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Nicks Trix / Helen Keller Customs

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Bferrari

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2013
Messages
856
I understand that there may be frustration when you spend a lot of money for a restoration and things happen that are not ideal. The pictures that you have posted do not illustrate several repaints in my opinion and look appropriate for a fresh build. I recently took my rig down to metal and performed all the steps up to and including paint. The initial step that I did was to skim the body work with filler then block sand it down flat. In doing this it creates the flat profile that is necessary to build upon. It looks like this was done on your rig as well. The different colors (i.e. yellow, white, blue) look to be different tinted hardeners that are used with filler. This is done to make it easier to read the panel to obtain a flat level surface. From there I can see that it has primer, which is the next step in obtaining a nice paint job. Filler primer allows you to block sand and get any of the minor imperfections out of the surface prior to paint. Then you spray a sealer down prior to color. Your picture does show that it has had two coats of the brown color sprayed on the bedrail. This wouldn't necessarily concern me as I know that there has been areas on mine that didn't turn out quite perfect so I elected to fix the issue and shoot another round over areas where it was merited.

Regarding the areas that you are claiming are rust bubbles, you need to realize that that is only sheet metal in which you are bolting a top down to. I know that on mine, the same thing happened when I torqued the bolts down to seal the top. The metal gives and is flexible, the paint is not. It appears that the bubbles you have seen is from this, not from rust, and I am unsure that this can be avoided aside from not installing the top. If it were rust then it would be cauliflower looking and the subsurface would be pitted. There are traces of minor surface rust in those areas which could be a result in the paint cracking due to the top installation and a little bit of moisture setting in.

I can sympathize with you that this is a sensitive matter which may lead a person to read into something more that they should. I know Nick personally and know that he is a stand up person that is very conscientious about the quality of work that leaves his shop. He has spent several years building his reputation and would not neglect to stand behind his work. I also know that he hires out the paint and body on his builds which is the same painter that has done all of his work for several years. His painter is also a very knowledgeable person that stands behind his work. Have you contacted Nick directly about addressing the issues and getting them fixed? I am assuming that you haven't given your posts on this website tying to publically humiliate a person that we all know is a stand up individual. I would recommend contacting Nick in person and allowing him to address any the concerns you may have. This will save you a bunch of time and will get you the product you desire.
 

lonesouth

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 18, 2003
Messages
5,045
So did you and Nick ever have any more discussions to remedy this?
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Does Nick do the actual finish body work and paint or is it subcontracted to an outside paint facility? It looks like Nicks place does the sheet metal replacement. I'm glad you taking the job under your control now. Best wishes for a great final out come.
 

broncodriver99

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
4,780
Loc.
Glen Allen, VA
I agree with Bferrari's post. Looks to me like a sealer or etching layer then several coats of filler/sandable primer then another layer of sealer/primer then 2 coats of color.
 

mp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 22, 2001
Messages
2,914
Loc.
Austin, TX
Crap quality YouTube video, but that shade of green is exactly the same color as the last filler I used on a resto.
 

AZ73

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
3,542
Of course I'm not there looking in person, but I welded nuts to the bottom of my top holes in the quarters, then ground down the high spots. This has filler spread over it, sanded, filled, sanded, primer filled, sanded, primered, painted. Each time the filler was spread, it was drilled out after it dried and has a dust coat of color put on to identify high and low spots for the next sanding. That's what you see. Also the holes had "mushroomed" up from being over tightened and had to be hammered down which added to the need for filler. Once you put the top on and bolt it down, the metal flexes and will, if enough flex, stress the filler at the hole causing the oysters you can pull off that your video shows with the razor. 20 years of painting means nothing if they're not a body man, and I have rarely seen a body man who paints. Not to mention rust isn't green. He's claiming the bubbling is rust. Where's the rust? Again, I'm not looking live at what you're looking at and it sucks to not be happy with expensive work, but there are many reasons for what you're seeing, and most of them are not because of faulty work. BTW to avoid this problem in the future, I didn't weld nuts, I welded a 4 foot piece of flat stock with holes drilled and tapped. When I torque my top down now, the stress is spread across the entire bar and not localized to the hole.
 

JdoubleC

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2015
Messages
130
Instead of continuing to belittle and degrade a reputable longtime forum member, why not contact Nick and convey your build issues to him. Continuing to post pictures and insult someone on a forum isn’t solving any problems with the truck.
Hopefully you can resolve the issues and enjoy the bronco.
 
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1strodeo

Squirrel Watcher
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
3,596
Loc.
Wisconsin
I asked to have this thread reopened to post pictures.

Feel better? ;D

Seriously though, I hope you are not dumping more money into this thing. If you were to invest that $100k+ for your son his college would be paid for and he'd STILL be a millionaire when he graduated, just sayin'
 

jw0747

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 22, 2006
Messages
2,434
Loc.
San Antonio, TX
If you try hard enough you can nitpick someone's work 'til the cows come home. Rather than contacting the someone who did the job to hopefully work things out we'll continue to post pics and nitpick. Webmaster, pls close thread!!
 

FRANKO289

Contributor
Bronco enthusiast
Joined
Jul 7, 2008
Messages
6,807
If you try hard enough you can nitpick someone's work 'til the cows come home. Rather than contacting the someone who did the job to hopefully work things out we'll continue to post pics and nitpick. Webmaster, pls close thread!!


2x what he ^^^ said !!
 
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DINOONE

DINOONE

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
125
2777e007bec9f243099da7bd158a157c.jpg


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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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DINOONE

DINOONE

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
125
More awesome rust finds today.....

575e065e22ea41b63e10ac4cb4beeb32.jpg


6134e80f266656737c5a34ace2859dfe.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Bronco Biff

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Messages
933
Have you thought about buying a new body and all brand new sheet metal with no 40 year old factory seam sealer in it?
 
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DINOONE

DINOONE

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
125
Have you thought about buying a new body and all brand new sheet metal with no 40 year old factory seam sealer in it?



Paid for a frame off rebuild and rotisserie I theory shouldn't have rust 🤷🏽*♂️


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Amac70

ME
Joined
Mar 27, 2002
Messages
3,269
go buy a new aluminum truck if you don't want rust, there is no way to stop it on a 50 year old truck that more then likely spent 25 years outside. there is no way to get inside lapped joints. i know your upset and all but coming here and complaining is not going to solve your problems or change the minds of the people on this forum. go after the source of your problem instead of complaining around the campfire. if you really felt cheated you would be in real court, not court of opinion.
 

JdoubleC

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2015
Messages
130
go buy a new aluminum truck if you don't want rust, there is no way to stop it on a 50 year old truck that more then likely spent 25 years outside. there is no way to get inside lapped joints. i know your upset and all but coming here and complaining is not going to solve your problems or change the minds of the people on this forum. go after the source of your problem instead of complaining around the campfire. if you really felt cheated you would be in real court, not court of opinion.

I couldn't agree more!!
 
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