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No Fan, dome, accessory or washer fluid power!!!

rydog1130

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Joined
Jun 19, 2014
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4,019
Ok guys I’m running a centech harness and I’m having huge issues as in NO PoWER issue. My brown heater wire has no juice, I checked fuses on everything and they are all good! I ran a direct ground to all my grounds and still no power? Is my fuse block bad?? I ran a direct lead to my heater switch and it works appropriately so I know it’s not my motor or switch. Also my power source for my washer fluid is not working. Once again everything grounded and sand thing, tester light does not indicate power at the end of the purple lead. One other issue is there are 2 orange wires connected together indicating accessory power. When the key is turned to the accessory position I have no power there as well. Do u think it’s a faulty ignition switch? The car still fires up and starts so I’m stumped. I even upgraded the ignition switch and not using the one centech included in the kit. Lastly my cigar lighter was shorting out, I think it’s got an internal short because it was still blowing a fuse without the lighter in it. I unplugged the gray wire and it stopped blowing the fuse and I tested the gray wire and it has power and doesn’t blow the fuse while being tested. Now my dome lamp is on the same fuse but lumped in with some other wires and it does not have power. There are some ground wires associated with the bundle it’s gtouped with so I will try those tomorrow!! Any other help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!!!
 

DirtDonk

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Were these items ever working?
When testing the other wires, you had the key in the RUN position, correct?
Is your Yellow charge wire behind the dash still in one piece? Or did you cut it and re-splice it after running through the ammeter loop?
You say there is no power on the Purple wire, but you say it starts. Are you talking about the Purple/Violet wire at the starter relay? That's the only one I remember off the top of my head, but if there is another one, where is it?

Is this a new install? Check the back of the fuse panel to make sure the big nuts are tight on their studs.
Is your glove box liner the standard cardboard or plastic type? Or do you have a steel one?

That's all I can think of for the moment. Definitely check those grounds and make sure that the one or two bundled ones under the dash are grounded.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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New install, no not the purple starter wire the fluid washer lead is also a purple color. I’ll check that yellow wire and these things far as I know have not worked because I’m just trying to hook them up now! Yup tried the key in every position. I will check the back of the fuse box and it is located in a new plastic box. I’ve been told also that box cannot be grounded or not mounted to metal so it’s good in the plastic box but I’ll double check it again!
 

DirtDonk

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Yep, it's fine in plastic or the stock cardboard. It's a Hot-Rod based panel meant for what back when it was designed, was pretty much the only type of glove box Broncos had.
It's ok to mount it in a steel box like the Tuffy lock box, but you have to insulate it by whatever means.
I've used thick gasket material that you buy at the store before. Also used some leather once I think, because that's what I had laying around.
So it's doable either way. You just have to make adjustments for the materials.

In a stock setup, if that Yellow wire (it's Black w/yellow from the factory) was disconnected in some way, literally nothing would work. And I mean, NOTHING in the truck.
But I'm not sure that's how it works with Centech, so it's still worth checking just in case.

Good luck. I hate tracking down oddball stuff like this.

Paul
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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ill post up some pics later....its just weird theres no power to the accessory wires and heater wires and they come out of the same bundle as the ignition wires....
 

DirtDonk

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Yeah, but I didn't want to jinx it by talking about bad splices under the taped loom!
I don't know how the Centech harness specifically is built under there, and how the splices are laid out and accomplished. But they've proven to be pretty reliable and consistent over the years. A few little issues here and there (and I had one bad ignition wire (out of the three available) once, so had to deal with that. But it was a simple matter of swapping positions in a Weatherpack connector and done. But not having power to a couple of circuits branching off of a common source does not sound encouraging.

But keep digging into it, and maybe call Centech again to see where the sources of those particular non-functioning wires are, and what they might have in common.

Paul
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Ok few photos here ...

fuse block is looking ok, no loose wires or nuts...
IMG_4750.jpg

heres the yellow wires you mentioned earlier paul... anything look funny?
IMG_4792.jpg

IMG_4793.jpg


lastly here is my ignition switch...anything weird going on there im not seeing?
IMG_4779.jpg



i ordered ect3000 which will hopefully help me track a short down with out having to unwrap the whole harness.. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/po...MI07LwlJTv2wIVkRuBCh0ItAtLEAAYAyAAEgLRpPD_BwE

let me know if you see anything funny! thanks!
 
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DirtDonk

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fuse block is looking ok, no loose wires or nuts...
View attachment 454934

Yep, looks pretty good. No heat darkening around any of the terminals either that I can see. All good signs.

heres the yellow wires you mentioned earlier paul... anything look funny?

Nothing there. But I was talking about that same wire over behind the ammeter. Does it pass through the ammeter loop? If so, then it had to be cut and re-spliced back together. That splice was what I was concerned about.
But it's probably not important either. In a stock setup if anything was wrong, then literally nothing on the truck would continue to work. Nothing!
And since all your other stuff still works, I was thinking that it might be fine, but was not sure if Centech makes any changes to that circuit to accommodate the fuse panel design.
Was basically just running down multiple paths in case something was amiss.
If there was anything wrong with it, then you'd probably have more troubles.

lastly here is my ignition switch...anything weird going on there im not seeing?
View attachment 454937

Yes. Where's the accessory wire?
Honestly, I can't remember if Centech even has one. Will have to go out and look at the back of mine to refresh my memory.
But basically, that stud coming out of the center of the switch is supposed to have a nut run down to, at the very least, hold the plastic wire strain relief/connector thingy in place. Keeps it from coming off and causing all sorts of issues.
But also, with the stock harness at least, there is a main accessory wire that's supposed to be under that missing nut. This is NOT a ground stud. It's the entire "accessory" position of the ignition switch.
When you turn the switch to ACC now, does anything work?

