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Old 12/07/18, 04:45 AM   #1
PickleJar
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Reinforcing body tub for removal

Iíll be doing this in the next few weeks hopefully. I have a week off work coming up.

I have seen different ways people have reinforced a tub. But does anyone have close up pictures of the angle or square tubeing or whatever you used actually attached to the door jams? Iím not sure how I want to actually attach the steel...

Also while I have everything stripped the roll bar is still intact. I thought leaving would both help stabilize the body more and possibly provide an extra place to grab onto when removing or moving it around in garage. Thoughts?
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Old 12/07/18, 07:59 AM   #2
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I used a pair of tractor 3-point top links bolted to angle iron screwed into the door hinge and latch mounts. They are strong enough, about $20 a piece a few yrs ago, and adjustable. Prob more now. I also had the roll cage bolted into place, a tailgate cross bar, and a couple 2x4 outriggers hooked from the roll cage to the front clip installed when lifting the tub.
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Old 12/07/18, 12:00 PM   #3
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You said your roll bar is still mounted, that it is how I removed my body the last time i did it. Of course it has to be a full cage. I left the roll bar mounted on the body and was able to lift it right off the frame, no bending or flexing of the body. I do have a body with angle iron attached that I used to lift another body off that I can send pictures how I attached it, if you PM, I can send you pics if needed.
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Old 12/07/18, 03:00 PM   #4
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Roll bar / cage will help significantly. I used 1" square mild steel tubing and made an x (not connected to each other for the door openings. Then I squeezed in another piece of square tubing at the top of the door opening to keep the spacing as perfect as possible. I did 2 pieces of square tube across the front and near the rear of the bed (left to right sides). (all of these were welded). Leave your tailgate on if possible, but if not, weld the square tubing at the rear right at where the tailgate would be. But I wouldn't just trust the roll cage only to keep everything square. The extra bit of time bracing everything will save you a ton of time and frustration when it goes back together. A TON. - jim

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Old 12/07/18, 03:00 PM   #5
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Thanks for the input so far. I do have to bring up when I took my doors off the ďfloatingĒ inserts that are inside the door pillars fell down inside the door pillar so I donít have anything to thread into. I havenít been able to get the screws out of the door latch post on the other side and wasnít worried cause Iím going to replace the Pillars and hardware anyway.

My roll bar is stock so itís not a full cage.

Did anyone do anything with the tail gate opening? Is that necessary?

Would it be wrong to run angle or flat steel across the door opening on the inside of the bronco and machine screw it in? Fix the holes later? Sorry if thatís dumb...
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Old 12/07/18, 03:02 PM   #6
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Jim, just to be clear, you are welding the tubing directly to the body. I’m assumming just little buttons. Correct?
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Old 12/07/18, 03:31 PM   #7
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These are the best pics I had on hand. I used 1"x1" square tubing. I welded one piece under the bed rails then 2 from that rail to the bottom of the cowl and a couple to the floor. I removed the floor ones when I replaced the floor but the rest stayed all the way through media blasting and final paint.
I was able to cut them out carefully after final paint.
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77 Ranger 5 year frame off nut and bolt restoration by me with EFI, 4.11s, Cage 3.5" lift 2" body lift, MTZ 35s on 17" Allied Monster Beadlocks, Duff Long Arms, BC TRO, Kiser Riser, Protofab bumpers, Warn winch. 1970 Trail rig with 37's on Trail Worth Fab H1 beadlocks, long arms, 302, C4.
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Old 12/07/18, 06:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PickleJar View Post
Jim, just to be clear, you are welding the tubing directly to the body. Iím assumming just little buttons. Correct?
Yes. But if you're putting in new door posts/pillars then you have to find another place to weld to, like the dash, firewall, etc. I just tack welded them, they don't have to be super strong, but enough that the body doesn't tweak.

Also, it depends on how much you are doing to the body. How much body work are you doing?
- jim

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Old 12/07/18, 06:37 PM   #9
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Overkill, but I was sharpening my welding skills as well.
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Old 12/07/18, 07:00 PM   #10
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I am going to get a complete front floor. Kicker panels, rockers, door jams. My rear bed is good
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Old 12/07/18, 07:02 PM   #11
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Thank you guys I have a direction now. Iím gonna get some tubing and weld my pieces in. Wonít be for 2 weeks till Iím off work, but Iíll send pictures in and see what you all think before I take the tub off. Thanks again everyone!
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Old 12/07/18, 08:54 PM   #12
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Watching this thread, hopefully I will be doing mine soon.
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Old 12/08/18, 08:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonefizz View Post
Overkill, but I was sharpening my welding skills as well.
I may be interested in buying that setup from you when you are done with it. I am located in Simi Valley. Not ready yet - I assume you are going to be a while...

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Old 12/10/18, 09:25 PM   #14
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1977 Project uncut tub & frame, 33x10.50x15 KM2s on stock 15x6s, ACC vinyl floor, 6pt Crab Cage, eyebrow grill, 5.0 efi 302, C4 http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=229232
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