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ARA A/C Rebuild

Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,732
Loc.
Georgia
When I switched compressors I knew I did not have any hose leaks so I just kept the old hoses. I ordered 90 and 45 degree fittings thinking I would see what fit the best. I mounted the compressor on its side to give me more clearance for the fittings. That’s fine for a Sanden. I even called them to verify that.

I ended up using the 90 degree fittings with the service ports on them. That gave me the most clearance and best angles so that there was no stress on the fittings or bends in the hoses.

One thing to be aware of, and you may be past this point, the Sanden clutch is a bit thicker than the old York clutch. When I got the compressor mounted my fan was hitting the clutch. Some people move the compressor further towards the fender to get clearance. I was able to add some spacers to the adapter plate to scoot the compressor back towards the valve cover. I got enough clearance to switch to a larger flex blade fan for added air flow. That helped a lot with A/c temps at idle by pulling more air across the condenser...
ac37a34dd0a13fb1aa50b334d5c02908.heic

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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
When I switched compressors I knew I did not have any hose leaks so I just kept the old hoses.

I don't either. They are just brittle and with the changing of routing expected at a few bucks a foot and with everything else changing/moving; just seems like the right option. And grabbing a that kit would give me the majority of ends to use for my existing hoses...it's the rule I've been ignoring...if you have to replace 60% or more, you might as well just do them all.

I ended up using the 90 degree fittings with the service ports on them. That gave me the most clearance and best angles so that there was no stress on the fittings or bends in the hoses.

Was not aware of the side mounting, so that probably solves that problem. But I still need the ports. Probably go with the 90s then.

One thing to be aware of, and you may be past this point, the Sanden clutch is a bit thicker than the old York clutch. When I got the compressor mounted my fan was hitting the clutch. Some people move the compressor further towards the fender to get clearance. I was able to add some spacers to the adapter plate to scoot the compressor back towards the valve cover. I got enough clearance to switch to a larger flex blade fan for added air flow. That helped a lot with A/c temps at idle by pulling more air across the condenser...

So more fun times? Can't wait!

Thanks for all your help/thoughts and pictures!
 
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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
TO THE TOP

Got a new compressor and bracketry from a member here.
Waiting for the new condenser to get here today (along with a few fittings and new drier).

Going to get it all here and make sure I've got all the necessary fittings (still need some service ports).

Weekend will probably be install of the new arm rests and cups (yeah, they aren't the right tan, but they'll be fine for now) and the removal of all the old parts. If I get all that done I'll do start the condenser install/bracketry so that I can make sure that my hoses/tubings can be done easily without kinks. Then work back to the condenser and it's brackets. I got ones for either side of the engine! So we'll see which looks to be the better fit for what I've got (aka the Slowleak passenger vs the jaxgtc drivers side). So just in case I can't make the condenser work in one direction I have the option of the other without routing the hoses completely around the bay.

If by some miracle I get all that done, I'll grab the last few fittings and hoses from the parts house and start getting those cut/crimped/together during the weeknights and maybe (if I can get the loaner tools) recharge the newly built system in a few weeks.
 

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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
New condenser, drier and some fittings came in this afternoon.

As I’m sitting here thinking about the connections/fittings and the parts I have:

Am I overlooking O-rings? All the fittings I have are bare; so I’m assuming I need to get some refrigerat specific ones for all my lines, right?

Since I’ll be replacing the lines and most fittings I haven’t bought any and most fittings don’t come with them, yet they are out there and part of most “universal” hose packages. So I’m going to imagine they’re necessary.

Jut a thought.
 

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Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,732
Loc.
Georgia
My fittings came with some thin green o-rings. There is a large one and a smaller one. I don’t know if they are made specifically for use with refrigerant or not.
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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
That is what I was referring to, but mine did not include any rings.
Easy solution.
Gina get the last fittings and hoses anyways; so a sampler box of rings shouldn’t be more than $10?
 
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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
Info dump as normal for me so I can refer back later.

