Hurricane Turbine Cyclone Western Wheels Rims

boonz28 · Oct 23, 2012

Franko,
I'm glad they made it to flordia and that you'll get some use out of them. I really like the look of those rims but i wanted to go to 17s for the extra clearance.

Tito really is the man! i've only known him a couple of months and i already owe him a favor... ;D

Make sure you post up some pictures Franko whenever you get those rims cleaned up. I'm looking forward to seeing what you have planned for them.

xltbeast · Apr 24, 2013

Anyone know who these are made by/called.
They are 15x7.50 and I did find a small stamp that I believe says "FDI, Inc 1976"

wheel 3 by shall1987, on Flickr

wheel 2 by shall1987, on Flickr

wheel 1 by shall1987, on Flickr

FRANKO289 · Apr 24, 2013

xltbeast said:
Anyone know who these are made by/called.
They are 15x7.50 and I did find a small stamp that I believe says "FDI, Inc 1976"

wheel 1 by shall1987, on Flickr

refer to post # 3 ... same wheel yours a 7.5 / mine a 10" !

xltbeast · Apr 24, 2013

Thanks Franko. I read through the whole thread and missed it in the third post.....

McLeod · Apr 11, 2017

FRANKO289 said:
# 1 .... is called TURBINE made by E-T IND in Cal. ( in the 70s ? )

I just picked up a set of these exact wheels in 15x10.
They need to be refinished.

What do you recommend for cleaning the grunge off of them?

Do you know where to get center caps that fit the + 4-1/4" dia. center hole?

FRANKO289 · Apr 11, 2017

fantastic wheels ...and interesting since they are rare in 15x10s !
You are the 3rd person in the last 4 weeks who ask me about E-T IND Rims ... got pix ?

McLeod · Apr 12, 2017

After cleaning them up a little this morning, I can't find any markings on them that would denote the manufacturer, size or weight rating.
Notice all of the beads are leaking, but they sat flat for quite a while.

I see a little bit of difference in the mounting flange (on the back side)- mine is solid and yours has indentations between the stud holes.
Also, my outer bead area has a raised detail where yours are smooth.

Also, it looks like your center hole has an embossed edge whereas mine doesn't.
From what I can tell by looking at Google images, mine are Keystone Turbo 3 wheels.

I think I am going to use acetone to clean out the black paint, then maybe try some clr or flitz aluminum pre-clean to get the corrosion out, unless a better alternative is suggested.
Thinking of leaving the wheel as a cast look (no paint) and just polish the outer edges of the fins and bead area.

Mine came with newer lug nuts for 3 of the four, and no center caps. Think I will use stainless steel ones on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2A8N6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2H4CE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

5001craig · Apr 12, 2017

Franko--You are the man!

Here's my set of E-T Ind. Turbine wheels in 15 x 10. ;D

pR6EYajfMR7FazZgHaEfWxh66_gtDMxpkyyXQF9ft1r-I9RRUzm_j4dVH12uZCEhi0soDxlJaaLP-_l-blPdGfdxVemesEeUQIeOTaksGuT5iXm0tg3s5avWxn8GNBci4Luyl3DDNUUDyjV1-P26LI_4WoUkTlXWr_1DllwombYHvU6E7AuixZfkdo9IJffA5QRlnko6FbX8CM8J53lp7OPrTqTAUDz8iO8r_HaR0JhsSWxCyaLBbaZ6liWdKzjMTXTxT2deNO94yAjwGi_wHMDyUDUqRazidqinS7xKcdAU6gSgP5B7PAbhDc06OSDKbl0lf1_pEXpgzXyubxK_8RuVyME8qpXWEae-QLMyTCcjLVm2_kM6qSAuBjA5DW3h2a4xT5m1QDQU7eJSBKCI0sm7qJp7I427kzvJ0LhxbL2xcHDmzqcXULaj3J4LdAr6SLEwlE1yK6SJbTJdUn8bgkr1gP0y068G22-A4T-es5xm-bg3AuT2qIUYEeMntk0Rvflzb4plZL9bZmXg9DdfVRMwCh1pPhq02S6vhog1BvLi2Yd5UxNZqi-zmVQMX_dI2zUn0X_2zU3W6yqwHMJ4NzyB5QVA5D_Svua4h3p0LskKPzMDG8RBBw=w686-h914-no

