Cool. Then if it's not already, you can connect it in such a way as to control your ignition timing through the distributor. I believe that the model you mention below (#8479) is compatible with the EFI computer, but I'll double check when I get the chance.
...completely rebuilt with a moderate cam nothing too aggressive...
Do you have information on the cam itself? This might put to rest the questions you have about timing and firing order.
MSD intake pro billet distributor model 8479 and an MDS coil to match
I'll check, but it sounds like you do NOT need a ballast resistor in your ignition circuit. The distributor does not need it, but the ignition coils are very specific so if you have the part number for the coil, that would be helpful too. Not sure if that subject came up in this thread or another, but in case it does, we'll know how to deal with it.
I am pretty sure the timing chain is not worn since I believe a new one was insalled when we did the engine.
I would hope so. All that work and a new cam, the builder should have for sure put a new timing chain and gear set in.
I have always been iffy on the timing seems like everyone has had a hard time getting it correct since it is not the correct sequence that everyone seems to think it should be.
Got specific questions? The camshaft is what determines the firing order, and there are two distinct versions for our Ford engines. One is called the "302 firing order" which is 15426378, and the other is called the "351/HO" firing order, which is 13726548.
From the factory, all 351W engines use the 351 order. But the 302/5.0 engines used the 302 order in earlier years, but switched to the 351 order in about '81 or so. There were some carry-overs for a couple of years, but eventually all of them were running the 13726548 order.
But it's all up to the cam, so once the cam has been changed it could go either way. This is why having the "cam card" with all of it's pertinent info is a really good thing.
But in lieu of that, a part number and brand name for the cam will usually get you what you need.
Of course, there is a manual test too, that can be used to test what you have in the engine. It has been described here many times and comes in quite handy whenever there is doubt.
Where things really get tricky with our Fords is when a new harmonic damper is installed. Unfortunately the different manufacturers are not all that diligent in keeping track of how the different versions of the timing marks are placed. Maybe this is one of the reasons that some have had trouble with getting your engine timed. It's a VERY common problem with engines once they're no longer factory. Putting the wrong damper on, even if it was in the correct box, means that your timing pointer will never line up properly with the timing marks on the damper ring. The only way to know what the engine is timed at under those circumstances is to re-find TDC on #1 cylinder and then make your own marks on the damper to line up with the particular pointer on your particular engine.
Mr Gasket makes a very handy product for this called "timing tape" which is basically just a bit of tape with all the timing marks printed on it that you stick on the circumference of the damper. Very handy stuff that.
I do not know what a timing curve is
That refers to precisely where the distributor's timing advance mechanisms (mechanical and vacuum) start and end their adjustments in the engines rpm range, and by how much they alter the timing for a given circumstance.
I'm sure there is a very simple explanation that would have taken less than 10 words. But I don't talk that way!
Basically though, your timing "curve" is what you would see on an X and Y chart showing engine speed vs ignition timing in degrees BTDC (before top-dead-center) or ATDC (after top-dead-center) as measured at the number #1 spark cylinder.
So if your static timing was set at say, 10° BTDC, that's where the chart would start. As engine speed increases and the bob-weights and possibly engine vacuum start to pull on the distributor's mechanism, you would see the line rise up to typically 35 to 40 degrees and maybe more, at the top of the chart.
Sorry... I got carried away there trying to describe something that's better seen than verbalized.;D
I have few more questions what is this round thing by my battery and what does it do since starter runs into along with the alternator I believe
That's a very important character in Ford lore with vehicles of this vintage.
As Skiddy said it's the starter relay. Most commonly referred to (erroneously) as the "solenoid" but that's what most people know it as, so even the manufacturers put that on the labels in many cases.
It's basically a very heavy duty "remote switch" for your starter. When you turn the key to START this energizes and sends power to the starter motor. The relay basically just takes most of the load so the starter's heavy drain does not wear out the ignition switch in the dash too soon.
But it's also a very convenient spot to put more wires, as you can see!
The battery gets it's charge from the wire running to the alternator, and the rest of the vehicle's accessories get battery power through the wires connected there.
While they can and do wear out, a good original one can literally last the life of the vehicle sometimes. Not as often anymore of course, with the crap we get now, but I bet there are some Fords running their original starter relays.
Of course, there are also plenty of them that "only" lasted 10 or 20 years or so, and have already been replaced.
Ford changed the design of the starter to incorporate a piggy-backed solenoid on the starter, but as far as I know has continued to use these relays (of various designs) to this day.
Hope that helps bridge some gaps in the old knowledge.
Paul