Prepping to build my 4 hoses means my page of notes reads like:

Hose 1: (lower condenser to drier). 1.5' of #6 barrier hose with #6 w/90deg to a 3/8" fitting.
Hose 2: (drier to expansion valve). 4.5' of #6 barrier hose with 3/8" to #6 w/90deg.
Hose 3: (Compressor discharge to upper condenser). 1.5' of #8 barrier hose with #8 w/90deg&port to #8 w/90deg.
Hose 4: (Evaporator to compressor suction). 6' of #10 barrier hose with #10 w/90deg to #10 w/90deg&port

So with the stuff above and a little verification to go (need to double check the evap and expansion valve sizes and angles); my new list of needs is:
(1) #8 w/90&port
(1) #10 w/90&port
(2) 3/8" fittings for the drier (#6 straight barbs?)
(1) Expansion valve fitting (#6 w/90)
(1) Evap fitting (#10 w/90)
An O-ring kit for all the above. Looks like I'll need some 5-10, 10-15, 15-20, 15-25; so a kit/universal box for $10 will get me to the end.

Let me know if y'all think I'm missing something or overlooking or headed in a bad direction.
 
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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
Two steps forward, one step back.

Got all the parts, was going to start removing the old hoses aaaaaaaaaaaaaand nope.
The hoses are on there.
I felt like I was bending the copper (or about to).

So, well, I’m replacing them all and I didn’t want to remove the unit, but I don’t want to break anything. So out come the pvc pipe cutters and through the hoses I go. Pulled the unit out and I guess I can now vacuum behind it too.

Any thoughts on how to get these guys to budge? I guess I’ll shoot some on blaster on the two fittings tonight, but it’s looking like I’ll need to double wrench them off?
 

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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
Nope. They aren’t budging.
Luckily I cut them long and looks like I’ll just order the appropriate splices and leave these sealed up.
I’ve checked and they still hold pressure.
I’d like to replace the seals and all, but I can’t get a second wrench in a good spot because of the expansion valve so there’s not a way to anchor the second wrench.
 
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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
Got everything out but the compressor and stopped as I’m not sure I’d have enough time to get it off.
 

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dholder

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May 24, 2012
Messages
227
Great info you are assembling here. Just a thank you, because it will help me in the future.
 
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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
Great info you are assembling here. Just a thank you, because it will help me in the future.

No worries, bud.
I've stolen enough info from people here over the years; I generally want/try to pay it back.

And searching around I couldn't really find what I was looking for; so I'll write it for myself. I make a lot of templates/playbooks/flow charts for work so this is just an extension of that.
 
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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
OK, since I got that email notification and I'm here so I'll update to today.

I've ordered all my fittings, clamps, orings.
I've bought the new barrier hoses (which was more expensive than I was expecting) and some pag 100 w/dye.

Updated hoses (as I couldn't remove the evap fittings w/o damage)!
Hose 1: (lower condenser to drier). 4' of #6 barrier hose with #6 w/90deg to a 3/8" fitting.
Hose 2: (drier to expansion valve). 4' of #6 barrier hose with 3/8" to #6 splice.
Hose 3: (Compressor discharge to upper condenser). 1.5' of #8 barrier hose with #8 w/90deg&port to #8 w/90deg.
Hose 4: (Evaporator to compressor suction). 8' of #10 barrier hose with #10 splice to #10 w/90deg&port

Right now this weeks plan is to change out the oil in the compressor (I've got the mfg info calling for 210cc (7.1oz)) and as the fittings arrive I'll put together the condenser ends.

Current order of things (time permitting) on the weekend:
1. Install the new condenser. I've pulled the old one and installed the brackets on the new one, but I'll need to re-drill the mounting holes (or use self tapping screws) on the core support. To get it in I'll loosen/partially remove the radiator to keep from hitting the fins; so this will add a fair amount of time and since I daily drive her, I can't have operating necessary items apart/off for long since my garage time can end at a moments notice.
2. Remove old compressor. Looks like I'll have to pull a lot of the front end? I got under and looked and can see the 4 mounting bolts, but I'm not sure I can get a wrench up to one of them to get it off/loose.
3. Install change over bracketry.
4. Install the new drier.
5. Install the compressor and spend the necessary time to get the belt/pulleys to line up right. Of course this could be a 30 minute to 6 hour step, but luckily it can be done in spurts over week nights after the kids are in bed.
6. Install new firewall grommets and Hose #2 (leaving one side of drier capped) and #4. And make sure lines are sealed/at firewall.
7. Install remaining Hose #1 and #3 inside engine bay.
8. Hook up air compressor and check for leaks/whistles/pressure loss.

