Have you put a bar on the front of the crank and tried to turn it over?

Or I might be overthinking it. Battery going bad. Some bad connection somewhere in the cables. Using the original solenoid with everything?
 
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Knaff

Knaff

New Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
29
Loc.
Salem, OR
C4 trans and I'm not very savvy with engines in regards to turning over by hand. Guessing a socket on the main pulley or something? Truck def goes into neutral as we towed it home.
 
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Knaff

Knaff

New Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
29
Loc.
Salem, OR
Using solenoid on the starter (pretty sure) and stock/old relay. All wires are good and tight.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,884
How far did you tow it home?

The C4 is lubed only when the engine is running. As the engine runs, the front of the torque convertor runs the pump that applys the clutch packs and lubes all the bushings. If the engine isn't running, the lube isn't flowing.

It is as simple as putting a socket on the crank bolt and trying to turn the engine over. But you have to know what to expect. There is drag that is expected. But too much you have something binding or locked up.
 
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Knaff

Knaff

New Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
29
Loc.
Salem, OR
The tow was maybe a half mile and both front/rear diffs were in neutral. Not sure if that helps or hinders but was thinking to be safe I should just have everything out of gear.

I'll try turning it over by hand and await the replacement starter. Will also check to make sure the battery and connections are as good as I think they are.

Thanks!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,490
Installed brand new Mean Green starter as old starter was getting too hot and not wanting to turn over.

Just for clarity, why was it getting hot? Just sitting there next to some headers maybe? Or was it getting hot while cranking?
Does the engine crank normally, as it fairly quickly, or does it always crank a little slow?
What is your compression ratio?
Headers?
Ignition timing?

When the old starter wasn't turning the engine over, was it cranking really slow, or just not at all?

Thing ran like a dream. Was driving and truck all of a sudden died.

Do you have a tachometer and did you just happen to be looking at it when the engine died? If so, did the tach needle just drop like a rock, or did it bounce around a little when the engine was slowing down?
Just wondering if there is an electrical problem or a fuel problem.
Or a mechanical problem.
Hard to say at this point.

Place auto trans into park and tried to start. The truck lunged forward like it was a manual trying to start in gear (very odd).

Very odd indeed! What trans and what shifter? Shifter feels normal and positive shift positions? Any chance you made a mistake in gear selection, or is it nice and distinct?
Is the NSS connected? Perhaps it overheated, wore out, or something is buggered in the wiring. Extra heat will do that, and it sounds like some of your wiring is taking a beating from heat.

Truck finally did start and I punched it as tide was coming in and didn't want to get stuck in the surf.

When it did finally start, how did it crank? Solid and fast, like you would expect? Or lazy and slow, like a low battery or a straining battery?

Just as I landed on pavement, the truck died again and smoke was coming from under the hood. My starter was toast (literally yellow in color).

Could you tell if the smoke was only from the starter? Or could it also have been from some of the wires that you found were hot later?

...but with truck lunging when starting what is this?

As someone already said, an issue with the trans only. Shifter, or mechanism, or internal fault keeping it in Drive but the linkage is telling the Neutral Safety Switch that it's in Neutral or Park and is safe to start.
Best to at least check the NSS soon. Don't want that happening again!

Also, I took MG starter out and put old one in and when going to start it just clicks.

Could be many things at this point.
Battery, cables, connection points, relay, starter, engine, etc...

Appears to have enough amps so not sure why engine is not at least turning over.

How do you know it appears to have enough amps?

Wires from battery to relay and then relay to starter got really hot.

Not good, but consistent with an overworked starter.
What gauge are your battery cables? What condition?
You said the engine is new, but are the battery cables?
Definitely try turning it over by hand. If you have a mechanical fan this is a fun proposition, but it works. Most of us have done it at one time or another. The old socket-on-the-crank-bolt gets it done.
Work slowly and carefully, and wear long wristed gloves!

Starter relay?

If it was not the cause, it could very well be a victim of the overworked and overheated parts. Is it new? If so it's even more likely to have failed.
Perhaps it was actually failing already and caused the starter to hang up. You would normally hear that, but it's possible that with the MG starter's unique sound you didn't notice it when driving. Putting around (or racing around in the dunes!) with the starter spinning is going to build up some heat in some things, that's for sure.
If it's a new relay, since so many are crap right out of the box this is still a perfectly legitimate suspect.

Really hoping this is a quick/easy fix.

Might still be... A few things to check still.
When you first fired up the engine, did you do the specific cam break-in procedure? Is it a flat-tappet or roller cam? Was it a crate engine that was already run and dyno'd, or did you build it and fire it up for the first time yourself?
Have you checked the oil level lately?

Good luck.

Paul
 
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Knaff

Knaff

New Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
29
Loc.
Salem, OR
Just for clarity, why was it getting hot? Just sitting there next to some headers maybe? Or was it getting hot while cranking? Just sitting next to the headers.
Does the engine crank normally, as it fairly quickly, or does it always crank a little slow? You know, I expected it to crank a lot faster with the MG starter than it did. It did crank faster than the old starter but not super fast. Not super slow either but it seems to be hard to turn over.
What is your compression ratio?10.8
Headers? Yes
Ignition timing? Unsure. Motor Works out of Spokane set everything up.

