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RENAMED THREAD: Jims constant need for sheet metal answers

ObscureMachine

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Is there an order to replacing floor parts? I have multiple panels that need to be replaced, especially for where the roll cage connects. Is there an order as to what goes first, second, etc.? I'm talking about does "tab A need to go into slot B" or things get whacky. Here's a pic of what is rotten and potentially questionable.

I would love some pics or threads of the process of replacing floor parts/panels. What goes first, then next. Where they attach to what. ANYTHING would help me get some clarity on what's coming up.

Thanks! Jim
 

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Hella.Stoked

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I know the seat area sucked cuz of all the holes to drill to weld through, but after that I did the bed piece then placed the 4 corners in...the passenger floor was a breeze. Try if you can to use the seat area old metal as a template for the seat holes and stuff. I forgot to drill holes for the pass seat latch but later got the old piece from the trash and flattened it out and drilled them...
 

rydog1130

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I did the pre assembled floor pan and rebuilt my bed from scratch ...so not much advice from me
 
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ObscureMachine

ObscureMachine

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So here's what came back from the sandblaster. Pretty much everything on the floor has some rot (some have lots) save for the driver floor pan and the tunnel (plus firewall.
 

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Ethansdad73

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Hope this helps a little
541a9fa08acba8cf4c0d136ca4783a51.jpg


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

rydog1130

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Those corners on your wheel wells will be easy. I would do your front pans first then tackle the bed. You should be able to trim and then zip your new pans into the floor channel supports w/ som self tapping sheet metal screws. Once those are in go on to your bed and do the same thing. Once its all fit together take a screw out at a time a plug weld it together.
 
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ObscureMachine

ObscureMachine

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Those corners on your wheel wells will be easy. I would do your front pans first then tackle the bed. You should be able to trim and then zip your new pans into the floor channel supports w/ som self tapping sheet metal screws. Once those are in go on to your bed and do the same thing. Once its all fit together take a screw out at a time a plug weld it together.

That's my plan. Does it matter if the seat platform goes in before or after the bed?
 
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ObscureMachine

ObscureMachine

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Today's questions:
1. Rear striker post replacement: is this going to kill me? I barely know how to spot weld? Or, can my fab guy fab and repair the striker and the support?

2 what exactly does the wheel well attach to? What's the best way to remove it?

Thanks!

Jim
 

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bronkenn

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The wheel well attaches to the inner quarter and the rear floor and the two fillers attach to the wheel wells. I always run a panel cutter on an air hammer around the perimeter of the piece I'm replacing to access the spot welds then drill them out. If that is the only bad spot on the striker post, I would graft them in. If your not changing the quarter panel it will be easier to patch them. A little at a time and before you know it you'll be done. Ken
 

rydog1130

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That's my plan. Does it matter if the seat platform goes in before or after the bed?

you could put it in before the bed, I don't think it matters to much, the flange on the bed slips underneath the seat pan section.
 

rydog1130

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Today's questions:
1. Rear striker post replacement: is this going to kill me? I barely know how to spot weld? Or, can my fab guy fab and repair the striker and the support?

2 what exactly does the wheel well attach to? What's the best way to remove it?

Thanks!

Jim

That's really not that bad, you could buy a new a new striker post brace but really if you have a vice you could make some patches for those areas with some 18 ga sheet metal. They're not that bad.

Your wheel well has a flange that is spot welded to the inner quarter, and the bed has a flange that's spot welded to the pick up bed.
 

Jamie Chriss

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Feb 28, 2015
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Keep it up, I am about a month ahead of you doing the same stuff! One thing leads to another.
 

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