83nplGodmSfC07Ffr-DGyX1nzN_q83x2tIc0gujqL0NTHrFhxSjkp4R3sf-iUams0068i6_H0OyHW3i9hJgy4AciUqdxAPwrD9BB8ZdcdkGpPo1CbH58szwT-UFet4m0wJq69uzpZwDEpgAGEe4sOfeo3eAhqn9KvWWHfVi9RrdudiyrxRdA-FTuQdjWpKD8TRR2eg_9e8LVZFqN2tuaTwLu9yOwV8PZQm-EKwxsCSb-XkwfHC6Jthxhsw87ldxCwE9STt82-wKbRCCQyDNWORHzhVxiPMUKF5Bivq0_XHRgJ2YnJ-NajB1F3fJTl07YmpY76c9iOJLUyIiXYiSsrqgHs-oZJ_C5Tg5swl1nR2FF9mvLzCte_ADoPEkj-ieKECHgucAK2ew7dApv-76fHWqddaIy3cHUpF_POIir6rKkCovoEf8yiddtWen5aID7KI6QyHj_tjXsg1VcbajxUqMQcDsJwhbxJqOZXv0ZGA8FLaYqTCiA43Jutha-Zbm6FmR_r0S_cgG4ZNXr4Wrif9sA-M2Wm_OmRd4i-7l0t8wQs5Vc2YSzHGeTvkrx6PNN7b_QZZH7bQ8AkUVJlxjkyEsrwZE7Ln8iQDpZ_HHdCFQ8hw7kPgH07g=w686-h914-no

Now I just need to figure out how to get them looking like new and find a set of lug nuts for them. I'm stoked!

DirtDonk · Apr 12, 2017

McLeod said:
...Notice all of the beads are leaking, but they sat flat for quite a while.

Great looking set there McLeod.
Not surprised the beads are leaking though, even if they hadn't sat flat for awhile. Those tires are possibly 30 years old or more. Likely not safe to drive on at more than neighborhood speeds.
Those Sears Trailhandlers were one of my favorite all-around tires. Great road manners and good traction on the rocks.

Enjoy the restoration process on the wheels. They already look pretty great as-is.

Paul

McLeod · Apr 12, 2017

Thanks Paul- I just stumbled into them too.

The tires are dry rotted and aren't even good as rollers because they don't hold air.
I was looking for a date code on tires and these seem to be pre date code era. My guess is they were new in mid to late 90's (and they actually say "Made in USA"- how rare is that today?)

5001craig · Apr 12, 2017

McLeod--Those look awesome! What did you use to clean them up?

Looks like we like the exact same wheels.

McLeod said:
After cleaning them up a little this morning, I can't find any markings on them that would denote the manufacturer, size or weight rating.
Notice all of the beads are leaking, but they sat flat for quite a while.

I see a little bit of difference in the mounting flange (on the back side)- mine is solid and yours has indentations between the stud holes.
Also, my outer bead area has a raised detail where yours are smooth.

Also, it looks like your center hole has an embossed edge whereas mine doesn't.
From what I can tell by looking at Google images, mine are Keystone Turbo 3 wheels.

I think I am going to use acetone to clean out the black paint, then maybe try some clr or flitz aluminum pre-clean to get the corrosion out, unless a better alternative is suggested.
Thinking of leaving the wheel as a cast look (no paint) and just polish the outer edges of the fins and bead area.

Mine came with newer lug nuts for 3 of the four, and no center caps. Think I will use stainless steel ones on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2A8N6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2H4CE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

On second look, yours are different than mine.

DirtDonk · Apr 12, 2017

Hah! Rare as hen's teeth I'd say!
Actually I do think there are still some rubber factories hereabouts somewhere. Certainly not as many as in the hey-day though I'm bettin'.

Definitely pre-date codes. Not even serial numbered back then. The "serial" numbers on the sidewall were actually batch numbers. Batches of 100 for that particular tire if I remember.
I found that out because someone broke into my storage room and stole three of my 33x12.50x15's. Brand new, waiting for the rest of the Enkei wheels that I was paying off slowly at Super Shops.
Couldn't afford to replace them all so I went with 32x11.50's and 7" wheels to save money instead.

Actually found them for sale in the newspaper a week later, but the police said I needed a serial number or sequence to prove that the three brand new tires were mine. Learned about the number system, went to the guys house and verified that they were from my batch at least. Just no way to prove they were mine.
Oh well. Another lesson learned.

Paul

McLeod · Apr 12, 2017

Okay- I spent all day in the rain playing with chemicals and the garden hose and didn't manage to get two wheels completely done.

They did come a little bit cleaner still:

and I did find marking on the back after I cleaned off the black paint:

I am assuming "01-77" was manufacturer date, but not entirely sure what W.D.I. refers to.

I located a NOS set on Ebay (for $900) and these are visually identical in every way to mine (except size and bolt pattern) and they are Keystone Turbo 3's:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182497699224?ul_noapp=true

What I initially cleaned wheel with is Purple Power and scrub brush, but did it quick because I have read where PP sometimes discolors aluminum.

I then turned my attention to the black paint by using spray on type paint stripper. A tooth brush and steel wool helps get it off - (use rubber gloves)
Did this three times....

I then washed the formerly painted areas down with acetone and a paint brush.

After drying, I then used Eagle etching mag cleaner (don't breath it in and use gloves) and medium steel wool - did this three times. A fine sanding sponge works good on the larger areas too.

