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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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HA!!

You might be getting an email in Excel from me... : )
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here's making it fit.... missing some fancy equipment but nothing an 8# sledge can't fix... 22 yrs of swinging a maul for wood heat w/o any backup and the old sledge feels like a glove on my hand and does the job nicely-just substituted a 3/4" drive socket for a splitting wedge!
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Dialed in 6 deg of caster
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Door striker post repair, what were those FORD engineers thinking when they designed this disaster? Three separate pcs of sheet metal that all come together at the bottom w/o a drain and the top is open for dirt, water, leaves and debris to enter...hmmm, let's buy some "Auto-body repair shop" stocks/shares and become millionaires !! : )
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Door post work is done...

Floors under the seats are going to be lowered 2" :

- easier access
- safety for head clearance to cage
- better windshield visibility
- drivers seat goes down 2"
- pass seat floor goes up 2"

floors even on both sides opens up exhaust routing possibilities


1st pic shows left over sand from all the SOB's, Unevent's, and RoundUp's from '98 till now! lol
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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ORI brackets and fitment pics

16" ORI
- designing for 6" up travel with as low COG as possible with stock frame-looks like 2 1/2" lift is the lowest no matter where you center the diff.
- 65" WMS
- 40" tires REALLY makes fitment and full stuff/articulation an engineering fitment nightmare!! lol

Pics-

Angle gauge shows vert frt to back and 5deg leaning in at top- recommended by several incl ORI tech

Upper mount

misalignment bushings for the lower mount are narrowed to 1 1/2" from stock ORI 1.6"

I literally have appr 1/2" clearance to the WH ProFlo hood...tight

Hydroboost and m/c will need to be moved again farther to the drivers side to clear the ORI strut --- I could have leaned the strut in another 10 degrees to clear the m/c BUT I'm really trying to get the most out of them and compromising effectiveness by leaning them so much isn't worth it to me...I will move anything I need to make them work as effective as possible... so the hydroboost for sure and possibly rotate the upper EFI plenum 180 degrees so...

Like the air intake tube...where's it going to go... I'm hoping to incorporate it into the hood for cold air intake...but for this fall it has to fit somewhere...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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More pics...

- I need to form a cross brace over the engine to connect the hoops as they are 20" above the frame...lot of leverage there...I might also tie in a short diagonal on each from the frame up for more support depending on clearance issues... the outside of each frame rail was stiffened with flat bar on the outside... I would have to look but I think I'm up to over 83 individual holes 5/16" or larger (all drilled= -no rust) from bumper to bumper...I filled over 70+ holes from the front seats back... that's a LOT of holes!

The first pic shows how I adjust the pitman arm so it now has a 10 degree angle towards the passenger side. This was needed because when you move the pitman arm from normally facing backwards and now it is pointing forward, the factory designed angle for the tie rod is now countering the angle built in from the factory so you will have MAJOR issues if you don't fix this.

-
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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You can see on the angle gauge that I now have the pitman arm angle tilting the correct direction as I am reversing my 4x4x2 box and turning it back into a "stock but ported " '79 F150/Bronco box as the arm is facing forward since the box is mounted appr 10" towards the rear from where I had it mounted "into" the frt body mount before... just barely clears everything...so far!

Will be gusseting the weak link of the Dana 60 before I bolt everything in place...check this out!!

https://www.rydelfab.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52

This is the weakest point of a Dana 60 front end. The Ford knuckle is by far the weakest of the 3... GM, Dodge, Ford. This DYI kit definitely strengthens the knuckle area...
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here's a pic at full stuff with the ORI's in place

Fender at ride height w/o a flare

Here showing amount of 40x13.5x17" MTR sticking out from the fender w/o flare

Outside tire to tire is app 78 1/2". Trailer is 80" inside fenders...

Raceline Monster alum. beadlocks with 5" BS
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Starting to make "another" rear axle upper 4 link mount...here's a mock up for height...

The first pic is my original (warped) housing... it was replaced and the brace was much too high so I had to come up with something else...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Starting to make "another" rear axle upper 4 link mount...here's a mock up for height...

This truss mount is too high, without it is too low...

