Tweaking my steering (for optimal on-road use)

ntsqd · Dec 31, 2016

On stuff like that I always replace the set unless something very specific caused one to fail prematurely. I find peace of mind being able to recall how old something like that is w/o having to think "OK, I replaced which two again?"

Cvcoda · Dec 31, 2016

ntsqd said:
On stuff like that I always replace the set unless something very specific caused one to fail prematurely. I find peace of mind being able to recall how old something like that is w/o having to think "OK, I replaced which two again?"

Makes sense and I tend to agree with that line of thinking. Guess my Bronco is getting a new tie-Rod/drag link assembly.

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DirtDonk · Jan 2, 2017

How is it bent? And how much? Have you tested the rod ends for any play yet?
You already have a non-stock style, fully adjustable "Inverted-T" style upgraded steering setup from one of the vendors, so yours is already a nice and beefy setup.
Your tie-rod is much stronger than stock original. And the rod ends are bigger too.

The draglink is only a slight upgrade in strength, but the adjustability factor is huge.

You can purchase individual ends at much lower cost than replacing the whole thing, or even replacing original pieces too usually.
But if you have not done the test already, I would not just go replacing things unless you don't mind spending the money and then keeping the old stuff as spare parts just in case.
It's too late to do the normal test because you've already started pulling things apart and it can only be done fully assembled with the weight fully on the tires. Seems like you did that already though, correct? Maybe that wasn't you, but if it was, now did things test out?

If the tie-rod is only slightly bent, you can correct toe-in for that with the adjusters. If it's pretty well and bent up, a new one would be in order.

Paul

DirtDonk · Jan 2, 2017

I meant to ask just where is it bent? Seems like it would be hard to bend one of these guys, so wondering what trouble your PO went to to accomplish that?
Looks similar to one of our #2390's here: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie_Rod_Drag_Link_3way_Adjustable_7677yr
If so, the replacement parts are available.

The assumption is that yours has stock '76 disc brake knuckles and pitman arm, rather than the full size F150 replacements if the PO was trying to beef things up or fit different wheels. It can happen, but the most likely scenario is that yours are still the '76 stuff with the smaller tapered holes for the rod ends.

Paul

Viperwolf1 · Jan 2, 2017

ntsqd said:
Sounds like they're due for replacement, but could always use the Navy Test. Large body of water, if they float - they're still good.

I thought that was the witch test.

Cvcoda · Jan 2, 2017

DirtDonk said:
I meant to ask just where is it bent? Seems like it would be hard to bend one of these guys, so wondering what trouble your PO went to to accomplish that?

Looks similar to one of our #2390's here: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie_Rod_Drag_Link_3way_Adjustable_7677yr

If so, the replacement parts are available.

The assumption is that yours has stock '76 disc brake knuckles and pitman arm, rather than the full size F150 replacements if the PO was trying to beef things up or fit different wheels. It can happen, but the most likely scenario is that yours are still the '76 stuff with the smaller tapered holes for the rod ends.

Paul

I'm not 100% certain that it's actually bent, but to my eyes it looked slightly curved in the center while looking at it vertically. I was originally going to just replace the TRE's but when I saw a slight curve in the rod, I figured I'd just go ahead and replace the tie-rod assembly. I was looking at the replacement that WH offers - but figured for the additional $130, I may as well replace the entire assembly so that I know everything is new and not a factor if I still have issues once I get this thing back on the road. (Plus, I have some winnings from fantasy football this year that I wasn't expecting, so I'm looking at those winnings as new Bronco parts!).

I do believe I have the original knuckles from the '76, so I was looking at getting the kit that you referenced.

DirtDonk said:
How is it bent? And how much? Have you tested the rod ends for any play yet?
You already have a non-stock style, fully adjustable "Inverted-T" style upgraded steering setup from one of the vendors, so yours is already a nice and beefy setup.
Your tie-rod is much stronger than stock original. And the rod ends are bigger too.

The draglink is only a slight upgrade in strength, but the adjustability factor is huge.

