Best waterproofing ideas for engine and no inner fenders?

RPM289 · Nov 19, 2017

Lets see what everyone is doing?

pcf_mark · Nov 19, 2017

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Rubber_Distributer_Boot/Bronco_Performance_Ignition

For the distributor. I moved almost everything else inside the cab for reliability.

ntsqd · Nov 19, 2017

????

sykanr0ng · Nov 19, 2017

Why not use a diesel with a snorkel?

Older diesel engines (pre-electronic controlled) are able to run under water.
Seal the lower parts of the snorkel and you can drive it until you hit a hole deep enough to put the snorkel inlet under.

ntsqd · Nov 20, 2017

Doesn't have to be a mechanical diesel, Dirt Every Day did it with the new Cummins 2.8L in a TJ:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icp2Pb5uoME

RPM289 · Nov 20, 2017

Just thinking about a deep water crossing and not drowning the motor out no diesel conversion in my future

Got the dielectric grease already ntsqd

How do electric fans like to be submerged?

Air intake ideas?

Sealing up engine, tranny, axle vents, etc?

ntsqd · Nov 20, 2017

I built manifolds for several of my 4X4's that are vented high in the engine bay. Axle, trans, and t/c vents were all plumbed to it. Similar to, but way, way in advance of BCB's manifold. One such manifold that I built for a friend was plumbed into the engine's PCV system on the vent side (no vacuum applied).

Some of the Toyota axle vent fittings are pretty trick. Spring loaded to open under pressure only, a vacuum seals them. So suddenly submerging a hot axle in water sucks the vent closed tighter.

RPM289 · Nov 20, 2017

ntsqd said:
I built manifolds for several of my 4X4's that are vented high in the engine bay. Axle, trans, and t/c vents were all plumbed to it. Similar to, but way, way in advance of BCB's manifold. One such manifold that I built for a friend was plumbed into the engine's PCV system on the vent side (no vacuum applied).

Some of the Toyota axle vent fittings are pretty trick. Spring loaded to open under pressure only, a vacuum seals them. So suddenly submerging a hot axle in water sucks the vent closed tighter.

Like the sound of yoto vents! I helped restore a M38 Willys and it had all vents plumbed into the intake system. yoto sounds much easier!

73azbronco · Nov 20, 2017

What am I doing? Not driving in water deeper than the door sill

Absolutely have to cross deeper? Engine off, winch.

ntsqd · Nov 20, 2017

RPM289 said:
Like the sound of yoto vents! I helped restore a M38 Willys and it had all vents plumbed into the intake system. yoto sounds much easier!

Right up until a piece of grit mucks up the works and won't let it close.

In a previous thread here on this topic I wondered about pressurizing, in particular the axles, to a couple psi. Some were outraged by the very concept & predicted the Apocalypse should anyone try it.
Out here on the left coast's Coastal Desert we don't see much deep water crossings, but that sure seems like the best idea to me. Making it happen wouldn't be simple, but if I had regular deep crossings to do I'd sure be looking into it.

Steve83 · Nov 20, 2017

RPM289 said:
Just thinking about a deep water crossing and not drowning the motor out...

How do electric fans like to be submerged?

Air intake ideas?

Sealing up engine, tranny, axle vents, etc?

Sealing them isn't possible - their seals can't be that tight (because they'd wear out instantly), so they can't hold any pressure. That means they have to "breathe" somehow, for altitude & temperature changes. High breather tubes will allow them to vent in those situations, but also when submerged and the water leaks in past the wheel/crank/input/output seals. What about the PCV system? Even a mechanical (gas) fuel pump has a breather hole that you have to address somehow.

And that's not the only issue. In addition to the spinning fan (which can be partially solved with e-fans, but as you noted, THEY also aren't sealed for submerging), spinning alternator (& its soft carbon brushes), vented PS reservoir at the cap, and all the electrical components that don't work well after being soaked with muddy/salty water. Even without a fan spinning near it, the radiator, block, & all the coolant will also chill & contract, meaning that the coolant system will suck in whatever's around its overflow/vent.

Then you have to think about what's going to happen to the exhaust manifolds (gas OR diesel) when they go from ~1,000°F to whatever the local water temperature is, in a second or 3. And the cylinder heads. And any incandescent light bulbs that are on.

Now, you're just left with all the little insignificant things: fuel tank, HVAC, upholstery, seat belts/buckles/reels, door/tailgate/hood latches & hinges, chassis/underbody rust...

All of those (& many others) are why only a FEW expensive (military & modern sport) vehicles are rated to go from land to water above the wheel hubs.

If you want to play in the water, bring a pair of boots, or tow a boat behind your Bronco. ;D
Otherwise, just plan on rebuilding the hubs, draining the axles, and repairing/replacing other things any time you go deep.

sykanr0ng · Nov 20, 2017

73azbronco said:
What am I doing? Not driving in water deeper than the door sill

Absolutely have to cross deeper? Engine off, winch.

Load it on a barge or a ferry.

RPM289 · Nov 20, 2017

I swim like a rock so no deeper than the rockers is a good rule for me but as I stated I have no inner fenders so water will be thrown from tires all in engine bay.

Skiddy · Nov 20, 2017

distributor cover and all your vents above the rockers and should be fine. WD40 actually is a good water repellant (WD=Water Displacement)
or if you want to go real deep you do this https://capecod.craigslist.org/boa/d/truck-boat/6381816081.html and put a bronco body on it;D

5001craig · Nov 20, 2017

I worry more about the fan getting into the radiator than with electronics. My buddy did this a couple years ago and that fan is like a prop when in the water--pulling itself into the radiator.

And even if I get through the water I wake-up thinking about stuff rusting in the bottom of the diffs. That is until I drain the fluids (they were clean).

laserfish · Nov 21, 2017

Had the fan cut a circular section in my radiator early in my offroad experience. Came home on a trailer. Now have an e fan with a switch in the cab so this does not happen again. Just have to remember to turn it back on or it will over heat, as me how i know!

ntsqd · Nov 21, 2017

buy or make:
https://bcbroncos.com/product-category/cooling/radiator-guards/

Or better yet build engine mounts that don't allow that much movement.

RPM289 · Nov 21, 2017

ntsqd said:
buy or make:
https://bcbroncos.com/product-category/cooling/radiator-guards/

Or better yet build engine mounts that don't allow that much movement.

Is it the motor mounts moving or fan flexing in water? Probably both

now that I'm typing this LOL

ntsqd · Nov 21, 2017

Why are you using a flex-fan?

nvrstuk · Nov 21, 2017

Fan is twisting /torqing from the resistance when trying to rotate when hitting the water

BC's guard works great like TS posted

Best waterproofing ideas for engine and no inner fenders?

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