Cheaper EFI?

BRONCOchild · Feb 11, 2019

At this juncture, what would be a cheaper EFI alternative: Mustang 5.0 EFI or FITech/Holley Sniper/Elderbrock EFI?

With the bolt on FI, I know it all comes in a package and maybe minor alterations will be done, with the possibility of having to buy other items.

However, with the Mustang 5.0, what else would I need? I plan on buying the whole Mustang, if I go that route. It's an 89, 5.0 automatic. I know removal of both engines will need to take place, but that's as far as my knowledge will go. I will have a reputable mechanic, one that deals with Broncos in Southern California, do the work.

School me?!?!

73azbronco · Feb 11, 2019

Stay with the one car sourced mustang, and should work fine.

The issue is, with vehicles as parts sources that old, at least out West in the heat, everything dry rots. electrical connections, injectors, fuel lines, etc. In some cases you will be chasing issues like this is you swap it over, unless you plug and play the entire motor.

Is the vehicle running fine now? Then it should run fine.

Be real gentle with electrical harness parts.

If you go any other route, you'll be into it for $1,000 up to $2,500 depending what you get.

Timmy390 · Feb 11, 2019

Because I'm a hands on kind of guy I would go the Explorer route vs. the older stang but that's just me. I went 95 Stang for a host of hard headed reasons.

For someone who plans to buy parts and have someone else put it one......I would go with FiTech 31003 $1000 and I think it comes with everything needed......

I haven't done a FiTech yet but hope to in the future. Plan to put it on on 69 Stang if I ever stop acquiring other projects to play with.

Tim

rguest3 · Feb 11, 2019

FiTech makes a 400HP version that is under $900. You are going to need a 4-Barrel Intake for the Throttle Body Intake if you have not already done so.

FAST makes a 2-Barrel version Throttle Body EFI that will fit the Original Bronco intake.

ALL EFI systems will have to have the Fuel system upgraded.

Broncobowsher · Feb 11, 2019

I'm doing a Holley Sniper in a couple of weeks. But it is for a different engine that doesn't have a good factory EFI option.

I have been a fan of OEM fuel injection for years. You are looking at stuff from the early 90s that is over 25 years old now. It still works, you can still buy the parts to keep it running. Aftermarket EFI of that same time period is total junk today.

But the quality of the aftermarket EFI is so much better today. Self learning and all. The vintage EFI was an non-feedback analog system. 5 knobs on a box, play with them, sacrifice a lamb, and it might run good that afternoon. The new stuff actually has a chance at working.

Now in 20 years, you are looking at 45-50 year old OEM EFI parts. The current aftermarket EFI will probably be out of date as well, but there will be another more advanced one.

I would look at the newer Explorer as a donor over the Mustang as a donor for OEM EFI.

surfer-b · Feb 11, 2019

Factory EFI system all the way. I have done, these systems. The 89-93 5.0 mustang, good system easy conversion espec if you have the complete car. 96-01 explorer, another great system a little more involved than the stang but a better system because of the later tech and the front dress setup, also better if you purchase complete explorer/mountaineer. Affordable FI system, I have installed one of these setups about 6 yrs ago, no problems and uses all Factory GM parts including the throttle body. The FI-Tech, worst of all and can not recommend, its been nothing but trouble from day one, never has ran the way it should, however I have herd of some that claim they are having good luck with this system but far more that are having trouble. So after all that I would only recommend the Stang or Explorer factory systems.

WheelHorse · Feb 11, 2019

OEM will have age as an issue (check capacitors in the EEC). Plan on all new quality sensors.

Harness may have connectors break as well.

If I lived in a mountainous region, I'd go with a new EFI harness, Pimp, all OEM sensors and run it for many miles.

Trying to go cheap with 30 year old electronics, never winds up cheap.

KyleQ · Feb 11, 2019

I've done both and they both run sweet.

FiTech does make a 2bbl option if you want it as well.

