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Input On Rust Repair

simmsjeremy

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
392
Loc.
Cherry Point
Gentlemen,
I've begun replacing sheet metal and wanted to get yalls opinion on some things that I should or should not be doing. I've decided to start on my passenger side with the floor pans. I ordered my floor pans from the Graveyard. For reference to anyone who wants to order from them it was a good experience. Floor pans arrived quickly shipping was affordable and packaging was good. Moving on. One of the primary threads I am following is one that was posted by jonmelton in 2014. I plan to pretty much mirroring his process on my own. So here are the details and some questions. The floor pans I am using are 18 gauge, I plan on screwing them down just as done in the before mentioned thread and then going back and plug welding each hole. I will be using a millermatic 140 auto set gasless with .30 welding wire and have zero experience with welding. Here are the questions. Do you see anything wrong that I have done in the photos? What weld through primer do yall recommend, as well as seam sealer? I have been able to find POR-15 in a rubberized undercoating aerosol can on Amazon which runs for about 20 bucks a can. Has anyone had any experience with this product? Same thing with the POR-15 49013 patch/seam sealer. Would this be a good product to use for my seam sealer? Lastly Take a look at the kick panel. in the lower right corner that hole runs through three pieces the rocker, the kick panel, and the post. With me being noob to this and having no experience with welding, how would you best tackle that and if its a matter of replacing all the pieces which piece should I start with first?
 

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Attac

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Messages
865
If your kick panel is that bad where you can see it, I will bet it is bad where it is sandwiched in between the inner rocker and the door jamb. I would look really well there before putting the new floorboards in. Also if you have never welded before then I suggest hooking a gas bottle up and getting some .023 wire. You will get much better welds with gas compared to using flux core wire. Also you can burn cooler with gas and won't blow through the metal as bad. Practice on some same thickness scrap before starting on your good panels.
Migs is pretty easy to weld with so I'm sure you will be fine but if you use the wrong wire / power combo you will make yourself miserable.
Chuck
 

Rocko1012

Full Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2016
Messages
225
Rocker

See attached Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yru4a0LkOWo
I second using Gas and .023 hard wire. I initially was using HF machine with flux .030 wire. I kept blowing threw metal. Purchased Hotard machine and gas and it works great. Use the weld through primer on two pieces that are sandwiched together. Seam Sealer will be applied prior to paint/bed liner and primed. 3M 08405
 
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simmsjeremy

simmsjeremy

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
392
Loc.
Cherry Point
Thanks for the input guys. Right now I am working to remove the PS fender to expose the kick panel, post, and rocker panels. Once there I will assess how to move forward. Its for certain that the post and the kick will have to be replaced. not sure on the inner rocker. I realized very quickly that once I started this I would dive deep down the rust repair hole. I am now attempting to come up with a plan of action to start on the passenger and work may way forward, across and back down the driver side. The cowl, windshield mounting base, WS frame are all gone as well as the tops of the firewalls. Fingers crossed that the aprons are ok.
So talking welders. I don't have much of a budget for a welder. The Miller I am using isn't even mine. I am borrowing it from a co worker. I currently have a 90 amp HB fluxcore welder. So what should I be looking for? I would really like to find a gas welder as you all recommended. Budget would be $500 something that would be easy to use for someone with no experience. An auto set feature like the one on the Millermatic 125 would be awesome.
 

jmangi62

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
2,469
Looks like you're doing pretty good to me,all I can say is once you start cutting look out, it's like opening a can of worms,it snowballs pretty fast. Go with 3m Seam sealer and follow the tips for welding that were mentioned and you should be fine. Oh one thing I used instead of the por was a product advertised on our classic Broncos page " Rust Bullet ". It worked out great for me, I like it cuz it's not UV sensitive like por. You can paint over it too if you want,which I did with some " Chassis Black". But good luck and stay in touch with the guys here and you'll be fine. Jim ;)
 

Attac

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Messages
865
Thanks for the input guys. Right now I am working to remove the PS fender to expose the kick panel, post, and rocker panels. Once there I will assess how to move forward. Its for certain that the post and the kick will have to be replaced. not sure on the inner rocker. I realized very quickly that once I started this I would dive deep down the rust repair hole. I am now attempting to come up with a plan of action to start on the passenger and work may way forward, across and back down the driver side. The cowl, windshield mounting base, WS frame are all gone as well as the tops of the firewalls. Fingers crossed that the aprons are ok.
So talking welders. I don't have much of a budget for a welder. The Miller I am using isn't even mine. I am borrowing it from a co worker. I currently have a 90 amp HB fluxcore welder. So what should I be looking for? I would really like to find a gas welder as you all recommended. Budget would be $500 something that would be easy to use for someone with no experience. An auto set feature like the one on the Millermatic 125 would be awesome.
You mentioned that you will be using a Millermatic 140 autoset. That welder takes gas also. Look on the back of it and you will see a brass fitting. That is where you connect a regulator and hose so that you can run gas. You will want 75/25 gas. 75%Co2 and 25%Argon.
Get a bottle of gas and a regulator and a spool of .023 wire and you will be all set. The tube style regulator is better than the dial type.
I will tell you to weld a few scraps without the gas and using the wire you have in it now, then put the other wire in and hook up the gas and weld on the same scrap pieces again. You will immediately see the difference and how much better the welds will look. Also it will be much easier to weld with.
If you are going to buy a welder Any of the Miller/Hobart lower line stuff is fine. I would look for one with more power settings. It is a big difference welding 20ga compaired to 16ga steel and additional power settings makes it easier to set machine to your substrate
Chuck
 