After all that gets done, I'll rent a vacuum pump and lines again and go through that (hopefully final) process of evacuation and charging the system.

And yes, I will add 2oz of oil in before the first refrigerant to compensate for the system loss due to the new lines and condenser. So I'll have approx 9oz of pag oil in the system as a whole when I begin the charge.

Hopefully I can get back to the 44F air I was blowing a few weeks ago now. %)
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
you have the crimp tool for the hose fittings?
Where are you buying these parts?
 
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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
you have the crimp tool for the hose fittings?
I do not have a crimper. I'm using barb style fittings and worm gear clamps (maybe double up because I bought a huge set). But they worked fine on the previous system and I've done the same style fittings on higher pressure hoses (hydraulics) and never had any discernible issues. Just got to make sure you check/retighten them once a week for a month as the rubber gives/sets/forms.

Where are you buying these parts?
I look up the parts that I want via Universal Air Parts catalog, then search ebay/amazon/various parts sites for them by number. Specifically the Female O-ring Barb listed here. The majority so far have come from Amazon parts seller Pit_Stop_Auto. They have a website, but Prime and all keeps shipping cheap.
 

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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
You guys didn't ask for more updates, but here's another!

Got the compressor out last night! Tested the fit of bracket and compressor with pictures and discussion below.

I ended up killing my battery at work (2 people who saw me holding jumpers in the parking lot told me that they 'forgot to tell you your lights were on at lunch') so I was already in the garage getting the trickle charger hooked up so I decided to have a go at it.

Well, again the clearance will be tight, but doable.
So I noticed on my bracket that the previous owner/user drilled out the mounting holes to allow the bracket to move back (as opposed to using spacers like SlowLeak). I need to wiggle it and make sure that I can get at least 3 bolts on with it slid back or should I use the original holes and change the distance via spacers for a more controllable fit? After messing with it for a minute I was having an issue getting all four lined up and perhaps that'll throw off the belt line?

I'll get out the bolts that I was told he used last time and see what happens. I was able to move the bracket back to the edge of the front mounts and clear the covers, but only by a hair.

So hopefully the next couple of night will be an oil change out/refill on the new compressor and installation of arm rests and cups (until the rest of the fittings arrive). Actually, scratch that, I'm going to wait to do the oil swap until after I get the belt alignment done in case I accidentally turn it/roll it over on my bench, I'd rather leak out the old stuff than the new.
 

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Slowleak

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
3,732
Loc.
Georgia
It’s coming along. I would move the bracket as far back as you can and install all four bolts. Then use spacers to adjust it if needed. You may not need spacers now, but if you change fan blades down the road, spacers will be much easier to add as opposed to messing with the bracket bolts. If your spacers are too thick, the clutch pulley will hit the bolt heads. My fan is a bit thicker than yours so I had a really tight fit.
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JaxLax

JaxLax

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,309
Loc.
Jacksonville, FL
Photos to follow, but I got the condenser mounted. I'm not totally happy with the amount of space between it and the radiator (almost touching) and slightly afraid that the fittings will touch... Will only matter at installation, but I reused the mounting brackets from the previous one. I may pull it back out and go with flat mounts, but I kind of like it butting on the radiator (sides, not the fins) so it can really shake?

Also got the bracket in and test fitted the compressor with spacers to a satisfactory line. Drained the compressor yesterday (there was some in there, but no where near spec) and will refill it once I get the lines installed and such.

All the fittings are here and I'm trying to get to 1 end a night. I forgot to heat the first one and just jammed it in; so now it's a battle for the last .25". But I'll get one end done on all three then spend an evening/afternoon test fitting them and cutting to length and then installing the other fittings.

There's a light out there and I can see it, but just got to keep chipping away in the 1 hour or less blocks that I can manage to sneak away for.
 
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