Tires

dgbronc · May 24, 2018

33s or 35s with 2.5 lift and 1 inch body lift 17 inch wheels and has anyone seen the new ko3 bfg

sprdv1 · May 24, 2018

35s... What's the rig plans?

all on the road, some off, some on road?

Timmy390 · May 24, 2018

33's on 17 inch Method Racing NV's 2.5SL 1BL

Tim

ep67bro · May 24, 2018

I would have to say 33s with a that lift tire combo. I had 33s with a 2.5" lift no body lift on a 73 and it was good.

My 67 has 3.5" lift and a 1" body lift with 35" BFG KM2 tires on 15" x 10" rims. Rubs the radius arms at full lock turning, at full compression it just touches the fend flares. If your on the street only it is fine. see pics below.

blubuckaroo · May 24, 2018

According to your garage, you already have 33" tires and a 3.50 rear axle ratio. How's that running for you?
33s are already pretty big for a three speed/3.50 rear.

dgbronc · May 24, 2018

I have sold that rig and just bought another will be posting pics soon it’s being finished up. its a black 1971 completely redone ford racing crate 302 boss, nv 3550 5 speed twin stick with atlas transfer, trail ready bead locks,legend bumpers. it has 315/70/17 right now which are the old all terrain ta’s just wanting a little more aggressive tread. Probaly go back with same size just thought I would ask waiting to see the new ko3 that come out first of June. Thanks for the reply’s. Glad to be back. Also most of my driving will be on road maybe some sand on beach occasionally.

tatersalad · May 24, 2018

I run 33's on my rig and like it. I actually have a 3.5 inch lift with a 1 inch body lift .

markw · May 24, 2018

Ep, that's a nice looking Bronco!

Broncobowsher · May 25, 2018

33s are easier to live with on the street. Brakes work better. Less stress on bearing and ball joints as well.
33s are better for articulation. You can get a lot more stuff with only light rubbing.
35s have the bigger look, if that is what matters to you.
35s will need more limiting to keep it out of parts of the body that are not easily trimmed.
35s will get you more clearance.
Do you need an inch more clearance, or inches more articulation?

Greg_B · May 25, 2018

IMO... it becomes a different vehicle when you go to 35s. Harder to stop.. handles more poorly and usually needs lower gears. I went from 31s, 32s, 33s and now 35s... the 35s look way better but if I were to go back in time I would have stopped at 33's.

I have 4.5" of lift and 1" body lift. I think 2.5 lift with 1" body would be perfect for 33s.

Greg

Apogee · May 25, 2018

A 315/70R17 is basically a 35x12.5 tire, or just shy of it, and that's what I'd stick with if that's what the rig has been built to clear, assuming the intention is to stick with the TR beadlocks. The point of beadlocks is to be able to air down and go wheeling, and the reduction of sidewall height on a 33" tire relative to a 35" tire with 17" wheels will certainly reduce the off-road capability and value of running beadlocks IMO. Running 35's on 17's is like running 33's on 15's, a time tested and proven combination.

Broncobowsher · May 25, 2018

Unfortunately airing down does not add any clearance to the body. Watching a friend go from 33s to 35s was ugly. Had to add a 3" body lift, lowered bumpstops, crippled articulation. The gearings was no longer right (was 4.11s and NP435).

For all the work to properly fit 35s, just go 37s. That is why I stopped at 33s. Next step up was go big or go home. I went home.

sprdv1 · May 25, 2018

lol. Home ain’t a bad thing

blubuckaroo · May 25, 2018

The difference between 33s and 35s is more than height. It's gearing, brakes, and axles (28 spline is too small for 35" tires).
Going to 35" tires is (or should be) quite expensive.

garberz · May 25, 2018

dgbronc said:
33s or 35s with 2.5 lift and 1 inch body lift 17 inch wheels and has anyone seen the new ko3 bfg

The new KO’s have been 2’s for the last year or so. The New 3’s are the KM, mud terrain.

Mark

Rustytruck · May 27, 2018

dgbronc said:
33s or 35s with 2.5 lift and 1 inch body lift 17 inch wheels and has anyone seen the new ko3 bfg

Whats your axle gearing? 3.5 for 30", 4.11 for 33", 4.56 for 35" gears are expensive especially with paying for large tires too.

Broncobowsher · May 27, 2018

blubuckaroo said:
The difference between 33s and 35s is more than height. It's gearing, brakes, and axles (28 spline is too small for 35" tires).
Going to 35" tires is (or should be) quite expensive.

Hence the go big or go home statement. For the work to install 35s properly you can do 37s.

pipeline010 · May 28, 2018

check my garage and profile pic

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

that's 2.5SL, 0BL, 33 mud terrains, 4.11/0 gearing. it's a solid look, handles well on the road but it is splitting my bearings. I don't think they've been changed since the PO went up from 31s.

sprdv1 · May 28, 2018

pipeline010 said:
check my garage and profile pic

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

that's 2.5SL, 0BL, 33 mud terrains, 4.11/0 gearing. it's a solid look, handles well on the road but it is splitting my bearings. I don't think they've been changed since the PO went up from 31s.

33s not a bad choice at all, just a fan of the bigger tires

pipeline010 · May 29, 2018

sprdv1 said:
33s not a bad choice at all, just a fan of the bigger tires

I agree. The perfect aesthetic stance to me is the 35" tires, 2.5 SL, 1"BL. Looks like a bulldog.

For simplicity and daily driver, though, I'm pretty much maxed out at 33s. I may even go smaller...

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