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1975 Bronco project resurrected

Slowleak

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That latch hooks into a loop on the floor. You unlatch it to tilt the seat forward to have access to the rear.
 
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buckroseau

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Mar 15, 2017
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That latch hooks into a loop on the floor. You unlatch it to tilt the seat forward to have access to the rear.

Would u be able to post a pic? I've still have a lot of parts and sometimes in don't know what I'm looking at.
 

Slowleak

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Here you go...
afe33b54af005760410197923b5d9951.jpg
 
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buckroseau

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Mar 15, 2017
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Another questions for the Bronco guru's.

I picked up a tilt steering column today that supposedly came out of a 79 Bronco. I was told by someone a 78/79 Bronco would be a plug and play swap, at least that's what I heard. But, I see a few issues right away.

1. This column is shorter, approx. 5" that the orginal. From what I can tell the larger dia. housing will hit the dash before it can reach the rag joint anyway.

2. Wiring, the new column's wiring is not run internally, do cut holes in the tubing and run internally yourself?

3. The large U clamp that holds the column under the dash. The newer one is flatter, do you cut them both off and swap them?

4. Are the splines for the rag joint the same, assuming none of the above issues stop me from using it?

I found this thread on a google search. If correct I may have a F series column, although it doesn't say it won't work. Personally I think the larger dia. housing hitting the dash may be a deal breaker right away.

http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=270380

Any help would appreciated it.
 

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buckroseau

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Can someone post a pic of the carb for a 302 in this area? I'm not quite understanding how the kickdown from the tranny hooks to the carb? Also, I think I'm missing a few other things.

Thanks, Matt
 

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Rustytruck

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Feb 24, 2002
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10,875
The black kick down rod going to the tranny needs to be put on the top of the throttle linkage on the post sticks out with the E-clip on it. its on the top backside of the throttle linkage on the carb. You can see the E-clip in your picture.
 
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buckroseau

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The black kick down rod going to the tranny needs to be put on the top of the throttle linkage on the post sticks out with the E-clip on it. its on the top backside of the throttle linkage on the carb. You can see the E-clip in your picture.

Got it, thanks! I got this thing started this weekend after 12 years. Newly rebuilt motor that hadn't been run. Ran pretty good except it wouldn't idle.

I feel like I'm missing more like return springs or something. The accelerator would return after the foot pedal is depressed. I've got a pic of some more parts. I think these were in the same box as the carb?
 

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buckroseau

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Another question. This is the voltage regulator plug. It is obviously missing the plastic housing the hold the terminals, I imagine it disintegrated or something when it was taken apart. Is there a company that sells that part?

Thanks, Matt
 

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WILDHORSES

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Thanks for the info Jim. With that knowledge I went out and cut off the bend up steel, fabbed up some new steel and scabbed it onto the old bracket. Looks fairly factory.

Next question: What are my seat options? I would like to use the factory seats, but I am a very, very TALL guy. I heard a tilt column out of a 78/79 bronco would bolt right it, is that correct? Do people also move the factory seats further back? I have to drill holes in the floor anyway. I am planning on putting in a factory rear bench for my kids, will moving the front seats back effect that in anyway?

Thanks, Matt

Nice job on the bracket.
I think you have already figured out the 78/79 column is not going to be a "bolt in" a lot of people use them. We send out a good number of custom lower steering shafts to hook the 78/79 column to the early Bronco box. Check it out here if interested. http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Custom_Lower_Steering_Shaft/Bronco_Steering_Shafts

Seat options, check these out. Moving the seats back should not cause any issue with the rear seat. http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268314&highlight=seat

Good luck with the project.

Jim
 

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Rustytruck

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Another question. This is the voltage regulator plug. It is obviously missing the plastic housing the hold the terminals, I imagine it disintegrated or something when it was taken apart. Is there a company that sells that part?

Thanks, Matt

thats the alternator charge line and power supply line. that feeds power to the amp guage, ignition switch an fuse box and charges the battery. The most important line in the truck. I had to replace The engine compartment side of that line and all that was plug in available was a good use line from the used part suppliers. The end of the line with the fuseable link or the alternator end get pretty abused through out the years in the heat of the engine compartment.
 
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buckroseau

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Haven't posted much for updates in a while, here is a few pics from tonight. What you don't see is how many hours have gone into those doors priming and blocking them out, also welding in patch panels on the right bottom to get that straightened out. Overall it's looking pretty good. Fenders now are going to need a little more love getting the reveals a bit better, I'm hoping to have those jammed and hung by the weekend.

Also going to look at an E series column tomorrow, hoping that will work for my application.

Ordered a new carb last Saturday, hoping to have that by the end of this week. My engine won't idle and I think it's the carb. I was going to rebuild it, but they sell them for a $100 bucks shipped, seemed like a better route to go.

Matt
 

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buckroseau

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Question: Where does this rod go? Is this right? It doesn't seem to lay down very well, also gets in the way of the hood latch. Just seems wrong.

Matt
 

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Slowleak

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That rod should go directly into the hole in the lip of the hood. It looks like there is an eye screw or something sticking out of the hole in yours. That should not be there.

When the rod is stowed, it hooks behind a metal plate on the drivers side of the core support. That should get it out of the way of the hood latch.
e4c01c160b8e996f7e5f0ce925b5ea82.jpg
 
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buckroseau

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Mar 15, 2017
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Drove out of the shop tonight under it's own power and all it took was a new carb, pretty happy about that. Seems to run and idle just fine. Hell of a clunk coming from the rear end when shifted into forward or reverse, possibly low or no gear oil in the rear end, I will have to check that.

Question for the electrical guru's: My oil and temp gauge spike when started. The oil pressure goes instantly to the other end, essentially off the chart. The coolant temp gauge climbs to about 190 instantly and then within minutes slowly climbs and spikes the needle off the gauge. I ran it for about 5 minutes tonight, felt the top hose and it's definitely not that hot.

Just wondering what could cause that?

Thanks, Matt
 

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Skiddy

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Oct 8, 2003
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if you have the correct senders, there is a wire going to ground causing the gauge to peg.
Looking great:cool:
 
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buckroseau

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Mar 15, 2017
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1975 front drum brakes.....what am I missing?? I'm trying to get the front right drum off and this is getting really ugly. I've heated the face with the acetylene torch, got after it with the bfh and then some....Nothing. what am I missing?
 

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Skiddy

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you will have to remove the hub/lockout assembly and bearings to get the drum off
 
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buckroseau

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OK, probably a dumb question. I ordered this brake switch and figured I needed it, I assume something has to trigger the brake lights. I have no idea where it goes and how it fits?
 

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Justafordguy

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It goes on the brake pedal where the rod from the master cylinder connects.
 
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