Body mounts behind the front seats got moved back to clear the floors that were lowered...
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here's a few pics of the 4 link with PVC as mock up for length, position and fitment... but I have to redo all this on the new housing...

Looks like the new housing and D60 install will only change the rear upper and frame upper links about 1" higher for both to come out with great numbers on the 4 link calculator...
 

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nvrstuk

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So I will tack on all new mounts, check everything out then I can show pics of mounting the 14 bolt axle stub spindles into the RS9" housing, placement of the rear disc caliper brkts, etc...lots to do still... :)

Making myself a "914"... 9" housing with 14 bolt spindles.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here's a few pics of the RuffStuff (RS) 14 bolt axle spindles NO MORE Ford axle brg failures!!! Can't wait!! I've had 4, maybe 5 rear axles walk out on me due to brg failures...my local Bronco buddy who owned a repair shop in our small college town bought 5 totaled Broncos in 2 yrs when rear axle brgs failed--all but one rolled! No joke, not safe enough design for abused OLD, probably bent axle tubes waiting to fail...

The last pic shows the spindle literally bolted to the wheel and gives you an idea what the spindle end looks like that slides into the housing. Interference fit for 3 1/2" presses into the 3/8" x3 1/2" DOM axle shaft tubing.
 

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nvrstuk

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Here's some heat on the housing to press the spindles in... MEAT that's what these spindles are...not a typical weld on a flange to a stock housing setup here! No bending here!!!

Pic showing the RuffStuff inner housing seal...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I turned the spindles down to .003" interference fit for the RS housing.
The spindles allow me to run 14 bolt hubs that share a brg with my D60 hubs up front. The ONLY part that isn't off the shelf is the seal and it's an industrial application and is avail from NAPA also.

I am running seals inside the housing (similar to D60 up front) right at the end of the tubes nearest the diff which will allow me to not have to rely on the hub seals and I will pack the wheel brgs with grease just like you do for the front end... these aren't typical seals tho as I will refer to that fiasco with RuffStuff later...
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Brakes.... '79-87 K20

Good for many GM cars, multiple applications

Same rotors and calipers front and rear

Brakes- always needed, often ignored!

I've run 4 wheel discs for over 20 yrs now...love 'me for snowy, wet wheeling... on this update I went with K20 rotors and calipers that literally bolt on to the D60 and the 14 bolt hubs with little more than a weld on bracket...probably the most common caliper and rotors out there as they fit at least a dozen applications and save 30#'s over stock D60 brakes but are a bit heavier than the Exploder rear disc parking brake setup I've run the past 12 yrs or more...
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Next-

the week long search for wheel studs... wow, I can negotiate that Dorman site fast now! The web site wouldn't give every dimension I needed so I would get 2 or 3 of the dimensions I needed and then order in the wheel stud and the other "must-have" dimensions wouldn't work for my application... what a hassle! I'd order in about 4-5 different ones every day or two ...

-the key here was to make sure the stud pressed into the hub, not the rotor (can't be sloppy tho)

-that it pressed in far enough and with enough tolerance so the stud wouldn't ever twist when taking lug nut off

- the knurled part of the stud would be on the shank in the position where it would press into the hub... (sounds easy)!!

- long enough totals thread length

- correct diameter...this doesn't seem like a big deal but the early D60 Hi Pinion Snowfighter model from '78-79 run 1/2" wheel studs so I needed them to match front and rear.

- not a reduced shank immediately after the knurling (this was the problem on many "first glance this should fit wheel studs")

I found one, and only 1 that would work to what I felt was needed. I drilled the hubs out to 39/64" (will double check) to make sure the stud pressed in. I really didn't want to have to do any drilling or having to run a taper thru any part just so it would be more OTC but heck, if I'm needing to buy a new wheel hub, it won't be 30 extra minutes to run a drill bit thru the holes so I can press or pound the studs in.

I'll post Dormann part #'s for front D60 and rear 14 bolt Chev ...

Misc Chev rotor info:
Wheel flange is .520"
thickness is .385"
Hole in wheel hub is .574, drilled to .625"
Rotor stud hole is .655"
 
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