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Bronco in Norway

rustbucket

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 22, 2004
Messages
1,579
I would pull the wires out with the pins, coil them up, and put in a small ziplock. Then you can reinstall if you need them later.
 
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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
Long time since I updated here - i finished the car to pass the “DMV” control here in Norway so it’s officially road ready! Though just in time for winter to arrive so it’s parked in a barn for the season... but That means I got to drive the car a few hours which was awesome! Car has not been used for years and it seems like it took a few hours for the engine and fitech to get properly functioning. Nothing like driving something you fixed yourself :)

The brand new rear drum breaks from the PO was mounted wrong with one of the axle bearings broken - so I had to get both rear brakes replaced. Got it done at a specialist break shop and they also commented that my rear axle was bent - so I’ll have to replace those. It “lugs” a bit when I break so hopefully that is the issue otherwise maybe my front discs are bent? Anyone has a similar issue?

As I have a ‘77 I understand the factory default to be 28 spline /large bearing - so I’ll prob just get a new set of those rather than upgrade to bigger spline number. I run relatively normal sized tires and mostly on road so that should be sufficient for what I understand. Seems like TBP etc sell a reinforced set that is slightly stronger than the original axles.




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B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,412
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, let the shop verify if the axle shaft is bent, or if the whole housing is bent.
Sometimes the outer flange where the wheel bolts to get bent if you slide into a rock or curb..
Sometimes the whole housing gets bent.
I had the rear end tube crack at the weld on my work truck when a guy plowed into me from behind.
He hit me so hard his bumper pushed the left rear wheel forward. Luckily we were both OK.
Good luck
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,343
Yes, the standard 28 spline axles should be fine. Tom's and others do sell versions with upgraded materials.
The exception to this would be if you were planning to run lockers or limited-slip differentials. In the case of a locking differential, the upgraded 31spl axle shafts are recommended.
With a limited-slip, like the factory offered as an option, 28spl axles are fine for your road use with modest sized tires.

Paul
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
As I have a ‘77 I understand the factory default to be 28 spline /large bearing - so I’ll prob just get a new set of those rather than upgrade to bigger spline number. I run relatively normal sized tires and mostly on road so that should be sufficient for what I understand. Seems like TBP etc sell a reinforced set that is slightly stronger than the original axles.

There are chromoly sets that will be a little stronger for ya...
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,734
With a limited-slip, like the factory offered as an option, 28spl axles are fine for your road use with modest sized tires.

agreed.... If you are light on skinny pedal off road to, I know folks that have beat on the 28 spline pretty hard and they've held up
 
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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
I have a really weird problem - the rig fired straight up after 4 months in winter storage and I drove it home.

Did a couple of trips and on Saturday when I tried to start it the fuel pump didn’t kick in but the starter ran...

Then after some troubleshooting the starter also stopped working... so now when I turn the key I get some sounds from the fitech but that’s it... no fuel pump (in tank) and no crank?

The fitech display works and shows me temperature and what appears to be fuel pressure “69 ms”

I’ve tested the solonoid and it works... though for some reason it doesn’t kick in when I turn the key... any tips? I’ve checked the 3 in line fuse on the fitech - they are all good.

Any tips on what this can be?




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krdale

krdale

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2017
Messages
42
Loc.
Norway
Ok - so decided to replace the solonoid and that got the starter cranking - testes voltage on the fuel pump and it gets power...

So I ripped off the tank and took out the pump - tested it and it worked... but the cables from the “lid” where it entered the tank and the pump itself were loose... and I broke a connection when I initially assembled the pump which I replaced with a bolt - so I’m curious if that bolt has been touching ground smhw...

Anyways - I’m ordering a new pump to be on the safe side... ain’t worth the hassle to spend half a day taking half the rear ended apart again...

I also noticed that the wire on my hyperfuel cable clamp was poorly installed with a good amount of wire missing - not a good sign for a premium product?

6e9eed90d3888520e0fae77a624ddc99.jpg



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Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
It sucks to redo parts you have already redone. That seems to be the Bronco owners life especially if your paying someone else to to the labor. Have a great Bronco summer.
 
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