Rollbar Advice Needed - Non rock crawler..

BradM · Sep 7, 2004

Welp,

I have a uncut bronco I would like to keep "mostly" stock. But I would still like some extra safety. I know there are lots of views on this issue..so here is what I am looking for..

I essentially want the standard old school bar that I can attach a standard shoulder style seatbelt for the front seats.

I VERY rarely take this truck off road, and when she does see dirt it is on the mild trails due to her mostly stock nature.

If I get the smittybilt roll bar for behind the seats (or something similar if there is one)... how do I bolt it to the body? My body is pretty much rust free...

Do I need extra large mounting plates ?
Do I need to mount it to the frame ? If its not my daily driver ?
Should I run the cage up front too? Or is just the overhead bar enough?

Any helpful pics out there for an install of this type bar to the body only?

Thanks for the advice!

Brad

supermottl · Sep 7, 2004

I would at least run a 6 pnt cage with the hoop in the front as well. Should you roll over, the windshield will provide NO structural support and will fold real quick. My cage does not use any plates, but prolly should %) and is not mounted to the frame. I only beach cruise with mine... no rocks..

Grunt1058 · Sep 7, 2004

IMHO... A Cage is probably one of the most important pieces of equipment on rigs like ours. Regardless if you rock crawl or not... I'd go with a descent cage. It will also protect you in case of an accident/freeway roll, not just off road.

My rig isn't being setup for Rocks. I have no intentions on ever rolling my rig or suffering minor/major body damage. My goal is to make my rig a reliable off road toy so I can travel in it comfortably to places most people can't go.

That being said... I have a build plan for a 6 or 8 pt. roll cage with sufficient spreaders and seat mounts and seatbelt mounts to the cage. I will use 6x6 when possible plates to mount to the body and have frame tie in points at each mounting point. If my 8 body mount bolts fail me, I want to make sure that everyone stays in the cage and keep it as sound as possible.

If you do decide to go with the smitty built (or similar) 4 point roll/show bar. I have one for sale.

SaddleUp · Sep 7, 2004

Any roll bar is better than having none at all. Most of the ones you buy will mount up using plates under the pads. (Where this is discussed for racing regulations they normally require 4 x 4 plates) I would suggest a 6 point cage over a 4 point but in 2 of the 3 rollovers I've been in they only had 4 point roll bars. (The windshield frames get ruined that way)

Regarding mounting directly to the frame it will depend on how far you want to go. Most of the time when rolled off road going to just the body will be adequate as long as the body is relatively rust free. Tying to the body is not a simple matter of running tube down though from the pads. (That more or less guarantees the connection point will rip through from body flex even if it isn't rolled) It instead requires some sort of flexible mount or holes clear through the body that allow the body to flex.

Regarding mounting the seats and seat belts to the cage it is not a bad idea however chances are the body will rip loose from the frame long before the roll bar will come loose from the body. (As long as the cage has the backing plates on the pads) I.E. The cage with backing plates provides several times more strength at those points than the body mounts do.

Don't get me wrong. A 6 or 8 point cage with frame mounts and the seats/seat belts mounted directly to it is probably the ultimate in protection and in most racing regulations are the "preferred" method of mounting whenever possible.

wildbill · Sep 7, 2004

If I remember right they come with the mounting plates. All you need to do is drill the bolt holes for the back bar and the front will need some cutting and welding also. Take the top off and it will eat up a saturday. But it is well worth it good luck.

Bill %) ;D

BradM · Sep 7, 2004

Thanks all for the feedback...

Question...If I go with a 6 point (back and front section w/o seat mounts) are there sets out there that get around the glove box issue? Or is it a lost cause?

Thanks, Brad

68beast · Sep 7, 2004

I have to agree with the others on you might as well have a full front cage but didnt some broncos come stock with a roll bar? This might go with your mainly stock theme a little better.

Grunt1058 · Sep 7, 2004

I haven't seen any that go around the glove box door. Only thing I have seen that keeps it from being a lost cause is a Tuffy glove box door. Or you can do the glove box mod where you move the glove box left a few inches...

As far as my original post. Yeah, it seems to be overkill. But, my life and the lives of my family are worth more to me then the cost of some metal I'm buying to save our lives... How much is your life worth?

Smedley · Sep 7, 2004

Does anyone have any experience with the Kentrol Cages? Link below:

http://www.kentrolinc.com/

Thanks
Will

SaddleUp · Sep 7, 2004

BradM said:
Thanks all for the feedback...

Question...If I go with a 6 point (back and front section w/o seat mounts) are there sets out there that get around the glove box issue? Or is it a lost cause?

Thanks, Brad

Mine has clearnace for the stock glove box which was done by creating a flat section (about 6" long) in the bar next to it. If doing this I would suggest having a bar across the dash though for extra strength.

jpoore · Sep 7, 2004

My Smittybuilt did not come with plates, however I plan to make some.

With the plates, is body flex still an issue? i thought about tieing to the frame, but the dynamics seem complicated and probably require a flexible connection, i.e. poly bushings.

JP

SaddleUp · Sep 7, 2004

jpoore said:
My Smittybuilt did not come with plates, however I plan to make some.

With the plates, is body flex still an issue? i thought about tieing to the frame, but the dynamics seem complicated and probably require a flexible connection, i.e. poly bushings.

JP

The bushings at the body mounts will still allow the frame to flex independently of the body.

sstlaure · Sep 8, 2004

You can take a look at how I tied in my cage with flexible bushings at the attached thread (pg 2 gives you the Energy Susp Part # for the bushings)

Orient some of the tie-ins at 90 degrees to each other to keep the entire cage from being able to sway. (i.e. front 2 go x-car, middle 2 go fore/aft, back 2 go x-car again.)

http://www.classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47631&page=1

Good luck (BTW...We jump the hell out of our trucks and built them strong, I have no reservations about dumping a truck hard on its lid with my cage in it. 8pts, all to the frame.)

BradM · Sep 8, 2004

Thanks again for the advice. I will be doing a full cage when the funds become available. Your right that the payoff from a full cage far outweights the possible downside to a half cage in a roll over event or major collision. I guess this of all things is not the place to try and "skimp" on a few bucks.

But after an engine rebuild and full suspension redo this summer, my bronco funds need replenishing.

After all is said and done...full cage it is...thanks for the help.

Brad

rcmbronc · Sep 8, 2004

Smedley said:
Does anyone have any experience with the Kentrol Cages? Link below:

http://www.kentrolinc.com/

Thanks
Will

I have a Kentrol cage in mine. I like the fit and the look. The glove box door does not open. I am not sure what I am going to do about it.

Smedley · Sep 8, 2004

I don't plan on the getting the front cage. Just the rear (4 point) section that is seen in the above pic.

Thanks
Will

supermottl · Sep 8, 2004

I like that Kentrol Cage alot. If I did mine over again, I'd get that one. Good shape and I've heard great things from that Co.

VTBRNCO · Sep 8, 2004

rcmbronc said:
I have a Kentrol cage in mine. I like the fit and the look. The glove box door does not open. I am not sure what I am going to do about it.

Does a hard top fit over that roll cage rcmbronc??

rcmbronc · Sep 8, 2004

When I welded up the front portion I had the hardtop on the truck and it did fit. It is tight. It could be made to fit better when you weld the front together.

Rollbar Advice Needed - Non rock crawler..

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