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simmsjeremy

simmsjeremy

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
392
Loc.
Cherry Point
Since my last post, I have managed to remove the motor and trans and pull off the front fender. So before I remove anything else what should I be doing next? I have purchased the below-listed parts and just unsure as to what should be removed first and what should be installed first and last.

Ordered Replacement Panels
-Rocker Panel
-Inner kick panel
-Font door post
-Inner fender apron
-Floor pans

Still, need to order
-PS firewall
-PS wheel well tub
-PS core support
 

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
Or as Captain Mallory would have said... "You're in it now. Up to your ears!"
Or words to that effect.;D

Paul
 
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simmsjeremy

simmsjeremy

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
392
Loc.
Cherry Point
You, gentlemen, are both right on your statements. I managed to pull off the outer rocker panel today. in doing so kinda revealed the way forward. With the outer rocker removed it opens up the front door post, inner rocker, and kick panel. This should make it easier for me to remove the door post and kick panel.

When doing the measuring the distance between the front and rear door post before removing anything I was getting 38 13/16 should I go off this measurement when reinstalling or should I use the 39 inches commonly referenced as the proper distance?

I'd like to paint the new panels before installing them. Besides not painting the matting points where it will be welded is there anything else I should be mindful of.
 

rspd505

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
May 3, 2016
Messages
144
Loc.
Rising Sun, IN
I used this as a reference. Every Bronco is a little different. If your door fits properly before you started, take as many measurements as you can. write them down in a safe place that you can find them later. Mine was so bad it was pretty much like starting over.
 

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KeithKinPhx

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2017
Messages
444
Watch the videos from Matt’s Garage. He is welding up a whole new tub. See what he doing right and wrong.

My advice:
1. Gas rather than flux core.
2. Replace one panel at a time if you can. If you get too many parts moving around alignment becomes an issue.
 

Skytrooper15

Full Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
216
Loc.
Tuscaloosa,Al
Gunny a big help for you may be go to Dennis Carpenter Ford parts and download their online catalog its also free.It shows all of the parts you need to replace and what fits where.They are located in Charlotte,NC close to the speedway.I know you will finish this project because one thing I always admired about the Marine Corp is ya'll are too stubborn to quit and you never give up on a mission.Hope this helps
 

rjrobin2002

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 13, 2007
Messages
2,662
I would not attempt door post replacement with your experience level, plus your door post looks good from your picture. Bad ones have rot visible for the lower 12-16 inches.

Make you some patch panels for that kick panel and inner fender rust and move on.
 
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rydog1130

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 19, 2014
Messages
4,019
you'll need your top to help with squaring your doors if your replacing the post. It's probably the hardest aspect of restoring a bronco. Also, I have the same welder, don't be cheap get a tank of argon/c02 you'll be happy. The autoset feature is fantastic and I love this little welder.
 

LilMixedUp

Full Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2016
Messages
161
Loc.
Bonaire
I made a jig using the rear door striker holes and the hard top attachment holes, then using the front hinge attachment holes. Bolted my jig into place and removed the front post. attached new post to jig tightening it into place and worked from there. Used 1/4 inch 2x2 angle for my jig.
 

rjrobin2002

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 13, 2007
Messages
2,662
I do like the jig idea. If you remove your door from a weak door post it returns to where its suppose to be. So make a jig with the door off and reinstall the new post bolting it to the jig, clamp, screw in place, test fit, and then start welding.

A big issue with the door post is getting the face where the door hinge bolts set at the right angle, so the jig would need to bolt to all 6 door hinge bolts at the front, have 2 legs that touch the floor board, and bolt to the door jamb also with maybe a few sheetmetal screw and weld the holes up after done.
 

LilMixedUp

Full Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2016
Messages
161
Loc.
Bonaire
sorry, no pictures... I've been doing this log before I found out about the forum. l can't take pictures yet... It's on the short list of things to do. Become a contributor and get new phone so I can start documenting... I'm still old school :cool:
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,345
I've been taking pictures of stuff my whole adult life. But to this day I can never remember to break my focus on the job and actually step back and take some!
Not that I'm actually "focused" mind you. Just that I'm concentrating on not making mistakes and only think to take pics of the process when it's been done for a few months.%)

But if you do find any useful (or just fun) pics of what you were doing, you can send them to one of us (I'm happy to do it) and we can post them up for you until such time as you get your contributor status.

Paul
 
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