Good to know. I'll keep that in mind once I get to getting everything back together. I need to get the pitman arm off now so that I can send the steering box off for a rebuild.
-Chris
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Tweaking my steering (for optimal on-road use)
- Thread starter Cvcoda
- Start date
Good to know. I'll keep that in mind once I get to getting everything back together. I need to get the pitman arm off now so that I can send the steering box off for a rebuild.
-Chris
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ntsqd
heratic car camper
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I16PA0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but my PS box is not Ford, so no idea if it fits one.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2009
- Messages
- 6,253
I use a "OTC 6497 Super Duty Pitman Arm Puller" on my stock 77 box and it works great. I got it from Amazon.
Thanks for the suggestion. I ordered mine and got it today. Spent the last two hours trying to get the damn pitman arm off and it's not budging. I put Aerokroil on the output shaft a couple weeks ago thinking this thing would come right off by the time I actually had a puller that would fit.
Anyone have any ideas for getting this thing off?
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You try a pickel fork?
No, just the puller. Maybe I'll try that. Really didn't think it was going to be this difficult to get it off.
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Mtgrizzlymn
Sr. Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2013
- Messages
- 662
Didn't read earlier posts have you tried whacking it with a decent hammer on the side of pitman arm?
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Beat on it a bit with a rubber mallet. Didn't use an actual hammer because I was afraid I would do damage to something.
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Be sure to oil the threads of the puller and just keep tightening. 
You can try wacking both sides of the pitman arm at the eyelet with two metal hammers at the same time. This can help loosen it.
You can try wacking both sides of the pitman arm at the eyelet with two metal hammers at the same time. This can help loosen it.
Broncobowsher
Total hack
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 34,878
A long drift and tap opposite sides alternately from the top.
Timmy390
Bronco Guru
You trying to take it off using arm power or using an impact on it? A few years back (longer than I care to state) I tried for days to get mine off by hand. Beat on it, oil on it, PB Blaster you name it. I went into F it mode (something was going to give) and put an impact gun on it and it came right off.
Tim
Tim
ntsqd
heratic car camper
Concur with Timmy, try an impact wrench.
If that is not an option then notice that the main 'bolt' on the puller has it's hex flats turned off down a ways on the head from the top? Hit it on the top with a 3-5 lbs'r. Shouldn't have to wail on it, but you do want to shock it. Hit it, tighten it, hit it, tighten it. repeat. Shouldn't take very many cycles. Definitely lubricate the puller threads with something.
If you're going to hit the side of the arm you need to back it up with a heavier hammer. Hold a 5 lbs'r against one side and hit opposite it with a 3 lbs'r. If you hit the side of the arm without a backing hammer you're just beating the pitman shaft into the supporting bearings of the steering box.
If that is not an option then notice that the main 'bolt' on the puller has it's hex flats turned off down a ways on the head from the top? Hit it on the top with a 3-5 lbs'r. Shouldn't have to wail on it, but you do want to shock it. Hit it, tighten it, hit it, tighten it. repeat. Shouldn't take very many cycles. Definitely lubricate the puller threads with something.
If you're going to hit the side of the arm you need to back it up with a heavier hammer. Hold a 5 lbs'r against one side and hit opposite it with a 3 lbs'r. If you hit the side of the arm without a backing hammer you're just beating the pitman shaft into the supporting bearings of the steering box.
Using plain old brute force (clearly not enough!). I don't have an impact wrench, but it's probably time I get one.
I was going to try one of those extra large box wrenches and see if the extra leverage helps (I've been using an adjustable channel lock and it's just not doing it). Or I was going to try my torque wrench since it has a lot more leverage.
I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I'm going to beat this damn thing one way or another. I'll let you know what happens.
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- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,483
Rubber mallets have failed more often than succeeded with jobs like this. Maybe they've never succeeded?
You need a "shock load" as well as any direct force that you're applying with the hammer. The shock deforms the metal microscopically and the vibrations are a key to helping get the job done. Again, not just force.
But leave the puller in place and under tension. This usually speeds up any hammering process.
I've always hesitated to use either a pickle fork or a single hammer on a steering box. On a tie-rod end, not a problem. But on a steering sector shaft in bushings/bearings, was never sure. So I use the 2-hammer method.
That's where one hammer (if different, the heavier one) is laying up along side the arm, and the second hammer is doing the hitting. This does two things. One is it gives sort of a resonating second shock wave and two, takes some of the sideways force out of the blow from the other hammer.
I try to angle the puller in such a way as I can get the hammers to lay up against the main large portion of the arm. That's not always possible of course, and your puller type does take up some real estate just sitting there. But do what you can.
In a pinch, you can remove the puller, smack the crapola out of the arm a few times, then re-apply pressure from the puller. The shock waves might have done their job and the arm will come off easier after. Done that a time or two myself.
Basically you do what you have to do, but use a hammer at least on some attempts because it really works on tapered stuff.
Good luck.
Paul
You need a "shock load" as well as any direct force that you're applying with the hammer. The shock deforms the metal microscopically and the vibrations are a key to helping get the job done. Again, not just force.
But leave the puller in place and under tension. This usually speeds up any hammering process.
I've always hesitated to use either a pickle fork or a single hammer on a steering box. On a tie-rod end, not a problem. But on a steering sector shaft in bushings/bearings, was never sure. So I use the 2-hammer method.
That's where one hammer (if different, the heavier one) is laying up along side the arm, and the second hammer is doing the hitting. This does two things. One is it gives sort of a resonating second shock wave and two, takes some of the sideways force out of the blow from the other hammer.
I try to angle the puller in such a way as I can get the hammers to lay up against the main large portion of the arm. That's not always possible of course, and your puller type does take up some real estate just sitting there. But do what you can.
In a pinch, you can remove the puller, smack the crapola out of the arm a few times, then re-apply pressure from the puller. The shock waves might have done their job and the arm will come off easier after. Done that a time or two myself.
Basically you do what you have to do, but use a hammer at least on some attempts because it really works on tapered stuff.
Good luck.
Paul
Alright, the hammer trick worked (and the extra leverage)! Now, it appears I'll have to remove the PS pump to get the box out because of where my shock hoop is mounted (the output shaft is getting hung up on the frame or the shock hoop depending on which way I try to pull it up). So what's the best way to move the PS pump out of the way? I'm not sure if I loosen the tension on the belt if I can just retighten when done or if there's a certain spec I need to go for? Or am I looking at this wrong?
-Chris
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-Chris
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Need some advice... I pulled the drag link and tie-rod off today to replace some bushings. When looking at the tie-rod in a vertical position, it appears slightly bent. I was going to replace the tie-rod ends anyway, but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just replace the entire tie-rod assembly?
-Chris
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-Chris
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Got the pitman arm pulled and removed it from the drag link. How can I tell if the ball joints of the drag link are bad? I'm trying to decide whether or not to replace just the tie-rod assembly (dust boots were basically non-existent on the ends and who knows what kind of crap has made its way into the joints) or the entire tie -rod and drag link assembly?
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ntsqd
heratic car camper
Sounds like they're due for replacement, but could always use the Navy Test. Large body of water, if they float - they're still good.
How about the drag link joints? I'm sure the TRE's are toast.
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