The factory stuff is locked behind a tuner if you want to make engine changes and is fairly large in the packaging department with the intake manifold setup. It does run AWESOME as it has the full factory tuning and will idle and cruise and WOT perfectly (stock) just like any road car should.

The FiTech stuff gets you that carb size and look with the ability to be able to tune any modifications you may make to the engine on the handheld or a pc. It is FAR simpler than the EECIV stuff from the Mustang in every way, there is a fraction of the wiring.

The fuel systems between them have identical requirements -

I used to run a Mustang setup on a 351W with GT40 heads and had EFIGuy repair and tune it for me. I then had a 351W built with much more compression and lots of cam and didn't want to deal with the injector, MAF, TB and intake upgrades in addition to needing a fairly good tune to go with it (mind you, I had ALL of the parts on hand and STILL decided to go FiTech).

I would say if you plan on keeping it somewhat mild the Mustang stuff will work perfectly. If you want to build something or get more involved in the tuning side then the FiTech is your answer. There is always the Explorer route to go down as well, but I would say that it is more involved than either of these options, but does have it's own unique benefits as well.

BRONCOchild · Feb 11, 2019

I guess a better question would be, should I go with one of the FI systems out there? Instead of doing a whole engine swap.

"Bertha" is running 302, auto, dual exhaust, with 4bbl carb with stock fuel tanks.

Broncobowsher · Feb 11, 2019

What condition is the engine in? If it is tired and burning oil, EFI can't fix that.

For me I have an OK running carb. Not dialed in perfect, but runs good. Doesn't bog, blow black smoke, or other glaring carb issues. About to do EFI and see how that changes. I am expecting better cold starts. Better hot starts (no more flooded boiling carbs after coming to a stop). More stable idle (cold start to fully warmed, A/C on/off, park or drive). With better timing control (after I let the EFI control it) slight improvement in power and economy. But with it running in a fairly good state of tune right now I am not expecting huge gains.

markw · Feb 11, 2019

Well I have both systems too. Reworked RJM harness, EFI Guy tune on the EECIV and converted to EDIS8 on a 408. Runs awesome. Complication factor 10 out of 10. Also a Fitech 400 hp on a 289. Other than the fact we can't get it to run it's been really easy but pretty useless. However that wouldn't keep me from recommending that sort of system for you setup. I'd put in a 23 gal FI rear tank and return line.

bronconut73 · Feb 11, 2019

Timmy390 said:
Because I'm a hands on kind of guy I would go the Explorer route vs. the older stang but that's just me. I went 95 Stang for a host of hard headed reasons.

For someone who plans to buy parts and have someone else put it one......I would go with FiTech 31003 $1000 and I think it comes with everything needed......

I haven't done a FiTech yet but hope to in the future. Plan to put it on on 69 Stang if I ever stop acquiring other projects to play with.

Tim

That Stang deserves a Holley sniper

Timmy390 · Feb 11, 2019

bronconut73 said:
That Stang deserves a Holley sniper

It deserves EFI for sure but I'm hesitant to start the project. I have a true dual plane intake on it (E-Brock RPM) and in the early days these T-body EFI systems were all having issues with that. I don't recall what the sensor was but it couldn't read correctly due to the dual plan blocking off one side of the injectors. Couldn't get a true reading on flow. Need to do some reading and see if that's still an issue.

The fix was to cut the plane down. Hard for me to start grinding on a $400 intake not to mention taking off an FE intake is a PAIN IN THE BACKSIDE. The pushrods go through the intake on FE's so it's a dang near complete top end tear down.

Tim

OX1 · Feb 11, 2019

I have multiple 5.0 EFI setups all over the attic.
I'm still going sniper.

I want a big old style air cleaner and don't want to run a maf.
I might even pipe the air into the pass cowl air intake box, making
a mini snorkel out of it.

