When you take the accelerator pump off the carb you have the check valve staring you in the face. Just below that orange silicone flapper check valve there is a hole that goes back into the fuel well. In that hole there is a brass plug (unless you are unlucky enough to get one with an aluminum plug) with a small hole in it. When the accelerator pump tries to push fuel up through the shooters, part of that fuel goes through the hole and back into the fuel bowl. Plugging the hole with a bit of solder increases the flow to the shooters.
If you have the aluminum plug you will have to tap it out with a punch and then use a lead rivet to plug the remaining hole.
To increase the length of the fuel delivery you want it on the hole farthest from the throttle shaft at that end and on the pump arm you want it in the closest hole toward the pivot of the arm. So, if hole #4 is farther from the throttle shaft it is better to place the link there. Most of the emission carbs have the link set on the outside hole of the lever at the pump. You can get a longer fuel shot if it is placed on the inner hole.
If you notice a surge (rocking back and forth) when cruising at around 50 to 60 mph or that it takes a great deal of throttle to begin to accelerate from 50 to 60 MPH and then it seems to continue after you have let up on the throttle to cruise then your carb has the lean jets for emission control. Just put a pair of jets in that are 2 sizes larger than the ones in the carb. Presto! You are back to 1969 specs.... in addition to the jet change the accelerator pump mods will also return the rest of the carb back to 1969 specs. It will run smooth and you will notice a marked increase in power and drivability.
You could, of course, just buy a rebuilt carb for any midsize 1969 car with a 302 and get the same thing. I'm cheap, I would rather make the mods than pay for a used carb that may or may not have been built by a professional.