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Garage build?

fordguy

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Bronco Guru
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Jan 23, 2005
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5,497
Listen to Franko he will not steer you wrong. parallel chord trusses are your friend
 
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Ict57

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2016
Messages
133
Franko—really appreciate the input. Obviously I’m pretty new to this. I hadn’t thought about doing a ‘double’ truss in main garage for a hoist but that’s an interesting idea. I already built a small gantry crane from another project and also planned to have hoist(s) in sub garage for misc items (truck topper and bronco cab).

I’d love to ask you to build the trusses but not sure they’d travel well...to Kansas.

That said, what are benefits in parallel cord over scissor? Higher load capacity?
 

FRANKO289

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You gain more and quicker clg height ..... and def. better/ sturdier truss !
 
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Ict57

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Aug 1, 2016
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Thanks for the help / info. So...gotta ask, assume you’re in FL, dont imagine there’s any semi realistic way to ship ehh?? Thanks!
 

FRANKO289

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No clue where you at ....
but once you know the exact size of the new garage let me know !

also how much cantilever you fancy .... I would do 36" ... ( but your call ) !

I can make you the truss layout , engineering and the cutting list for all the trusses . with athat you can walk into any local truss plant and just say make me this and how much delivered to the jobsite !
 

FRANKO289

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scissor truss ...... w. typical Overhang .
 

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Chief Master Sergeant

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Retired U.S. Air Force
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5,172
Built my 40x60 shop last year and don't regret the extra space for a minute. Thought I went too big at first, but it's nice to be able to work without having to squeeze between stuff. As others said, go as big as you can afford.
 

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FRANKO289

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Make them like so .... Trusses are 16" O.C. 36" cantilever and they are good to hold a channel for the Hoist to travel the length of the garage !

u would weld U bolts hanging over the 2x6 bottom cord to each side of the channel !

or use a I beam travel channel for the hoist then you have more Att possibilities .... the options a endless as long as the trusses are designed for to hold the weight of it all !
 

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Rustytruck

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Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
I want a 15 X 30 foot covered slab outside to do wash down and nasty work like buffing or using paint strippers. I could also wall it off with plastic to paint or sandblast. I want the building resting on a concrete knee wall so you can rinse down floors and reduce the risk of fire from sparks under the sill plates.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Chief I could only dream of a shop like that. I work on a slab out side with a temporary canopy over it and that is a whole lot better that the dirt and gravel I use to work on. At least for the most part I don't have to deal with weather issues like some do. Your killing us people with lessor means.

Sure wished you coated your floors though. I don't need a damn house, I can just have a bed in a dream shop.
 

lonesouth

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Dec 18, 2003
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5,045
Built my 40x60 shop last year and don't regret the extra space for a minute. Thought I went too big at first, but it's nice to be able to work without having to squeeze between stuff. As others said, go as big as you can afford.

what did that cost to build? I'm thinking about something similar in the next year or two.
 

rockingm82

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
Messages
486
Loc.
St. Peters, MO
Is that a wing or a truss? Looks like it belongs on a Piper Cub.

Glad I can help .... Boxes / garages w. standard trusses like that takes me nothing to engineer ( max 5 min ) and usually very seldom something I get to do !

Its when others say it cant be done or toss in the towel that clients somehow find me and stuff ends up on my Desk for a last chance look !
Never had I something I didn't find a solution for it .... " I am not that smart, its just that I stay w. problems longer !"

Aero Roof / Trusses .... once assembles, its going to take lots of trimming and sanding ....
but hey who said it cant be done ? Just show me the money !!! :p

The "truss" shape is ingenious .... Best ever ! almost no uplift values ..Love it ! next !
 

Chief Master Sergeant

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Retired U.S. Air Force
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Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,172
what did that cost to build? I'm thinking about something similar in the next year or two.

I think the main structure was around $50K, which included concrete work and the loft. I don't even want to think of how much I spent on the finish work. It's definitely more shop than I needed.
 