Also, that one lonely male connector on the side of the switch body is for the brake warning lamp. That one IS a ground in fact. Looks like maybe that one loose wire to the right in the image is supposed to be there? Hard to tell what color the wire is, but it might be.

i ordered ect3000...

Love those things!

Check out the Centech diagram for the ACC wire, and I'll look at mine to see what color it is.
I should have the diagrams saves somewhere close by too, since we were just going through them a couple of weeks ago here on the forum.
Do you have yours handy?

Paul
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Jun 19, 2014
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ok, so that ignitition switch is not the one that comes with the centech kit but is the adapter that allows you to use the original factory ignition cylinder and keys. I knew something should be on that post it just seemed odd thast there wasn't.

My accessory power leads are orange and there's two of them spliced together and the centech diagram says those can be used to power the radio etc... what's boggle is the gray wire (cigar lighter)has power but the two orange wires don't...

IMG_2590.jpg

Anyways the wires with the star and arrow both say BRK and BRAKE HAZ if I remember correctly and I already have the appropriate leads hooked up to the hazard/emergency light on the dash. I even believe we tried running a direct ground from the battery to those leads and retesting everything....

IMG_4779.jpg
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Jun 19, 2014
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Reading up on the centech kit that star wire is the brake warning lamp ground and the black wire with the the 2 green and white arrows is the ACC ground that mounts to that threaded post on the back of the ignition....now im stuck at work for 6 days until I can get to it and test it out...lol let me know what you find Paul!
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Heres the diagram...do you think the black wire with the orange star is acc post ground? I'll have to double check when I get back up north next week...

ignition diagram.jpg

IMG_4779.jpg
 

DirtDonk

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No. Re-read my #8 post. I just edited it to highlight and bold and italics and maybe should have underlined, that the stud sticking out of the back of a Ford ignition switch is NOT/NOT/NOT a ground.
Many a meltdown has happened over the years (very minor, but still frustrating) when someone puts a ground wire to that thing and hooks up the battery!

The stud is Accessory POWER.
Not ground...

Yes, it's still strange that some wires have power and others do not. And I can't figure out if anything missing from that stud could cause that problem.
But still checking... Now that I'm back from my dinner break!%)

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Ok, just looked at your ignition switch pic again and see an issue that could be the main problem.
The Black wire that is part of the 4-wire ignition connector is supposed to be attached to the center stud of the switch.
I tried to follow it in your pic but could not see at first, but then looking again I see it tucked way up there against the body. Is it screwed to the body?
If so, then in those now immortal words... "Well there's your problem right there!";);D

Find an appropriately sized nut, slide the ring terminal over the stud on the switch, nut it up and see how things work.

Paul
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Ok, just looked at your ignition switch pic again and see an issue that could be the main problem.
The Black wire that is part of the 4-wire ignition connector is supposed to be attached to the center stud of the switch.
I tried to follow it in your pic but could not see at first, but then looking again I see it tucked way up there against the body. Is it screwed to the body?
If so, then in those now immortal words... "Well there's your problem right there!";);D

Find an appropriately sized nut, slide the ring terminal over the stud on the switch, nut it up and see how things work.

Paul

Thats what I was thinking...i had a friend helping me hook this up last summer about the same time and I think he mis read the instructions which state the ignition must be grounded for the warning light to work. He took that wire and grounded it to the dash. When I get back up north next week im going to try that and see what happens! We just put those small things off because we were just tryin to get the truck to the big event. i knew i was going to be where i am now hooking up the radio, heater cables, vents etc ....so once again thank you paul!!!
 

DirtDonk

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Cool. Can't wait to hear what happens. I bet that's it though.
Not sure why Centech would think it's a good practice to make a main power supply wire in Black!

FYI, the ignition switch grounds through it's body to the metal dash it's mounted to. But in a Bronco, that's only a vague assumption as to whether the dash even has a good ground connection to the body anymore. Most don't...
So no matter what setup you're using, creating a ground jumper of your own between the dash and body is a good practice.
I had to do the same thing to the windshield frame too a couple of times. The frame is where the wipers ground, and was no longer well bonded to the rest of the body due to years of rust, paint, and loosening connections.

Can't have too many grounds. Just make sure some of them are not just power feeds of poorly chosen colors!

Paul
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Cool. Can't wait to hear what happens. I bet that's it though.
Not sure why Centech would think it's a good practice to make a main power supply wire in Black!

FYI, the ignition switch grounds through it's body to the metal dash it's mounted to. But in a Bronco, that's only a vague assumption as to whether the dash even has a good ground connection to the body anymore. Most don't...
So no matter what setup you're using, creating a ground jumper of your own between the dash and body is a good practice.
I had to do the same thing to the windshield frame too a couple of times. The frame is where the wipers ground, and was no longer well bonded to the rest of the body due to years of rust, paint, and loosening connections.

Can't have too many grounds. Just make sure some of them are not just power feeds of poorly chosen colors!

Paul

It might explain why my cigar light was/is torching fuses as well! Man I'll be happier than a pig in mud if this works...
 
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