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Old 07/17/17, 11:34 AM   #1
sneditch
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When I told you it was a good investment I assumed you knew your labor is free.

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Slip yoke ain't slippin'

Just about finished up with what was initially a bushing replacement. Front axle is back in with 7deg radius arm bushings...most importantly no more lean!!

When putting the drive shaft back in it is now about 1" short. I assumed this is due to the pinion angle dropping down due to the new bushings. I removed the shaft however and can see the slip yoke is frozen solid. I've been putting heat on it and alternatively soaking in pb blaster.

Would appreciate a sanity check on if this is the right approach? Or am I wasting my time and should replace new to avoid balance issues etc?
I am not planning much offroad other than an occasional fire trail, etc. Still running a D30. Would prefer to keep the stock shaft and release/repair the slip yoke - unless this frozen yoke implies its spent and I need to replace.

Thoughts, questions - please send. I am in deep FNG learning mode - your helpful insights are much appreciated.

Cheers

Shon
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Old 07/17/17, 12:12 PM   #2
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It could be rusted but I would think that would work loose with the heat cycles. I would try popping the zerk fitting out and putting some penetrant in there. Could be suction holding it in too. Have you tried pumping in some grease?

'73 in progress. 302, 3 On the Floor, 2.5" Suspension, 33's, 4.11:1
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Old 07/17/17, 12:23 PM   #3
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Normally we think a tight fitting slip joint is a good thing! Can't remember the last time we saw one stuck like that sneditch. Did this one sit around for a long time by any chance?

I would think it's usable still, unless you get it apart and find the splines are actually twisted or squidged out and are just binding. In that case you will need to replace.
Rust can be treated and the splines cleaned up with a file, but damages splines should warrant a new shaft.
Does it move at all within a certain range? Or is it stuck solid right where it is?

You can actually get a local shop in many areas to replace just the slip shaft sections, but it's often less expensive (unfortunately) to just buy a new shaft. If you find a shop that will do it for under $125 though, that's money well spent.

In the meantime of course, you can simply leave it out. You don't have 4wd naturally, but you don't have it now anyway.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

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Old 07/17/17, 12:24 PM   #4
sneditch
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When I told you it was a good investment I assumed you knew your labor is free.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by broncodriver99 View Post
It could be rusted but I would think that would work loose with the heat cycles. I would try popping the zerk fitting out and putting some penetrant in there. Could be suction holding it in too. Have you tried pumping in some grease?
Hey @broncodriver99 - I did pump about 6 shots of grease into the zerk..haven't put much heat or time into it though - thought I would ask before I got too far down this path. I will keep on it and see if I can free it.

Thx
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Old 07/17/17, 12:28 PM   #5
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Nice looking rig too by the way!
Just a comment on your steering setup. It looks like your tie-rod still needs to rotate up slightly.

It's hard to see with the stabilizer shock's mounting bracket in the way, but you can look while you're under there to see if the pivoting points of the upper and lower draglink ends are at the same working height as the eyes of the trackbar.
Looks like you have a slight amount of leeway in raising the lower draglink location to bring the two bars more into parallel, but it's hard to say for sure from the pics.

Either way though, bringing the angle of the lower draglink rod end up slightly would benefit steering feel.
In other words, loosen all six adjuster sleeve clamps and twist the tie-rod centerlink to get the zerk fitting pointing up more at the radiator than the bumper or facing forward. The proper angle as about 60 up.
This reduces the tendency of the tie-rod to "roll" while you're steering.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 07/17/17, 12:30 PM   #6
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The problem I see with using grease with a really stuck shaft is that the grease cap might actually pop out of the bottom of the lower shaft (you can see it just behind the u-joint) before it does any good with the shaft.

Still, you might get lucky. Probably worth a shot at this point since it can't hurt anything to try. The shaft is unusable as it sits, so go for anything that gets the job done.

Good luck.

Paul

'71 Wagon, 3.5" WH, F150 disc brakes and steering, 4.11 33x11.50 Thornbirds, Kayline soft top, Hanson bumpers. "Built, not bought"

'68 LUBR, 2.5 + 1 WH, 31x10.50, 4.56, Explorer and 4R70w by EFI Guy, WH disc brakes, Hanson front bumper, Warn winch. "Bought, not built"

www.wildhorses4x4.com
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Old 07/17/17, 12:47 PM   #7
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Pull the u-joint. Then pull out the cap at the end of the yolk, then use a bar down the center and push out the splined end from the yolk. Assuming you have access to a press and maybe a bearing splitter for support on the press. You will likely have to tack weld the old cap in place or make a new end cap. Make sure you mark the yolk and the shaft so you can put them back together. Either that or chain both ends of the driveshaft and use a port a power to pull them apart.