74BroncoCO

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
2,374
I didn't see it mentioned yet, but consider a jack-shaft garage door opener. That at least frees up any room between the tracks and they are far quieter. I understand that your doors will open up into an entry, but these things are superior to the standard belt, chain, screw type. Also, I'd get door installer to run your tracks up as high as possible before making the turn horizontal. That adds clearance too.
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But as others said, go with the biggest you can, be it a budget issue or zoning...My garage is too big, said no one ever! It is far cheaper to get the space now than to attempt to add it later. My dad built a 24x24 and once his tools were added, you can't really walk around anything larger than his jeep in there.

Ideally, I'd like a closed off part of my shop to store larger tools and just put wheels on everything. Band saw, welder, plasma, jacks, jack stands etc... Put those items behind a set of double doors and they are only in your way when in use. Leaving room for your main toolbox and work bench as about the only permanent items in the main room.

Insulate!!

Lighting & power is crucial too.

I'm a CAD guy and could do a simple layout for you if needed. We can layout boxes representing vehicles you own to get a better feel for what you will have left over.
 

OX1

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 26, 2003
Messages
3,458
I didn't see it mentioned yet, but consider a jack-shaft garage door opener.

Or if you are cheap like me, convert an overhead to side mount with a
new gear from McMaster........;D (for some reason, they put 11 foot
ceilings in my 2 car house garage, so I put a cheap 4 post lift on one side
to store 3 cars total).

No disconnect, so can't release it if you lose power, but I still have other side with the normal opener.
Can use this method for a door you rarely use if you will have more than one door.


IMG_0878.JPG


IMG_0881.JPG


20200108_160112.jpg
 

gnpenning

Contributor
Bronco Slave
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Dec 26, 2011
Messages
2,190
Loc.
I have more questions than answers.
Anyone looking go with a jackshaft opener please don't use the 8500. Well documented wall controller issue, which when it fails will open the door. Hopefully you are around when that happens. Liftmaster has had to keep updating this particular style of opener due to nagging problems going back to the 3800/3900 models. 2 of the new residential models are the 8500w and 8900/8950. The 8500w is basically the old 8500 with some of the features removed from the wall controller. The 8900/8950 uses a single button commercial wall controller and doesn't have many of MyQ features, this won't allow a wall controller failure to open your door.

All jackshaft openers should only be used with highlift track or pusher springs. Also pay attention to max door size, if door exceeds max size you can use a commercial jackshaft opener.

Big difference in quality of doors as well. Do not believe any R value claims and gauge of steel by most door manufacturers. Go by type of insulation and thickness. Make sure steel back doors have thermal breaks at the end stiles and between front and back panels. 10/11 ball bearings nylon rollers not only are much quieter but last longer.
 

Seventee

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Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2012
Messages
997
Loc.
In the sticks of MT
I also have a Liftmaster 8500. I thought the wall control issue was resolved on later versions? In any event, mines been good for a couple years now and hopefully won't have problems with it. This is on an 11x16 door.
 

Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,732
Loc.
Georgia
I’ve got a Liftmaster 8500 on a 18 foot wood door. I haven’t had any issues in the 3 years I have had it. Unlike most overhead units, the wall controller has all the brains and can get confused. I only had two issues with setup...

1) I added a Liftmaster ceiling light with an led bulb. After that the door worked sporadically. Liftmaster couldn’t figure it out and sent me a spare controller. It turns out that the LED bulb was giving off a 2.4ghz signal which confused the controller. I finally found out that you have to use garage door opener friendly bulbs. Liftmaster should have known that but I got a spare controller out of it.

2) I wanted extra wall mounted hardwired buttons on each side of the door so I could open it from anywhere. I ordered the Liftmaster ones and then found out, from them, that you can only have one connected or it throws up an error. Liftmaster then told me I didn’t need extra buttons, I could just walk across the shop to open the door on the wall controller . Next they said I would have to use handheld remotes and just put one next to each side of the door.... uuuh,,,,, no thanks.

I tried doorbell buttons and had the same issue. I finally figured out that the power to the led lights in the buttons were enough to confuse the electronics. I got some dumb unlit momentary switches and they work fine. Once again, something you would expect Liftmaster support to know.
 
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