You can purchase individual ends at much lower cost than replacing the whole thing, or even replacing original pieces too usually.
But if you have not done the test already, I would not just go replacing things unless you don't mind spending the money and then keeping the old stuff as spare parts just in case.
It's too late to do the normal test because you've already started pulling things apart and it can only be done fully assembled with the weight fully on the tires. Seems like you did that already though, correct? Maybe that wasn't you, but if it was, now did things test out?

If the tie-rod is only slightly bent, you can correct toe-in for that with the adjusters. If it's pretty well and bent up, a new one would be in order.

Paul

I had not done "the test" because I didn't have any wheels until recently and the steering shaft was gone. I realize I'm doing things a bit backwards, but I'm ok with spending the money to make sure my steering is safe and reliable (I've been finding some questionable hardware as I'm going through everything, so I'm sort of taking this opportunity to make sure things are done right).

As always, I greatly appreciate all of your great advice and guidance.

-Chris

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Cvcoda · Jan 2, 2017

DirtDonk said:
Looks similar to one of our #2390's here: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie_Rod_Drag_Link_3way_Adjustable_7677yr

Paul

This kit is fully adjustable just like what I'm replacing, correct?

Oh, and I am running a drop pitman arm.

-Chris

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Cvcoda · Jan 13, 2017

I'm thinking about replacing my Skyjacker front coils with some of the WH ones and I'm wondering how difficult it is to swap them out. I did some searching on here last night and it sounds like it's pretty straightforward but I wanted to see if there's anything I should be aware of before pulling the trigger. I currently have the brake lines disconnected and the steering linkage is removed. I shouldn't have to remove anything else, just raise the frame and drop the pumpkin to pull the coils, right?

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DirtDonk · Jan 13, 2017

Correct. Other than the shocks of course, to let the axle drop just that little extra if needed. So might as well include them in the disconnect parts list.

The only hassle factor is usually getting the frame high enough, but in this case it sounds like you're already there and if you don't have wheels and tires on, you can drop it that much more.

It's actually a very simple process after the first time or two that you do it.

1. Lower the axle just enough so that you can see the general tension go out of the coils (jiggling by hand may tell you just when).
2. with the proper wrench or socket to slip through the coils, reach in and just loosen the two anchor bolts just a couple of turns. This loosens the clamp on the bottom coil.
3. Undo the top bolts. Usually removing both and taking the strap all the way off is best.
4. Twist, or "screw" the coil out just like that. Look for the lower coil's end under the clamp, and twist the spring in the correct directly to just get it out of the clamp. You should now be able to grab the spring and pull it out from the top first.

Easy as pie, assuming you got the whole tension thing correct!

Paul

Cvcoda · Jan 13, 2017

DirtDonk said:
Correct. Other than the shocks of course, to let the axle drop just that little extra if needed. So might as well include them in the disconnect parts list.

The only hassle factor is usually getting the frame high enough, but in this case it sounds like you're already there and if you don't have wheels and tires on, you can drop it that much more.

It's actually a very simple process after the first time or two that you do it.

1. Lower the axle just enough so that you can see the general tension go out of the coils (jiggling by hand may tell you just when).
2. with the proper wrench or socket to slip through the coils, reach in and just loosen the two anchor bolts just a couple of turns. This loosens the clamp on the bottom coil.
3. Undo the top bolts. Usually removing both and taking the strap all the way off is best.
4. Twist, or "screw" the coil out just like that. Look for the lower coil's end under the clamp, and twist the spring in the correct directly to just get it out of the clamp. You should now be able to grab the spring and pull it out from the top first.

Easy as pie, assuming you got the whole tension thing correct!

Paul

Thanks, Paul. Always appreciate your knowledge!

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Cvcoda · Feb 12, 2017

Been a while, but I finally had some time to get some work done. Got everything pulled apart on the front end so that I can get all the bushings replaced. There were 7* bushings installed, but the back passenger c-bushing was upside down. Now I'm wondering if that has anything to do with the 1" block that's under the passenger side leafs?

Since everything is off, I'm going to have the track bar, radius arms and c-caps powder coated. This whole project has ended up taking a lot more time and money than I had initially planned on, but it's going to be worth it after it's all done. I'm just hoping I can get everything put back together before it starts getting warm.

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toddz69 · Feb 13, 2017

Cvcoda said:
This whole project has ended up taking a lot more time and money than I had initially planned on

Welcome to the world of a typical Bronco owner!