When the old starter wasn't turning the engine over, was it cranking really slow, or just not at all? Would crank very, very slow when hot. Too slow to start motor.



Do you have a tachometer and did you just happen to be looking at it when the engine died? If so, did the tach needle just drop like a rock, or did it bounce around a little when the engine was slowing down? Felt like it just died.
Just wondering if there is an electrical problem or a fuel problem.
Or a mechanical problem.
Hard to say at this point.



Very odd indeed! What trans and what shifter? B&M Pro Stick.Shifter feels normal and positive shift positions? Any chance you made a mistake in gear selection, or is it nice and distinct? Very possible to have made a mistake. Not distinct when looking at selector. Looks like you're in Neutral but you're actually in Drive.
Is the NSS connected? Perhaps it overheated, wore out, or something is buggered in the wiring. Extra heat will do that, and it sounds like some of your wiring is taking a beating from heat. Not sure on this one. I'm not familiar with the NSS but will research, locate and test.



When it did finally start, how did it crank? Solid and fast, like you would expect? Or lazy and slow, like a low battery or a straining battery? Lazy and slow.



Could you tell if the smoke was only from the starter? Or could it also have been from some of the wires that you found were hot later? Bet money the smoke was coming from the starter.
It's a totally different color. All wires look good. They're not new but not super old either and nothing is melted.




As someone already said, an issue with the trans only. Shifter, or mechanism, or internal fault keeping it in Drive but the linkage is telling the Neutral Safety Switch that it's in Neutral or Park and is safe to start.
Best to at least check the NSS soon. Don't want that happening again!



Could be many things at this point.
Battery, cables, connection points, relay, starter, engine, etc...



How do you know it appears to have enough amps? I meant volts. Looks like normal operating range on my gauge anyway.



Not good, but consistent with an overworked starter.
What gauge are your battery cables? They are the size of my pinky finger What condition? Good
You said the engine is new, but are the battery cables? They appear to be fine.
Definitely try turning it over by hand. If you have a mechanical fan this is a fun proposition, but it works. Most of us have done it at one time or another. The old socket-on-the-crank-bolt gets it done.
Work slowly and carefully, and wear long wristed gloves!



If it was not the cause, it could very well be a victim of the overworked and overheated parts. Is it new? If so it's even more likely to have failed.
Perhaps it was actually failing already and caused the starter to hang up. You would normally hear that, but it's possible that with the MG starter's unique sound you didn't notice it when driving. Putting around (or racing around in the dunes!) with the starter spinning is going to build up some heat in some things, that's for sure.
If it's a new relay, since so many are crap right out of the box this is still a perfectly legitimate suspect. The relay looks to be fairly old



Might still be... A few things to check still.
When you first fired up the engine, did you do the specific cam break-in procedure? Builder and installer broke in engineIs it a flat-tappet or roller cam? RollerWas it a crate engine that was already run and dyno'd, or did you build it and fire it up for the first time yourself? Built and dyno'ed
Have you checked the oil level lately? Oil looks great.

Good luck.
 

Boss Hugg

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Jun 8, 2010
Messages
2,142
If the battery cables got hot, it's possible the relay is burnt inside too and maybe not making for good connection anymore.

Just my brain working while reading your post: did something happen to cause the starter to engage while driving? this could've caused it to get that hot and probably would've sucked all the power from the battery causing the coil to lose power and engine to die.

my thoughts are really on the motor mount. with extra heat given your setup, is it possible that the rubber wore out and the engine is laying over a little more and something (wiring stretched??) caused the starter to engage?
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,490
Thanks for the answers Knaff. Helps for sure.
Doesn't tell us 100% what the problem is of course, but it's always a help to get a clearer picture.

And speaking of pics, weld love to see this beast! But not only for checking out the cool new engine, but maybe seeing something up with the wiring too.

Check your negative side of the battery for instance. Does the main ground cable go directly to the engine block? Better if it's nearer the starter motor, but anywhere on the block directly is better than simply bolted to the front, through the cover or a bracket bolt.
I see many bolted to an alternator bolt, which is "ok" too, but if there is rust and/or paint (especially on a new engine?) then the ground is not as effective.

IN addition to the main engine ground, does your rig have an additional wire of at least 10ga running from the battery negative to the body? If not directly, then at least one from the engine to the body would help. But directly is better for some things.

The fact that the wires were hot means that there was WAY too much current passing through them. Either due to them being too small (but does not sound like it from your description), or the starter jamming up, or the starter staying energized when it should have been off after releasing the key, or the engine having an issue with being hard to turn over.
Or, the old standard problem of running too close to the headers.

This is the real reason an MG starter is good though. More header clearance and a more powerful motor with gear reduction to boot.
If you have a few inches of clearance from the header tubes though, you're probably ok. Never hurts to add some shielding, but it might not be strictly necessary at this point.