Also like the fact Sniper has a guage dispaly. If it had
oil pressure input, I'd ditch my 3 guage panel under the dash.
Need piggy back chip to read/datalog parameters off an EEC-IV.

onebadd73 · Feb 12, 2019

Another valid option is purchasing a Ford Explorer with a 5.0. I bought a used 1998 Ford Explorer Limited AWD with 124000 miles for $600.00 last year off of Craigslist. You get the all the GT40 stuff plus a 4R70w trans if your looking to have overdrive if you don't have it all ready.I see them pop up for cheap every now and then.

sprdv1 · Feb 12, 2019

onebadd73 said:
Another valid option is purchasing a Ford Explorer with a 5.0. I bought a used 1998 Ford Explorer Limited AWD with 124000 miles for $600.00 last year off of Craigslist. You get the all the GT40 stuff plus a 4R70w trans if your looking to have overdrive if you don't have it all ready.I see them pop up for cheap every now and then.

would be the way I might explore..

jmangi62 · Feb 12, 2019

BRONCOchild said:
I guess a better question would be, should I go with one of the FI systems out there? Instead of doing a whole engine swap.

"Bertha" is running 302, auto, dual exhaust, with 4bbl carb with stock fuel tanks.

Looks like you answered your own question there. Just get the sniper/ fitech. You're engine can be tuned to run pretty good. No pulling engines out and all that headache. Just be sure to get a good tank and return system.

EFI Guy · Feb 13, 2019

My completely unbiased opinion:

Your choices are cheap, easy, and good. The catch is you only get to pick 2 of the 3.

If you don't mind DIY to save some money, have space to tear apart a cheap donor, time to deal with parting the rest out, and decent mechanical ability...Then you could snag a cheap donor Explorer and go the cheap and good route.

I had someone tell me recently that he was into the Explorer motor and 4r70w swap for $60 after selling his old stuff and parting out the Explorer. I'm sure this is not the norm as all Bronco projects snowball, but have no doubt that it is doable.

Don't have the time or space to hunt down a donor? Live in an HOA community? Feel dirty going through junkyards? Lack the mechanical ability or desire to learn new things? Need it done in a weekend?
Then go for cheap and easy, and get a bolt on kit.

I would go with the more expensive of those bolt on options if my wrenches ever swung that way (and keep a carb onboard, just in case).

OX1 · Feb 13, 2019

EFI Guy said:
My completely unbiased opinion:

Your choices are cheap, easy, and good. The catch is you only get to pick 2 of the 3.

If you don't mind DIY to save some money, have space to tear apart a cheap donor, time to deal with parting the rest out, and decent mechanical ability...Then you could snag a cheap donor Explorer and go the cheap and good route.

I had someone tell me recently that he was into the Explorer motor and 4r70w swap for $60 after selling his old stuff and parting out the Explorer. I'm sure this is not the norm as all Bronco projects snowball, but have no doubt that it is doable.

Don't have the time or space to hunt down a donor? Live in an HOA community? Feel dirty going through junkyards? Lack the mechanical ability or desire to learn new things? Need it done in a weekend?
Then go for cheap and easy, and get a bolt on kit.

I would go with the more expensive of those bolt on options if my wrenches ever swung that way (and keep a carb onboard, just in case).

I assume when going to an explorer setup that you would tune, it has to be EEC-V, yes? Is there a way to use original motor, with EEC-IV distr lets say, (or add crank trigger to an original motor) and still use EEC-V?

EB70 · Feb 13, 2019

I do like the idea of the bolt on EFI and run a few wires etc. What I struggle with is with aftermarket not getting parts on the off chance I need them.

I don't doubt that the OEM is good. Real good. I like the idea of getting parts most anywhere and I am the kind of guy to store extra pieces-like a whole Explorer!

The issue with that is that there is a lot of wires and complexity. I throughly and completely dismantled a complete 5.0 Explorer, a 2000 model. Took the doors apart etc.

I've been around cars for a long time, and I was astounded at the sheer number of wires. It is a doable swap and there is a lot of support.

Probably the direction I would go is OEM, but still thinking myself.

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