1974, stock 302, C4, BFG KM2 33x12.5x15, 8in rim, detroit rear, trutrac front 4.11 gearing, Warflairs,2.5" lift, chevy disc conversion, Hydraboost, owned since Christmas Eve 1977
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Old 07/17/17, 01:40 PM   #8
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When I told you it was a good investment I assumed you knew your labor is free.

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Originally Posted by Rustytruck View Post
Pull the u-joint. Then pull out the cap at the end of the yolk, then use a bar down the center and push out the splined end from the yolk. Assuming you have access to a press and maybe a bearing splitter for support on the press. You will likely have to tack weld the old cap in place or make a new end cap. Make sure you mark the yolk and the shaft so you can put them back together. Either that or chain both ends of the driveshaft and use a port a power to pull them apart.
Thanks @Rustytruck - I am not aware of this method - will keep in mind and try it out if necessary.
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Old 07/17/17, 01:45 PM   #9
sneditch
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When I told you it was a good investment I assumed you knew your labor is free.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtDonk View Post
Nice looking rig too by the way!
Just a comment on your steering setup. It looks like your tie-rod still needs to rotate up slightly.

It's hard to see with the stabilizer shock's mounting bracket in the way, but you can look while you're under there to see if the pivoting points of the upper and lower draglink ends are at the same working height as the eyes of the trackbar.
Looks like you have a slight amount of leeway in raising the lower draglink location to bring the two bars more into parallel, but it's hard to say for sure from the pics.

Either way though, bringing the angle of the lower draglink rod end up slightly would benefit steering feel.
In other words, loosen all six adjuster sleeve clamps and twist the tie-rod centerlink to get the zerk fitting pointing up more at the radiator than the bumper or facing forward. The proper angle as about 60 up.
This reduces the tendency of the tie-rod to "roll" while you're steering.

Paul
Hey Paul - good input on the front end configuration. I was thinking I would eventually post more pics of everything together to have you and the team here provide input - I have relatively no experience with suspension or my new Bronco for that matter - learning as I go! I will have a look at the tie rod ends and share details soon.

Cheers

Shon
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Old 07/17/17, 01:50 PM   #10
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I would be careful heating it. The splines have a plastic coating and may melt.

77 Bronco, 302, 4bbl, Hei, C4, PS, PB, BCB-A/C, 33" KM2s, D44/Lock-Right Chromo axles, 9"/Grizzly locker, 2.5" sl, 1" bl, Bilstein shocks, 1 ton steering, JB-fab twin stick, D20,

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Old 07/17/17, 02:48 PM   #11
sneditch
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When I told you it was a good investment I assumed you knew your labor is free.

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I would be careful heating it. The splines have a plastic coating and may melt.
@justafordguy - great point as well. I read a bit about this and was concerned about melting. I have a 24hr soak going on the pb blast...hopefully enough to knock this thing free---or I am buying a new DS. In any case, learning how to sort this stuff out...good times!
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Old 07/17/17, 06:02 PM   #12
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you did remove the collar at the slip joint right, also see if you can push it in and get some movement

Tried True Ford Blue RIP my brother Mstark
74 Bronco with Mustang 5.0 EFI w/painless harness, C4, 4.56 gears, D20 twin stick, 35's, 2.5" SL, 3" BL, rear spool, Grizzly front locker D44, full cage, 5pt harness. bla bla
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Old 07/18/17, 11:27 AM   #13
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With steady light tension pulling them apart (2 cable come along, with the cable wrapped around each end, on each piece. Remove the zert so you do not break it off, then rubber/rawhide mallet and tap tap tap.

I would not put the part you want to move in the vice.

Hammer, correct size socket (not your good craftsman if you use a ballpeen) and a block of wood for the u joint removal trick.

1971 302 35" Boggers 5.38 spool/locker and some other mods.

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Old 07/18/17, 11:53 AM   #14
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You can also just beat the short end of the shaft down on a block of wood, ie making the drive shaft shorter, just to get it moving. Then work on pulling it out longer. I recently had to do this and work the shaft shorter and longer all the while greasing and cleaning it.
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Old 07/18/17, 01:46 PM   #15
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I went through this awhile ago with both shafts. Got the front free, never could get the rear to budge, ended up replacing it. Make sure you unscrew the cap on the slip yoke and spray pb down there and in the zerk hole with the fitting out. If you know someone with a parts washer give it a soak for a few days.

71 Sport, 302 w/RV cam, 4bbl. Edelbrock, Duraspark ignition 3 speed floor shift, 2.5" SL, 1" BL, 31's on stock steel wheels.
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