FiTech Frustration! Fuel pressure takes a dive once hot

Worst part is I bought directly from Fitech and they have no record. I have to get my CC company involved I guess. Pretty sure I have Holley in my future.

all you folks bidding time and waiting to buy fitech, use these examples. My experience through life has been the first thing to go in a company that is doing poorly is warranty, tech support and refunds. IMO they are milking every penny until the music stops.

Still having same issue. Fitech is calling me back at 6:30 tonight to go over some stuff on the handheld. He said if that doesn’t help then I will need to send it in. As far as my ignition goes, I have a brand new Msd distributor and coil. For the hell of it, I will try a different coil before I send it back. ARGHHHHHHH

So fitech is going back!

So did they call you back when they said they would? Work things out then as well, or had to try a few more times?
Sorry it has to go back, but it's been sounding like it was heading in that direction for awhile now.

Good luck with the end results, no matter which direction they take you.

Paul

It took several times and the past 2-3 weeks. It’s going back for them to test it and fix/send out a new one. The guy at fitech I’ve been dealing with also said that they are having issues with them on small block fords because of how close the distributor is to the ecu, which is on the front of the fitech. Apparently it causes a good amount of electrical noise. I had to remove my Msd 6a from ignition system when I installed fitech because the noise from it was making it run like absolute poop. Maybe my unit is funky and is more sensitive to external noise. Anywho I hope the new one fixes issue. Doing new everything,tb, harness, o2 sensor.

Any way to shield the ECU?

MultiBeast said:

It took several times and the past 2-3 weeks. It’s going back for them to test it and fix/send out a new one. The guy at fitech I’ve been dealing with also said that they are having issues with them on small block fords because of how close the distributor is to the ecu, which is on the front of the fitech. Apparently it causes a good amount of electrical noise. I had to remove my Msd 6a from ignition system when I installed fitech because the noise from it was making it run like absolute poop. Maybe my unit is funky and is more sensitive to external noise. Anywho I hope the new one fixes issue. Doing new everything,tb, harness, o2 sensor.

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This is the same thing they told me when I was having heat issues. They said to swap out the HEI dizzy for a small style MSD. We were done at this point, removed the FiTech, sold it for $700. Put that money towards buying a 1998 Explorer. Now there’s no more wondering were the FiTech is gonna leave my buddies Bronco stranded. The Howell TBI that the FiTech replaced was way more reliable. The stock Explorer 5.0 is a huge upgrade from the previous set up. Sorry FiTech, I hope they’re still around a couple years from now to deal with all the reoccurring issues.

Mark

Anybody hear of the Holley Sniper having similar issues with electrical noise?

I’m curious to know if the sniper has similar issues..
I am running the small style Msd distributor, which I let them know. You would think they could mount a piece of carbon fiber or something electrically reflective on standoffs right off the front of the fitech. Man I hope this second one fixes it otherwise it’s going back for store credit and I’m getting the sniper.

Comemonday67 said:

Anybody hear of the Holley Sniper having similar issues with electrical noise?

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Yes I had to put a metal shield between the dizzy an sniper unit, had to do the same for FI tech unit, so far this has fix all issues

Pictures of said metal shield setup ^^^^ ?

Not my thread here but I chimed in earlier so thought an update might be of use to someone. Convinced my ECU was faulty I replaced the 600 hp/timing control with a 400 no timing control unit. Same exact symptoms. So back to basics. Ground, Ground, Ground!
And sure enough, it works as advertised. And we thought we had the best ground possible. We were wrong...…..

What ground(s) did you add Mark. If you have pics, that would be even better!

Thanks

Paul

Mark someone just told me this. Because it grounds through the intake correct? What did you do differently?

I feel like that may be my problem. I know the FAST system explicitly says to ground and power it from battery

MARKW I’m highly anticipating your response...!

Is this as simple as running a heavy gauge wire from battery- put eyelet on other end and put it on carb stud on top of fitech flange?

Yes. In fact we talked about this quite awhile ago, when the FiTech units were starting to take off.
This has benefited all TBI style EFI setups, but they really took off when FiTech released theirs at less than half the price of everyone else's on the market at the time. So it became more and more pronounced that you needed an additional grounding bond.
Does not have to be a large battery cable size affair. Just a 10ga wire or pre-made strap.
It could probably even be 12, or even 14 gauge in size, but 10g seems to be a nice way to go and can carry way more current than anything in the EFI system is ever going to generate. But hey, dissipating RFI might be better accomplished with larger wire. I don't know, but I'm sure others here know what would be best.

The issue is too much gunk between the TBI and the main battery ground. A more positive ground reduces noise, or at least it's effect on things, as well as just plain letting the computer know more of what's going on.
None of that is technical knowledge on my part of course. Just a simple way of saying it makes it feel better.

So the standard practice is to add a wire, or one of those store-bought braided straps under one of the TBI attaching nuts to the point on the intake manifold that you have mounted your engine ground to the firewall.
You have in fact added a grounding strap between the intake and the firewall. Correct?

With computer controlled systems in old vehicles, the mantra is "grounds, grounds, and more grounds" because there is no such thing as overkill.
Sure, you can add more than you need. But doing so won't hurt anything.

So, this is how it must go on a Bronco:
1. Good ground from battery to engine.
2. Good ground from battery to body (in at least one place).
3. Good ground connection between the engine and the body (usually at the back of the intake).
4. Good ground between the engine and the frame.
5. Good ground between the body and the frame. (not as common, but can't hurt).
6. And if you're feeling particularly modern and up-to-date, add a ground strap between the main body and the hood.
Not because the hood can't ground through all that metal contact it's got at the hinge, but because after 50 years of rust, paint, gunk and other corrosion methods, it might not be very good anymore. Just like the grille and rest of the front clip are not very well grounded to the tub because of potential rust on the spot welds where the skirts attach to the tub.
And a hood is a huge potential noise maker/reflector/transmitter I would think.

I guess we haven't touched on it in awhile, but it was all we were talking about last year.
So yeah, grounds, grounds, and more grounds.

Paul

Welp I ran a 10ga wire from battery- straight to fitech flange. Still runs like crap