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ATLAS install

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anythingford

anythingford

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
111
Loc.
Dacusville, SC
Nice job getting it flat - how much did you slot the motor tower to get it to fit? I thought about that but didn't realize you could get the case flat without cutting a huge chunk of frame out of the way...

I went 1410 without a CV front and rear and have had great sucess with it, but I had to take a carbide burr to the front drive shaft to get enough travel out of it WITH my case clocked "traditionally" I'm not sure how much travel you will be able to get with that case flat - maybe time to look at some Northern Drivetrain 1480 drive shaft kits.



This is the slot in the driver side motor mount. The hole is the factory width at the top of the slot, I left it for reference to know how much I cut. The plan is to weld a plate with a new slot in it to tighten up on the motor mount bolt, or a washer that in the same width as the inside of the motor mount. I only cut out about 3/16, and I only needed about a 1/8th. It didn’t take much at all.
 

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anythingford

anythingford

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
111
Loc.
Dacusville, SC
We got to spend a little time on this project. I rebuilt the factory floor structure out of 1x1 tubing. There was a bulk head about an inch inside the factory floor tubing so I notched the new tube to meet that bulk head so it had a little more meat to weld to.

With the support raised to this height and the floor cut out like this, we can remove the atlas without touching the cross member. its a breeze to take out now.;D It measures 1 5/8 from the bottom of the new tubing to the bottom of the factory floor. The top of the new tubing is the same height as the Trans hump under the dash.

I also put the new t case cross member flush with the bottom of the frame so it can help support the skid plate that we will be adding.
 

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anythingford

anythingford

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Nov 11, 2012
Messages
111
Loc.
Dacusville, SC
Started on the sheet metal last night. We are using 18 ga. The large piece will be removable when finished.
 

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anythingford

anythingford

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Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
111
Loc.
Dacusville, SC
We got the seat mounts tied back together. The shifter plate will be removable.

After wheeling with some guys on here, I realized what I was missing out by not having a sidewinder shifter. They are really nice. I installed one on my Bronco a year or so back. So I talked dad into ordering one for this build.

We are pretty much at a stopping point until we get the transfer case yokes. I want to see where the drive shaft ends up before i finish the front of the trans tunnel cover. The cover on the driver side is just tacked for now in case of a future change once we get the shafts in.

Since the transfer case is so high, the boot ring was too narrow to get around the base of the shifters. I guess it was designed to be much further up on the shifters. The boot is oriented wrong the way i have it placed. Maybe we can make a boot, or one of you guys knows of a boot that is oriented this way. All I have found in my searches is a normal boot. Maybe I should have checked that before cutting the hole. . . . haha. I attached a picture of the boot we have. I guess it will work, it will just look a little funny.
 

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Yeller

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
5,884
Loc.
Rogers County Oklahoma
Last edited:
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anythingford

anythingford

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Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
111
Loc.
Dacusville, SC

KyleQ

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
5,480
Awesome, I need something similar too. LOVE my sidewinder - nothing lets me beat on my built C4 than the sidewinder. I swear I banged 1 and 2 five times off the rev limiter climbing some long sandy hills.
 
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anythingford

anythingford

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
111
Loc.
Dacusville, SC
Awesome, I need something similar too. LOVE my sidewinder - nothing lets me beat on my built C4 than the sidewinder. I swear I banged 1 and 2 five times off the rev limiter climbing some long sandy hills.

Yesir, you can’t beat them! One of the best upgrades to my rig.
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
Nice work...

We got to spend a little time on this project. I rebuilt the factory floor structure out of 1x1 tubing. There was a bulk head about an inch inside the factory floor tubing so I notched the new tube to meet that bulk head so it had a little more meat to weld to.

With the support raised to this height and the floor cut out like this, we can remove the atlas without touching the cross member. its a breeze to take out now.;D It measures 1 5/8 from the bottom of the new tubing to the bottom of the factory floor. The top of the new tubing is the same height as the Trans hump under the dash.

I also put the new t case cross member flush with the bottom of the frame so it can help support the skid plate that we will be adding.
 

74BroncoCO

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
2,374
So you got away from notching the frame by raising the Atlas up above it? And with no body lift, you are cutting a significant amount of the tunnel and floor board?

The double boots I got from Atlas promptly cracked. I haven't fixed that yet, but perhaps two singles would work better?

My biggest issue is rear driveline angle, so I ended up with a flange at the T-case down to a 1310 at the axle. It works, but I know if the whole axle droops, I am near it's limits. Someday, I will move the rear back a few inches to help alleviate this. But the flat belly was well worth it!!
 
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anythingford

anythingford

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
111
Loc.
Dacusville, SC
So you got away from notching the frame by raising the Atlas up above it? And with no body lift, you are cutting a significant amount of the tunnel and floor board?

The double boots I got from Atlas promptly cracked. I haven't fixed that yet, but perhaps two singles would work better?

My biggest issue is rear driveline angle, so I ended up with a flange at the T-case down to a 1310 at the axle. It works, but I know if the whole axle droops, I am near it's limits. Someday, I will move the rear back a few inches to help alleviate this. But the flat belly was well worth it!!

It had more to do with slotting the motor mounts. My crawler has a 1 inch body lift so there was more room to get the radius of the atlas on top of the frame. This build is inside the frame on the driver side.

We did cut a lot of floor out. It’s going back in pretty good so far, it’s just obvious it’s not original bronco but it is a trail rig.

Our rear angle seems fine, it’s the front that is a concern, but I believe it will work. It only get questionable at full droop on both sides and that’s pretty rare, unless he starts jumping it haha.
 
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