Todd Z.

Cvcoda · Feb 18, 2017

Made some progress today. Got my rebuilt steering box installed along with the new lower steering shaft. Also got the new 7* bushings and radius arm bushings installed.

Couldn't believe how much tighter my steering feels with the rebuilt box and lower shaft.

Now to get the new coils and coil cups installed and then get the new steering linkage on.

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sykanr0ng · Feb 18, 2017

Cvcoda said:
Since everything is off, I'm going to have the track bar, radius arms and c-caps powder coated. This whole project has ended up taking a lot more time and money than I had initially planned on, but it's going to be worth it after it's all done. I'm just hoping I can get everything put back together before it starts getting warm.

Welcome to the 'While I'm at it's' ;D
Or as some call it the snowball.

Cvcoda · Feb 19, 2017

sykanr0ng said:
Welcome to the 'While I'm at it's' ;D

Or as some call it the snowball.

You got that right. All this just because a U-joint failed.

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Cvcoda · Feb 20, 2017

Ok guys, need some help. Got the steering linkage on today and the last thing I had to do was get the track bar back on. All was good and lined up, but the bolt wouldn't go through the bushing sleeve (track bar bushings are new). The track bar that I have (which is the same one that was installed previously) is actually for a '66-'75. But I've got a '76, so the bolt is a 5/8" and the track bar sleeve inside the bushing is for a 9/16" bolt. So the question is, do I get a new 9/16" bolt and castle nut and drill the bolt for a cotter pin... or?

Also, the bolt holes on the bracket are slightly egged out, so I know I'm going to have to weld some washers up for better fit. Not sure if the smaller bolt size will matter as long as I'm repairing the holes. Appreciate any suggestions.

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DirtDonk · Feb 20, 2017

You can get just the larger (thinner?) sleeve for the bushings. Pretty sure that's what all the vendors do so we can keep just one trackbar part number and just change the sleeves to make it a '76/'77 part number.
Perhaps it's both the bushings with a bigger hole and the appropriate sleeve, but I think it's the sleeve alone.

You could temporarily leave the sleeve out and just put the bolt through the bushing by itself. It would be loose probably, but would not be dangerous to move around the shop/driveway/neighborhood on a very temporary basis.
I wouldn't do any extended driving with it that way, but to get you in a condition you could move it around and steer it with the wheel would be fine.

As far as the holes, yes you should fix them while you're in a working-on-it mood. Weld-washers are the best, but in a pinch you can either weld the hole up and re-drill it the correct size, or even weld on thick washers to do the job.

Paul

DirtDonk · Feb 20, 2017

Are you contemplating ever getting an adjustable trackbar?
I'm sure keeping the costs down is a good thing, but a 4" lift puts your axle, and therefore the trackbar, at an odd angle to the tracbkar bracket. It's probably why the holes are egged out in the first place.
Or at least one of the reasons.

An adjustable trackbar not only allows you to perfectly center the axle in the frame, but with a quick twist of the upper eye you can align the bar with the bracket again. Doing that not only makes it easier to install (now that the bolt lines up with both holes) but puts less strain on the bushings and mounts when just at ride height.
No "preload" in other words.

Paul

sykanr0ng · Feb 20, 2017

RuffStuff weld washers:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/WWASH.html

They are a vendor/sponsor here.

Cvcoda · Feb 21, 2017

DirtDonk said:
Are you contemplating ever getting an adjustable trackbar?
I'm sure keeping the costs down is a good thing, but a 4" lift puts your axle, and therefore the trackbar, at an odd angle to the tracbkar bracket. It's probably why the holes are egged out in the first place.
Or at least one of the reasons.

An adjustable trackbar not only allows you to perfectly center the axle in the frame, but with a quick twist of the upper eye you can align the bar with the bracket again. Doing that not only makes it easier to install (now that the bolt lines up with both holes) but puts less strain on the bushings and mounts when just at ride height.
No "preload" in other words.

Paul

Paul, my track bar is adjustable but it's meant for a '66-'75 - it has the round bushings instead of oval at the frame end.

Also, I should have mentioned that my current 5/8" bolt could probably use replacing - a good 1/2" or so of the threads up toward the head are smoothed out.

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