Maybe it was in fact a defective starter. Not very common with theirs, but like any other product I'm sure it can happen. Good on them for replacing it I think.

Good luck. Let us know how it works out with the new starter.
And get that sucker in Park!

Oh, speaking of which, which transmission is it? If a regular Ford C4 from a truck it would have had a 4-wire neutral safety switch attached to the side of the trans where the shift shaft is. Check that out.
But if it's a different model of trans, you may be needing to hook up your own at the shifter.

Paul
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
"Battery cable to the relay and battery cable to the starter got hot" sounds like it could of wired wrong. Which side of the relay was the battery cable to the starter? If cable is on the wrong side of the relay the starter usually hangs when you swap to a permanent magnet starter.
 
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Knaff

Knaff

New Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
29
Loc.
Salem, OR
For the wiring, I simply disconnected the one wire (positive) from old starter and connected it to the MG starter. Is there anything else that needs to be changed in regards to wiring?

Starter being sent back today. Truck isn't at a location I can get to for a few weeks unfortunately so I'm stuck on trying things out for a bit. I sure appreciate all of the help guys.

More to follow.
 

DirtDonk

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Some MG starters are just the single connection, with an internal connection to the solenoid. So yeah, those are just as you did it.
Some do have an external connector that is often jumpered to the big connector, and while that sometimes gives problems to the factory style PMGR starters, it has not been a problem that I'm aware of on the Mean Green stuff.

Post up a pic of yours when you get it if you don't mind.
So we can see whatcha got.

Paul
 
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Knaff

Knaff

New Member
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Oct 27, 2008
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Loc.
Salem, OR
So brand new MG starter arrived and I have installed along with a new relay. First turn of the key it turned over very slowly and again truck lunged forward. Put both diffs in neutral and turning over very hard but did start and sputter. It died pretty much immediately feel like I'm doing more damage with the attempts. . Motor is not happy. I'm almost feeling like this may be more of a transmission thing but not sure. I think I'm just going to tow to local mechanic. Long shot here but anyone know of a good one near Pacific City Oregon?
 

El Kabong

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Oct 8, 2009
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What gauge is your pinky finger? ;D Mine is about a 4 (stockish cable) but my grandfather had about a 1/0 pinky (HD cable upgrade).

On the serious side, make sure the key is off when trying to turn the engine by hand. Removing the coil wire is the double safe method.

Where is the builder/installer located? It seems like it might be better to start there instead of finding another mechanic. The original guy might have extra incentive to make it work right.

Does it start moving immediately as you crank the starter? Or only after the engine starts to run? If it moves while the starter is cranking, it sounds like a trans/torque converter issue. If it moves only after the engine starts, you should check out linkage/cable adjustment to be sure it is really in park when it says it is. Thinking about it, since it moves while in park, you might want to check the shifter adjustment first. If it were really in park the pawl should try to keep it from moving even if there was some interference going on in the torque converter.

Make sure everything is tight. Loose bellhousing bolts could be the cause of some wierd alignment issues with trans and/or starter.

As for towing, you refer to putting both diffs in neutral. Are you talking about shifting twin sticks inside the cab, or do you have hub locks at all 4 wheels? Twin sticks actually shift the transfer case mounted to the back of the trans, not the diffs themselves. As I understand it the stock t-case it isn't really designed for towing in neutral for long distances. Towing on a flat bed tow, on a full trailer, or removing the rear driveshaft with the front wheels lifted (or front hubs unlocked) is a safer way to go.
 

JaxLax

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Apr 22, 2002
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3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
Gonna throw a weird thought out there, but check your ignition switch.
My starter started to slow turn, then one day it wouldn't stop (even when the key was released) and effectively kept trying to start the engine infinitely. Ended up burning the plastic off my cables with smoke under the hood. Too hot to try and cut the connection, ended up waiting for the battery to just die.

The issue was the old ign switch would not fully disengage. Maybe you've had a lingering issue in the same way and what your seeing as the symptom of hot wires due to slow/constant/too prolonged of a start isn't due to the starter, but the ign switch.
 

DirtDonk

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So back to the lunging, eh? Not a good sign for the transmission, but the bright side is that it might be an indication that the engine is in fact still in good shape.
The reason I say that is that the slow cranking could very easily be related to the fact that the transmission is obviously fully engaged with the tires.

Now, even when that's the case a normally strong starter will still spin almost like normal. But there could be other things going on as well, so we can't rule anything out just yet.
But the bottom line is that you're NOT in Park or Neutral as far as the trans is concerned.
Get that dealt with before someone gets run over!

Paul
 
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Knaff

Knaff

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Oct 27, 2008
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Loc.
Salem, OR
Quick update on this one. Towed to local garage and they determined that the starter solenoid was bad. Replaced that but then.........they also determined that there is a cylinder with zero compression. So the journey continues. Also, I found out from Motor Works in Spokane (engine builder) that this particular motor has a one year warranty (I've owned for 1.5 years). They are going to see what they can do to help after it is determined what is exactly wrong with the motor. I maybe have 350 miles on this so you can imagine my frustration with this thing dying on me. More to follow
 
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