As you can see by the above picture, it still needs some more work to be really clean, but maybe I will paint inner surfaces black again and not worry about it..

I had someone ask me today if these were aluminum or magnesium, but I have no idea how to tell the difference.

McLeod · Apr 12, 2017

And I hope nobody minds that I have lifted the pictures from the ebay listing hoping that it might help someone in the future identify what they have.
Keystone Turbo III's from ~1978

Link to the ebay page:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182497699224?ul_noapp=true

15" X 7 " VINTAGE NOS KEYSTONE TURBO 3 TURBINE WHEELS. 5X5 LUG PATTERN
$900 -Buy it now
Purchased new in 1978 for a Chevy van and never used. These have been in my fathers closet since 1978 . You can see the the mfg date of 6/8/78 stamped on the box. 3 cartons are unopened and the 4th was opened for the photo's only. NOS never used. 15x7 5 on 5 lug pattern. You are getting 4 new wheels and center caps.

Vector, slotted, hurricane, western, cyclone, turbine

DirtDonk · Apr 13, 2017

I wonder if your "WDI" could stand for Western somethingorother? You say yours are Keystones for sure? The Western Cyclone was a very popular version of that style of wheel around here back then.
Not sure what the "DI" part of it would be for, but "Western D-something Industries" maybe? Or maybe "Wholesale Distributors Inc" perhaps? Notice that other set from a few years ago had "FDI" on the back with a manufacturing date in '76. Some similarities cropping up here...

The first thing I think of when I see WD anything is the old "Wholesale Distributors" which were a superstar flash-in-the-pan wheel and tire reseller that was out to put everyone out of business. But like so many of those companies, they end up going under themselves. Didn't even last as long as SuperShops did.
I wonder if they had contracted to have a wheel manufacturer private label some for them? Not too far-fetched I wouldn't think.
I bought my first set of Armstrong Tru-Tracs from them. Waited in line at a warehouse roll-up door hoping to get in before they sold out.;D Paid $49 bucks a piece and thought it was a lot of money!

The stamped "K" is likely more of an inspection/pass element, rather than anything to do with the manufacturer, but it's hard to say what they might have done back then. And K was a popular letter to find on wheels (along with KH), so it's possible the mark is there to denote it being made for someone by Keystone or Kelsey Hayes.
That's the first thing that comes to mind whenever I see a K on the back of a wheel at least. Could be any number of other things.

But I'm thinking that any real manuf. markings would be cast into the wheel along with the other stuff. Rather than a stamp like an afterthought.

Paul

DirtDonk · Apr 13, 2017

Oh, and I assume by "identical" you mean just the style and not the bolt pattern, correct?
Yours should be 5 on 5.5 for an EB, vs the 5 on 5 that the eBay ones are.

Paul

McLeod · Apr 13, 2017

DirtDonk said:
Oh, and I assume by "identical" you mean just the style and not the bolt pattern, correct?
Yours should be 5 on 5.5 for an EB, vs the 5 on 5 that the eBay ones are.

Paul

Yes, you are correct.
I have just edited prior statement to reflect this.

McLeod · Apr 13, 2017

5001craig said:
Now I just need to figure out how to get them looking like new and find a set of lug nuts for them. I'm stoked!

Make sure that the lug nuts are correct for your application. Some earlier wheels used special or odd size nuts and washers.
Something I have seen many times is the washers are too small for the washer relief on the wheel, which allows it to loosen and move around while in motion.

Don't Do's:
http://www.prestigewheel.com/Catalog/Do_Donts.pdf

McLeod · Jun 26, 2017

I finally got these done.

I discovered that one of my wheels had slightly egged out bolt holes, so I decided to convert all four wheels from mag style lug nuts over to the more modern(and arguably safer) conical style lug nuts.

I had a machine shop ream the bolt holes to the proper dimension and then I pressed the inserts into place.

I then cleaned the wheels yet again before painting them with VHT satin black polyurethane wheel paint.

I also got stainless steel center caps through amazon.

Due to the thickness of the mounting flange on these wheels and the fact that the wheel studs on earlier vehicles were shorter than newer vehicles, I decided to get extended "ET" lug nuts so I could ensure the minimum 10 revolution thread engagement required on 1/2 wheel studs. The standard lug nut was only giving me ~5 revolutions of engagement and was borderline unsafe.

I am pretty happy with the results, but if I had to assign a dollar amount into the amount of time I have into these things, boy would they be unrealistically expensive.....
and they are far from perfect....

73KBO · Jun 26, 2017

Those wheels look great!

Hurricane Turbine Cyclone Western Wheels Rims

Sr. Member

New Member

Bronco enthusiast

New Member

Full Member

Bronco enthusiast

Full Member

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Full Member

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Full Member

Full Member

Bronco Guru

Bronco Guru

Full Member

Full Member

Full Member

New Member

Similar threads